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  1. #1

    Default The legacy build - 1983 Notch

    Alright,

    Owned many Mustangs over the years but sadly longest I have ever kept one was 8 years. That was an 02 GT vert that I did everything on , MM full suspension, IRS 03 with FTB kit, SLP LT, SLP X, FR500 catback, 4.30s, Torsien T2R, Viper apex T-56, and Vortech with water meth, with stock h/c/I she put down 575 on the water meth and 17psi, typically was tuned for around 430whp. During the time I owned it I picked up an SN95 - a yellow 95 GTS that I planned to keep, but second marriage and another child happened so it got sold. The reason this is mentioned is the 347 that is in the 83 I built for the 95! Long story sold the short-block to my dad! He bought the motor, and then found a notch to build around the engine, then threw a bunch of parts

    So here is the car, all that happened around 2013 and last week in January I drove out to La and picked up the car! It will get A lot done to it, but its a damn good starting point and connects the Old man and Me a bit more!

    So, heres what Im working with:

    XXX block
    347 scat forged crank, Scat H beam rods, KB forged pistons, engine girdle
    AFR 205s
    Comp Cams 1.6s
    Comp Cams 295r Cam
    Ported Pro Product's Hurricane Mani
    Holley 750 - un-tuned and just thrown on
    DUI dizzy and Rev limit setup
    Rear sumped tank, and external - loud ass fuel pump
    Pro products FPR
    Massive Electric fan
    Built AOD - unknown mods, 3k torque converter - cant recall brand ATT, unknown valve body on the tranny, but has the electric Overdrive off and feels very tight and capable
    B&M Hammer shifter assembly
    Unknown rear control arms upper and lower, they dont have zirk fittings installed so will find out what type soon...
    3.73s FRPP, new trak-lock extra tight
    QA1 k-member and control arms
    Unknown cheap coil overs in the front
    Unknown caster camber plates
    Cage but was cut and missed so wont pass tech
    Other stuff will edit in but on phone right now.

    Will edit in more of a story probably later tonight but this is where we start!

    Last pic was my dad running an 11.7x on 110 octane, i'll be running pump gas and going to beat his times initally.
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    Last edited by bahndrvr; 03-19-2019 at 07:28 PM.
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  2. #2

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    Items that need attention ASAP:

    Front bumper, headlight surrounds, trim all need to be black

    Exhaust is pieced together, one tailpipe is rusted out, and has some crap hangers. Has longtubes - unsure what brand , Cats - yes brand new aftermarket Cat's attached to back of the longtubes, no crossover pipe of any sort, 2 1/2 pipe to 3" flowmasters the Back down to 2 1/2 inch tailpipes.

    I have a 3" Pro-chamber, and a wideband that I'm going to install soon, and then 3" flowpipes to the 3" flows - probably do dumps " temporarily" until I figure out and dial in the rear a bit.

    Tuning - need to dial it all in, it's literally built, timed, new carb, then race gas and no tinkering, hell when i pulled the plugs they were still factory ones, meaning my dad didn't do any figuring out hot/cold, gap etc. I believe with some tuning and tweaking can get it pretty damn quick N/A.

    Brakes - it basically doesn't have any right now. So since have to address will be doing 5 lug swap and all the updates at the same time.

    More to update, have to get youngest to bed. Pic's below are when I went to Louisiana and picked it up, rental truck, dads trailer, and the car, I will be putting these big and littles back on soon, but the front tires are dry rotted so have to replace them first. Will rock them until I get the 5 lug swap then will be 17x3 or 4 in front, and still 15's in the rear, just unsure of size and config.
    Attached Images Attached Images    
    Last edited by bahndrvr; 03-19-2019 at 10:45 PM.
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  3. #3

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    Well got news today my dad is heading over, he will be in town tomorrow so heading to the track to get the first passes in the car with him watching

    Went ahead and addressed a few issues this evening, and getting a new tire for the passenger front centerline.

    Heat gunned the fender liners for space, set coils in front at the same height for both sides, removed the front swaybar, and no tuning still, and still has the same plugs in from when he owned it. Will see what she will do, and hope we don't break her

    Stoked, didn't think I would get track time for another month or so, but here we go

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    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  4. #4

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    Will edit in some vid's, and pic's a little later but started off a really frustrating night, car was breaking up A LOT after 2nd, threw some 110 in it and sloshed the tank around but need to pull some timing, throw some of the stuff I have for the car in, and pull the plugs and regap and start tuning the carb. Best was a 12.81 at 100 mph, but she was falling on her face and cutting out top of 2nd and all of 3rd. Pretty sure was getting fuel wash on the plugs.
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  5. #5

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    Looks super clean! Should be a lot of fun!

