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  1. #26


    Happy right now, parts are all in Lol and of course having issues with the pics, oh well that's the exhaust currently below had pics of the PTFE lines and fittings, the 3" tailpipes, and other stuff

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    Last edited by wraithracing; 06-23-2019 at 07:45 PM. Reason: Fix Picture
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  2. #27


    About a 200 shot would get you deep in the 10’s if traction holds it and the car stays together

  3. #28


    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    About a 200 shot would get you deep in the 10’s if traction holds it and the car stays together
    Yeah, I don't think getting in the 11's will be a problem after I get the stuff I have on it thrown together and tuned out. Depending on first few nights out will decide in a hurry if I will spray it. Spray and pray, or Fuel injected setup and spray with some computer help will be a more serious question. Just need to get all the parts on and get out! I'm not in a hurry and only 17 pages into my Thesis so have ot focus on it as I forgot we have a trip/vacation in Mid July right when my Thesis is due, so have to front load and get out another 35-50 pages in the next few weeks. Sucks but this is the last class and last paper so have ot focus on it!

    Started doing the door fixes yesterday but rain moved in so sealed it back up and will complete them soon, also have decided I will buy a 40lb sand blaster setup so when I'm under the car and doing the battle boxes I'm going to strip and clean everything underneath, and then after some research the ACE brand rust inhibitor is what I'm going to go with over the Por15, may let it dry a few days and then either clear coat it or add something to help seal it. Of course will patch and replace any rusted panels back there as well! Once the rear end goes in the air will be a long set of hours under the rear, but hopefully doing it right will let me not have to worry about anything back there, until I tear into the actual axle, I did get recommendations to a local speed shop that will properly weld in the 9" outers, so will go that route with the Big 9" ends and hav a buddy selling the proper brake setup and brackets for the 9" big ends, so will purchase that. Now to decided what to do about actual axles to go in it when I get to that point, as well as built tracklok or Truetrack, Spool won't be for me as I plan on driving it to and from work on track days and home from the track, at least for the next few years until I get a different place where i can store a trailer, DAMN HOA's....
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  4. #29


    Duplicate post
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  5. #30


    Posted this in it's own post for feedback in the electrical side, however figure throw on here for feedback as well:


    My stock under dash fuse panel is cracked, which leads to some interesting electrical issues... The wiring is chopped, corroded, and it's a mess, so I'm going to start over with it...

    Just wanting some opinions on the following from those of you that may have already been through this:

    1st - How many circuits would you recommend? 12, 18, 21, 22?

    The standard box has 18, initially car is street strip but due to an upcoming move may make it more a corner carver as opposed to 1/4 mile as the previous owner built it. Knowing this considering going with a 21 circuit setup to leave room for growth... I have considered 12 circuit setups.

    2nd - What Brand would you go with?

    Of course Painless just off name recognition - will be custom done by me, but will more than likely get the pre-wired and labelled.

    Any feedback on Classic-Technologies brand?

    Feedback on EZ Wiring brand?

    What about the usual suspects on Amazon and Ebay?

    BestEquip -

    Speedway Motors:

    maXpeedingrods -

    Mophorn -

    Have also considered just building a panel like this: this would be cheaper, and would mount on the front side of the rear seat delete that I'm building more than likely, I have the experience and am an Engineer by trade...

    Wanting this to be a 1 and done - will pay for the good shielding on the wires, will soider, weatherproof crimp, and protect everything. Will probably run some additional distribution blocks, the one thing I like about the 21/22 circuits is they have relay for Fuel pump already, and mine is currently hacked in...

    Let me know your thoughts, and experiences. I will be doing everything on the car, and while I'll get some passes in this fall/Winter down here in Florida, next summer will do this, however I will be doing this before I put nitrous, or anything else that needs better wiring... I guess I'm saying there is a very good chance I may be doing this BEFORE I head back to the track this fall... Redoing the entire fuel system, battle boxes, rear diff, brakes, and alot of other stuff currently, so may just tear into it at this time as well...

    Let me know your opinions please!
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  6. #31


    Finally finished up my 2nd Master's degree this past Friday night - Thesis and some work requirements had all my attention, as well as a trip to Bonneville Salt Flats and Salt Lake City. It's all done, phew! So Sunday spent a few hours and got the windows finished - well the passenger side window is still moving so will tear the door panel off and resolve that issue - then will get a tint job done to help keep the temp down and well for the looks as well!

    Took dash out, wired up the Air Fuel Guage with power etc, replaced dash lights - still not working damnit.... Got my Trans Temp guage working, fuel guage, oil pressure are workign, but my damn temp guage now doesn't work....

    Took for a spin to see what A/F is - Wow, anything above around 5k and it goes from a nice 12.8 to 15.1 - 1 - got out of it, tried again same thing!

    So happy I didn't go back to the track and passed till I could get the guage on!

    So - now to do all the work that's necessary before I head back, and install the parts I have built up!

