Painting molding/belt trim

[ISTLCRUZ]

I want to freshen up the trim on my 87 Tbird. Front & rear bumpers mostly. What rattle can spray do you guys recommend and what prep work is needed? Sandpaper grade, cleaning etc... Thanks for any input
Ray

[wraithracing]

SEM spray cans.

Typical prep, clean, clean, clean, sand if needed otherwise scuff up with a Scothbrite sanding pad. Clean, Clean, Clean then spray.

A good wax/grease remover should be your first cleaning. Final clean should be using a goof Prep/Final Clean product.

I personally also like to use MEK, but if you are not experienced using it I would not recommend it for cleaning as it is nasty stuff and you can do more damage than good if not careful.

SEM trim paint should have some adhesion promoter in the can, otherwise an Adhesion Promoter spray may be a good idea. Good Luck!

[86GT2go]

I will back what Trey states; all of it.

SEM is top-quality stuff (used it for years both personally and in body shop work). Prep is 99% of the paint work, even with SEM. I have had the best luck with applying an adhesion promoter (most are MEK based anyway) and while it is still 'damp', shoot the SEM first coat on. Follow it with two more coats, progressively heavier, until even coverage is seen.

[jlehma13]

You guys aren't using primer first?

[wraithracing]

Primer is not required if the moldings are in good shape and just need a fresh coat of color. If the moldings have nicks, scratches, etc. that need to be addressed, then yes Primer would be recommended. Also if the moldings had other surface issues that needed to be sealed up and covered before top coat, then again Primer would be recommended.

More detailed recommendations can be provided with pictures of the moldings, otherwise we are just giving the basic advice. Primer is generally not required when spraying new color onto a plastic molding that is assumed to be in decent shape and is only being repainted due to cosmetic concerns.

[jlehma13]

Gotcha. My front and rear were toasty. Clean, clean, clean, sand, sand, clean, clean, then primer and paint per the instructions on the cans.

[ISTLCRUZ]

Well I had to order the SEM trim paint. Local stores were sold out or didn’t stock it. I picked up some sandpaper ( 400&600) hope that will do it as the molding isn’t bad. Have painters tape also. Will tackle it hopefully this weekend

[KevinK]

The 600 grit might be a bit too fine for the prep work. I’ll let an expert speak up on that.

[wraithracing]

Personally I generally don't go any finer than 400 grit on most refinishing stuff. I know others go up to 600 and I have even heard of 800 grit, but I personally wouldn't try it with the exception of a flow coat of clear over a just painted BC/CC job myself.

If the moldings are in decent shape, but just have typical chips/flakes/road rash, then you will most likely want to sand with any where from 80-220 depending on the damage. Then you are going to want to use some primer (medium build to high build again depending on damage) to fill all your defects and scratches. Then sand the primer down with 220, 320, and 400 before final paint.

Not sure how much experience you have with painting and bodywork. If you don't have much, I would recommend checking out videos online to help you sort out what you need to do, the steps, and the order to the process. Hard to give you much better advice without seeing pictures of what you are trying to repaint. Good Luck!

[86GT2go]

No finer than 400 grit if you are going to use a sealer/primer as a base. Once the sealer/primer has been applied, it will be fine to block/wet sand the primer down to 600. The 600 gives the primer just enough 'tooth' for the color coat to adhere to without leaving ghosts of sanding marks once the second and third layers of your color coat are applied.