    Meh, what do you need brakes for?
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  6. #6

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    Hit the track for the baseline passes and runs, no changes other than putting a tank of 93 in.

    That was a mistake, and I have a starting point but in order to get into the 12's i had to put 5 gallons of 110 in and slosh it around.

    That's easy enough to fix but was a fairly frustrating night. I have lots of pics and some vids to edit but it was breaking up and pretty sure getting fuel wash, had surging first few passes but it evened out just had the breaking up, no detonation.

    Oh well, now I can start throwing what I have in the garage on the car, and cool thing was my dad and uncles came over and that's why i ended up hitting the track!

    Best was 12.81 at 100.5, this was mearly baseline runs and now I have a starting point, plugs, fuel filter, timing, and carb tuning enroute as well as dropping the cats and getting the 3" setup on after the longtubes, as well as the A/F guage in ASAP.
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  7. #7

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    Well pulled and read the plugs - they were gapped at .58, and are Autolite 3922's....

    I cleaned them with wire wheel and brake clean as they were pretty bad, gapped them at .42 and threw them in. Car didn't like that.....

    So picking up some Autolite 3924's OR some NGK 6962's which I think I'll try but with the DUI ignition and distributor I will gap them considerably I believe they come at .34, I'm going to take them to .42 to attempt and then set the base timing to 10 degree's and go from there, I'm expecting around 32 degree's of timing to be the happy point but will make my way to it slowly.

    Also picking up a spacer for the air filter assembly and will probably strip the chrome off of it and throw a cheap paper filter I have in there for now. I will eventually go with one of the tops with the filter on the top and the sides and I'm going to measure tomorrow to see what size I can fit in the cutout inside the hood.

    Exhaust - priced out what I needed to make the 3" pro-chamber I have work and that's not going to happen right now. So will be buying a Cheap X pipe kit and welding that in with what I have. Eventually when the funds allow will replace everything - the headers, midpipe, and catback and will go with 3" at that time - I hope.... Once I have the cats out and some better flow I'm sure i'll be happy with the headers and mid assembly but the tailpipes will be getting attention before the remainder of the exhaust - even if it means I go with dumps for the time being as the one tailpipe is completely rusted out and the hangers used are the reason...
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  8. #8

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    Got to work on the exhaust today

    Pro-Chamber is in Have to finish flow-tubes tomorrow but used the front of the Pro-chamber to attach to the flow-tubes, need to cut the step downs out tomorrow and tie in the tubes and then enjoy the new sound and power

    Now has a balance/crossover tube, LT's to the 3" pro chamber to 3" mufflers - but alas will still be running the 2.5" tailpipes for now at least, and when I do the tailpipes will probably go wiht Spintech mufflers as these are IMCO, not Flowmaster 40's like I was told...

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    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  9. #9

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    Alot of work into the car recently not alot of updates on here though lol.

    First - did some digging and since Exhaust mods to get the header back to tailpipe situation dialed in I haven't touched exhaust to cut and add my 22" tips to finish it up. Did get the proper exhaust hanger mounts just have to get them installed then line up and weld the finishing touches. Also have ran a few times so now have the pinholes in the full exhaust marked properly to remove the final time and touch up all the welds. Will rework my drivers side muffler to tailpipe welding as well as I really don't like what I did - I ran out of wire as well but have some better wire and etc..

    I have had brake issues since day one and my dad had a little vaccum pump he threw in but with the electrical issues - just old wiring and don't trust it really - I chose to go vaccum canister - added it in and Wow - have good vaccum now and sensitive pedal finally not going to the floor - but alas brakes still suck. So will bleed and tweak and pretty sure he has the drums way out of adjustment for burnouts - know that adjusting the rear drums will help so will do that until I can build up the parts for proper 5 lug swap and disk all the way around.

    Wired in an adjustable fan relay as well - and it didn't work... Ended up going for a 4-5 mile drive coming home and spitting coolant - my temp gauge didn't register so due to the location of the temp sensor I know it's the thermostat failing, at least I'm hoping as I picked up a new 180 and will throw it in one evening this week. I say it's the thermostat due to it never opening and therefore my gauge not registering - have the heavy duty electric water pump so hoping it's the thermostat and it's a cheap 4 dollar replacement so giving it a shot anyway;-)

    Ordering a vaccum guage so can properly adjust the carb as I set the idle now - it was way off after the exhaust changes Imagine that going from clogged cats and all the stepdowns and stepups in exhaust to a true 3 with an actual crossover. Idle is around 950 now in park and around 800 in gear so what I consider good until I get the vaccum pump and can adjust the idle air mixture properly.