    -Battle boxes - welding them in - will also weld the stock welds in better around this area then epoxy and seal up etc.
    -Metco Upper and Lower Control arms in and adjust pinion angle to 2 degree's while resting on ground
    -Looked and will have to order upper axle bushings - probably will go metal but need to look first, may just do poly as I believe my uppers are all metal so want a flex point somewhere in there...
    -Drop Fuel tank and clean, have around 3 gallons in it now
    -Mount fuel pump and filter setup lower
    -New 8AN fuel lines for supply, reusing the 6an return that is in place, but will plumb it in differently to the tank and seal off the second port on rear of the sump...
    -Wiring - will be adding a relay to the Fuel pump, making a switched power supply block weather sealed and under the hood, will run fuel pump and all guages off of that, also have to do something with the E-fan wiring...
    -Have 70 sq feet of sound deadener so will be pulling carpet and addressing rust and lack of rubber where necessary to limit the leaks - read as get rid of them.
    -Address the Brakes - want to just fix the current brakes but if they are bad will sell a kidney to go ahead and do the 9" housings, 31 or 33 spline and possibly a full spool... Taht will pretty much mean i don't get back to the track this year though hence me wanting to wait on brakes, but they are bad enough won't go back on them as is, the good thing is means I don't mind dropping the rear axle completely to do the bushings and clean it up right now, and give room for the BB's and other crap back there.
    -Weld in V-bands
    -Install new Stainless 3" Mufflers
    -Install new Stainless 3" tailpipes
    -Adjust front suspension and see if I can find my old unused Steeda bump steer kit and install it.
    -Dial in Electric fan setup - may remove and sell and replace with a dual contour setup....
    -Install Center console and fab the top plate for the B&M shifter I have in there - have all the parts but need to cut the metal top piece as was designed for 87-93 console
    -Figure out how to Aim the headlights, all 4 are pointing different directions...
    -Figure out a stalk for my blinkers and brights, can't find one so will find something and tack weld it on the stalk I think... Just has the little stud sticking out and is hard to use as is - plan on driving to and from work to dial in on race days.
    -Install Line Lock
    Tune the Carb - will get close with Vaccum guage, then fine tune with the A/F guage but it's WAY off currently, and not putting time in tuning it until I have the new fuel setup in as well as the exhaust complete...

    Items to Buy before I head back to track:
    At least a drivers side 5 point harness

    Items on short list to purchase as I can:
    -Quick release steering wheel setup
    -Possible seats - If buy Poly seats that I can mount to roll bar, can happen quickly but Kirkeys......
    -Rear axle items - Disk brake setup, 31 or 33 spline setup, anti-moans, proper mounts for disk brakes
    -Front brakes for the SN95 spindles I have
    -Master cylinder and possibly brake booster...
    -Guage cluster that works - probably make my own Florida50 style but need to start sourcing guages, in my stock cluster only the speedo works right now... Sunpro 3 guage is what I use along with the huge tac and A/F guage.

    Items that will be done while working on other items:
    -Use the Black trim SEM paint I have All stainless mouldings will be the satin black, but they are in horrible shape so will be time consuming, mirrors, grill, and bumper trim will be done at the same time...
    Last edited by bahndrvr; 07-30-2019 at 04:42 PM.
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  7. #32


    Just SCORED! Cobra front brakes with new Slotted EBC rotors, and EBC pads, Rear Cobra Brakes with the same EBC setup with regular brackets, and 9" ends brackets....

    Picking them up before the end of the week, this weekend will start tearing into the car to get more stuff done!!!
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  8. #33


    Lowers done

    Also had decided was cutting rear springs but once got them off they had 2 spacers inside them (on each spring) so will install without the spacers and see where it sits. On to the more difficult uppers in the next few evenings.

    Will drop tank before that step and pull out the fuel line, leaving return in place and reusing as its 6an and should be fine for my carb setup.

    Used my 6013 stick at first but wasn't working out so the modified flux came out, some were perfect others burnt through even on low. Realized I didn't have my damn copper Spoon! Picking up a new one today and will NOT weld on the sheet metal without it backing from here on out. I also did not clean up the welding points enough and could tell big time on the welds. Went like butter where properly prepped was a bitch, splatter and burn through where half assed it. It was raining and phone got wet so didn't take a ton of pics. This one pic is just after tack and you can see the burn through in two places, don't worry closed those up.

    Passenger side is done, drivers side I have to weld underneath still, and getting a small sand blaster for the prep going forward. I think spoon and better prep will make the difference! Hoping removing those spacers will get it lower in the rear. Going to go ahead and roll fenders now as well but will blast and seal underside prior to heat and folding over. Lots more to go but progress was made! Pro-chamber back exhaust completely removed, tank is drained as well. Few more nights and weekends then can start tuning the carb and hit the track!

    Will be rewiring dash completely before then as well, have to get some etch primer today as well! Went to lunch, now have some stock 95 GT 28 spline's so can install the brakes and complete the 5 lug swap. Will be doing 9" big outers at the same time i do the axles and spool or locker upgrade, and chose the Big 9" outers due to the brake kit coming with the hardware Also had to order a new spoon so will move on with what I don't have to weld on for now, but bolt the upper battle boxes in and get the drilling and mounting out of the way
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    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

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