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  1. #1

    Default Power Door Lock Switch

    I am working on getting the power door locks working on my 86 GT vert, and of course it's being a PITA.

    My car had the actuators, but was missing one switch/socket entirely, and one switch. I have access to a few other 85/86 doors, and used them as donors for the parts. I pushed a switch into the socket on the passenger side, and wired up the drivers side and added the switch. The passenger side switch works as expected, and works with both actuators. The drivers side switch does nothing.

    I swapped the switches around to test for a bad switch, but the drivers side switch works in the passenger side. This leads me to thinking I am having a wiring issue. I messed around with a multi-meter for a while, and do not see 12V across any of the leads. I checked the 1986.pdf wiring diagram and confirmed that all the wires are connected in the correct order.

    Anyone have any ideas on troubleshooting steps or a solution?

    Thanks!
    Triple black '86 GT Convertible 5.0/5spd (T5Z, hurst short throw, VM-1, 93 leather, all black tmi door panels, 93 cobra wing, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, 13.5 degrees base timing).

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
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    I had the same problem when I bought my car but it was the opposite for me as my passenger side was the one that did not work. After looking into it I found that a previous owner cut the wires behind the passenger kick panel for some reason. I assume it was for a alarm that was removed prior to me buying it.

    Id trace the wiring back. You should be able unhook the plug from the door to the main harness and check continuity from the switch to the plug. If it checks out the you know that your door harness is good then you can move on.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  3. #3

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    I will do that in the morning. The one interesting thing I forgot to add is the passenger side switch stops working if I remove the drivers side switch.
    Triple black '86 GT Convertible 5.0/5spd (T5Z, hurst short throw, VM-1, 93 leather, all black tmi door panels, 93 cobra wing, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, 13.5 degrees base timing).

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Helping out with the door panel and power lock improvements while Glidethunder is home from college for spring break.

    What’s interesting is articles suggest ground comes from the drivers door and power from the passenger door.

    The wires on the drivers side were ripped out of the switch base and left for dead. That was an easy fix, just take the back of the base off from the salvaged spare door and swap the matching color coded wires one by one.


    On the passenger side the switch base was still there but had obviously been part of a cut and splice exercise and not a pretty one at that. But that base was there it was just the switch that was missing and that’s the one that works.

    So it leads me to which wire on the passenger side is supposed to supply power to the drivers side? There is no power over there except when the passenger switch makes the actuator go.

    As I look at the screws the stupid previous owner ran into the kick panels I know darn well they are a likely source of wiring damage— unfortunately
    Last edited by erratic50; 03-21-2019 at 08:52 AM.

  5. #5

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    Found an article talking about a 1990 Mustang (that claims 4eyed cars are done the same). They say that the actuators get power from the passenger switch, and ground from the drivers switch (Which makes sense given that neither switch work when the other is not present). From what I understand the black/white wire on the driver's side switch is supposed to have power, and mine does not.

    Went back to the wiring diagram, and found where that lead goes. I saw it went to this: Name:  Capture1.PNG
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    I tried looking up those numbers, and never found anything online. I cannot tell what this is. Are these just referring to something else somewhere else in the diagrams?
    Triple black '86 GT Convertible 5.0/5spd (T5Z, hurst short throw, VM-1, 93 leather, all black tmi door panels, 93 cobra wing, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, 13.5 degrees base timing).

  6. #6

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    Never did figure out what that thing in the diagram was, but....

    Did more hunting to confirm the black/white lead was supposed to have 12V power. I traced the wire back into the kick panel area and saw a connector between it and a white/yellow(?) wire. checked both sides compared to the door ground, and cigarette lighter (for confirmation) and saw no 12V on either side. This confirmed my door harness was fine.

    I then used a piece of tie wire, and jumped from the 12V for the interior light to the connector in question, flipped the switch, and the doors locked.

    I could have fought the fight of figuring out where that white/yellow lead *should* get 12V from, and fix that, but I did not really have time. Instead I just used a quick connect off a circuit I added for power lumbar that's hot all the time, and that made the switch work.

    Then it was onto actuators. My driver's side was froze up, and my passenger side sounded like a drunk b*tch on a pogo stick, so both had to go.

    I have seen a few different theories on how to do it, but this took me less than 30 minutes from start to finish:
    1) Disconnect actuator (cutting up arm on sharp door optional)
    2) Spray down with whatever penetrating lube Walmart has because you lost your WD
    3) Take a wide chisel, and shove it between the actuator and the mount. Then twist the chisel in the direction that forces the actuator downward.
    (From here, the bushings stayed in the mount, so I had to: )
    4) Use a UT knife to force the bushing out of the mount
    5) Lift actuator out at 90 degree angle
    6) Install new actuator on old mount


    Got the switches working, the actuators replaced, and installed new TMI door panels I've had sitting around for a couple years now. Here's the before and after: Name:  982da165-e07e-48a3-bcdd-d7f3e0c6338c.jpg
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    Last edited by GliDeThuNDeR; 03-22-2019 at 03:41 AM.
    Triple black '86 GT Convertible 5.0/5spd (T5Z, hurst short throw, VM-1, 93 leather, all black tmi door panels, 93 cobra wing, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, 13.5 degrees base timing).

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    TMI door panels look outstanding! Even better in person. My ONLY complaint is one of the panel clip slots is a country mile off. It’s damn near impossible to locate and drill so it just got left off this time around. But just one clip, the rest were like a glove and they are installed with all new clips.

    we used trash bags to install a vapor barrier before the door panel. The new panels use ABS backer and have significant foam in them which is extremely noticeable in terms of sound deadening

    I can’t really explain how much nicer this makes the car seem. WOW

    If anyone needs black Four Eyed convertible door panels that had a good job done spray dying them black and carpeted door speaker pods for 6.5” door speakers— the ones we took out are in solidly useable shape. PM glidethunder for pictures and to close a deal on them — and get them out of my garage and/or storage unit. Lol

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