    The big thing is when I looked up the carb its not a 750 Its a 80531 which is an 850 and one hell of a carb the FI dreams have to wait for a while so broke out my old Holley book and will be using it as a guide to learn and tune hell may even end up staying carb for a long time

    Picked up some METCO adjustable upper control arms and some Metco lower arms for a song so will be installing those, but will be doing a bunch to the rear at the same time. Ordering up some battle boxes and will bolt in and then weld them, remove the rear seat as its unusable anyway and probably go with a bare aluminum theme in the inside of the car. Will replace the stock gauges with an aluminum sheet, do the door cards in aluminum, probably do the matching rear seat delete and the center console will get the same treatment as well as the dash where appropriate.

    The fuel system will get relocated as well there is a good 12 from the sump to the location of the Holley blue now and Im quite certain the fuel filter is pretty dirty so will pull and clean it the 100 micron setup and then mount it lower thinking rear of the car directly behind the bash bar or on the bash bar of the back bumper. It may be a little visible but eventually will replace pump and will be able to hide it better!
    I also ended up getting to a proper 14x 3 air filter and had to cut the inside of the hood under the crap cowl to make it fit have to go back and clean up the cuts with a Dremel as the sheet metal cuts look like crap, then need to seal it all up. I live within 2 miles of Kaenen Hoods here in Melbourne so will get a 2.5 or 3 cowl made up in the near future but its low on the list as drivability and dialing in on pump gas is the first concern for me!

    I will say this with the changes I have made, including pumping out all the old gas that was a mix of water, pump, 3 year old C12, and 5 gallons of 110 the car is now running harder than it ever has through 1st and 2nd at least since Ive owned it on the pump gas. The vaccum advance on the DUI ignition setup I have is 30 so have to verify the base timing and then try to dial it all in from there so its not breaking up in top of 3rd like last time at the track with the crap fuel! Hard to tell how its doing until I get it on the track.
    I did get my A/F guage all mounted and hooked up but need to run power to it, then will be able to really start to watch and understand.

    Have to run an inside vaccum guage as well but have an old one just need the plumbing for it but will be dialing in SOON!!!!

    Will throw some pics in soon!
    Last edited by bahndrvr; 05-02-2019 at 09:59 AM.
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  10. #10

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    Figure i'll throw in some pics:

    First was trying to track down jet sizes for the Carb and this stamp is what showed me I have an 850 Carb not a 750 like was told

    2nd was me pumping out the 4-5 year old mixture of Water, Pump, C16, and VP110 so I don't waste time tuning and tweaking the carb and timing to fuel I'm not going to be using. Has 5 gallons of pump 93 in it now.

    3rd was the new Filter - have changed the bottom now - this was a flat one and required a spacer to clear the DUI ignition, now have an Offset one but have a true 14"x3" filter on it.

    Last is what the hood looked like at the end of that day. It looks better now but I have been bad about taking pics -

    Picked up a proper vaccum guage for tuning in the Idle air mixture and to assist in some other items.

    Next items are:

    Address the lack of flow/overheating issue - Have to rewire the fan controller as sure it not kicking on is my fault with the wiring - then hide the wiring as best I can. Throw the new thermostat in and make sure that super nice expensive electric water pump is actually working...

    The fuel pump relocation to get rid of the 10-12" of raise coming out of the tank - to get my angles and measurements and order up fuel lines (undecided on PTFE or Push Pin both E85 standard as of yet). Clean the inline filter setup i have and decide if I'm going with new filter setups or not as well.

    Then will dremel and seal the hood and test it at speed.

    Tune the carb for the proper idle air mixture and get idle dialed in. Tweak the timing a bit once that is done, finish wiring in the A/F gauge to help dial it all in and keep an eye on the fuel while driving and obviously to help tweak the tune beyond the idle/air setup.

    Pull exhaust from Muffler back to resolve any leaks - have some pinhole ones and throw the tailpipes and hangers on...

    Install the Metco upper and lower control arms and get proper pinion angle at ride height.

    Then prior to track day have to do some brake adjustments and drive to work a few times.

    Ordered cluster lights - so will pull the cluster an replace the lights as only one is workign and when I drive to track it's good, but on way back can't see anything.

    Ordered Battle boxes so when doing the tank drop, exhaust fixes, and fuel pump relocation will throw the battle boxes in - remove the rear seats and take measurements to build a rear seat delete - have to take the back seat option away as my youngest wants to get back there and it's useless with the roll cage in it.... Also went ahead and ordered a UPR 79-14 FORD MUSTANG 8.8 REAR END STUD GIRDLE | UPR with the main stud's support so will change fluid and throw that on as have a small leak back there currently....

    So have stuff building up - but coming up on Finals week next few weeks and have two 25 page papers due by the 17th and haven't started them - so not sure when I'll get the bulk of this done - but hoping to get it all done and get back out to track SOON! Realistically hoping before the end of month it's all done!

    To help with this - I will be making room in the garage so next purchases will be some shelving supports - and boards to enable some changing of the garage and allow me to park the car in there - all of the wiring - torque boxes, tank relocation, rear diff - hell most of it can be done in my garage after hours when my wife and kids go to sleep - that will help me meet the self imposed requirement of getting back to track by end of the month.

    Then throw on I have to strip the paint - claybar, and wax the car as I got overspray ALL over the damn thing from when I stained my fence
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    Last edited by bahndrvr; 05-02-2019 at 10:11 AM.
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  11. #11

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    Few vid's - just threw on youtube - no editing etc - they are rough...

    First start After exhaust changes:

    https://youtu.be/uZOAjI12baw

    2nd Start after exhaust changes:

    https://youtu.be/aAhQi2ddrfU

    From the track night when went out with no changes - in car was a 13.3 Can hear the car breaking up in 2nd and 3rd if you listen
    https://youtu.be/GimmiLzoIYY

    Expect video's to improve - and will start doing ALOT more content in the future once the 2nd Master's degree is complete in July!!!!

    Vid from my 12.83 pass by my uncle - compression messed this video up but long way to go with this one...
    https://youtu.be/w4VqBu_d6X0
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  12. #12

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    Well - Not as much done as I wanted this weekend but did get my shelving done - however did not get everything put into it - also listed alot of stuff for sale to help clean out the garage, so one step closer to parking the Stang in the garage, that's when the Big stuff will start to happen

    I did cut the tailpipes off to get ready to remove the tank, reweld the small holes in the tailpipes, will drill weep holes just after the mufflers at the lowest point and put the tailpipes on.

    Picked up the Metco's upper and lower adjustable arms - man they are pretty pieces!
    The Battle Boxes arrived.
    Wired up the Fan and it works properly now
    Refilled and burped the coolant system
    The rear diff cover arrived as well

    I have been eyeing that Summit/Painless wiring kit for universal 8 for ~325 alot more intently lately as well due to all the little issues - the water pump fired up just fine after wiggling some wires....

    Electrical gremlins are something I refuse to play with - and one of the main reasons I want to drop the tank and look at everything is knowing how they have cobbled together so much I want to see if there is a relay hid anywhere in the car for the pump - I'm almost certain there is no relays, and no way to shutoff fuel.... I have a battery switch that I will mount up in the back soon, but I don't want that to be the only way to turn off the fuel....

    Garage needs some going over, the stuff needs to go that I have for sale, and then will put the car in. Have to be honest, as much as I want to hit the track, I'm considering pulling the big and littles and selling them, selling the Ponies, and with that money getting my 5 slug swap, better brake setup, Line Lock, and goin to 5 lug before I put back on the road.

    Goal is back to the track ASAP, but I hate having to do things twice... I guess we will see once I drop the rear axle and tank to rerun the fuel system and do the battle boxes etc.

    BTW, interior is ALL coming out, will be patching the random holes in the car before the carpet goes back in, the rear seat will be removed and sound deadening done once the battle boxes are in, and have to remove all the cheap sound deadening that is in the car, it's just cheap foil and bubble wrap which is trapping hella condensation in the car, which has probably led to alot of rust under the carpet...

    Oh man, my list just keeps getting longer!!!! AT this point I'm thinking the car will come out of the garage looking completely different...

    While in the garage in addition to the stuff I have mentioned, the front bumper mounts will get cleaned up, the headlights properly adjusted, wiring cleaned up, the Trim will all go Satin black, keys and door handles as well, suspension height will be changed and setup properly, ETC....
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  13. #13

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    Having staying on track issues lol.

    Scored some SN95 spindles - then that sent me down the rabbit hole of brakes...

    BUT want to stay on point to get back to the track - so having to refocus to get that done - typing this helps me with that and I will refer back for myself as well lol. Instead of getting divorced from purchases I'm going to slowly buy the brake stuff - which is very hard for me.

    SO - plan is this for first courses of action:

    Get garage clean finished - ended up doing a bunch of maint and putting new tires/rims on my wifes Jeep last weekend.
    Pull the car in and get off the ground on Jack Stands
    Drop Gas Tank
    Re-route Fuel pump and clean inline filters
    Fab mount for Fuel pump to be level or close to sump
    Resolve any fuel line issues - noticed a small leak from the hard lines - probably going to do 6AN PTFE hose
    Remove rear seat assembly
    Install Battle Boxes and repair any cracks - scared of what I will see when I get the seat and rear axle out...
    Completely do rear seat area in 80mm butyl after boxes bolted and welded in
    Measure and Fab rear seat delete
    Install Metco Upper and Lower control arms
    Measure driveshaft - put this in as someone said it's too short
    Change rear diff fluid and install rear diff cover
    Change Tranny fluid and filter - try to identify what "kit" is in my tranny
    Fill any sheet metal holes in the cars rear area - drain plug kit, and some welding of sheet metal while have it all out - also the gasket for the filler neck.
    Remount Tank
    Patch exhaust - pulling it all out and laying on the ground - then will put all back in - bolt up, line up exhaust tips and tack weld - then pull and weld them in perfectly.
    Fire up and tune with the vaccum guage for the idle/air - then finish wiring wideband and determine if need jet changes etc.
    Last edited by bahndrvr; 05-24-2019 at 12:34 PM.
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  14. #14

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    Well, used my birthday money just now lol:


    Mustang Door Latch Striker Spacer Kit (79-93)
    Qty: (1) - $7.99
    #LRS-6122008K

    Mustang Door Striker Bushings (79-93)
    Qty: (1) - $7.99
    #LRS-BP241PR

    Mustang Outer Door Handle Kit Black (79-93)
    Qty: (1) - $17.99
    #LRS-22404K

    Mustang Door Glass Bracket Retainers (82-93)
    Qty: (1) - $10.99
    #HDW-21410

    Mustang Wilwood Adjustable Proportioning Valve (79-93)
    Qty: (1) - $49.99
    #WIL-26010922

    Mustang Window Guide Bushing Kit (81-93)
    Qty: (1) - $15.99
    #LRS-22362APR

    Mustang Master Door Hinge Pin & Bushing Kit (83-93)
    Qty: (1) - $20.99
    #LRS-23204-KIT


    Mustang Lock Set w/ Black Bezel (79-93)
    Qty: (1) - $54.99
    #LRS-21984A-KIT

    Mustang Inner & Outer Door Belt Weatherstrip Kit (81-86)
    Qty: (1) - $129.99
    #LRS-20544-K

    Mustang Filler Pipe To Trunk Floor Rubber Seal (79-93)
    Qty: (1) - $33.99
    #LRS-9008A

    Add that all up then throw in the free shipping, and the Memday10 for 10% off and it's just over 300, looks like it's all coming in one box as well! So all of these items will get done while I have the car in the garage, so will take before pics, and since I will be driving it to work had to have doors that locked and I coudln't stand the chome handles and key holes - so got that, and the windows practically fall off everytime I roll down the windows - also ordering a cheap line lock and hoses - that's the first part of the brake issues being address - modding the stock prop valve and will adjust the rear brakes - have pads I will put in as well to see if that will hold off the brakes until I can get the rest needed for the 13" front and 11" rear cobra setup - will go with 95 Cobra MC and unsure if doing the booster or not at this time. May try it with the stock and vaccum cannister I have and decide after.

    Anyway, off to order the line lock stuff then head home from work
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  15. #15

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    Stuff has started arriving

    Lone lock and install kit arrived as well as the 5 light spindles- bonus in the spindles they include the longer ARP wheels studs didn't take pics just opened and verified everything! The large LMR order will arrive by Friday, the new lower profile air cleaner will arrive tomorrow, the work will hopefully begin this weekend!!!

    Stoked is an understatement!
    Last edited by bahndrvr; 05-31-2019 at 03:27 PM.
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  16. #16
    FEP Power Member Bryan Knebworth's Avatar
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    Lexington, MA
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    Default

    Oh man, I would totally keep the stainless. Actually that was the first thing I noticed about the car--how you never see cars at the track with stainless! I would leave it for that reason alone. People like the unique.

  17. #17

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    Well sold my Oxy-Acet torch setup as I never used it - so with some of that money ordered up a few more things to complete the exhaust.

    3" Flowmaster FX Stainless Mufflers - figured I will give these a shot online they sound like they really will take the drone out and the IMCO mufflers have holes in them I discovered yesterday while looking, honestly can't beat the 38 bucks a piece shipped. I figure they are so new they are trying to move them to help establish the name - supposedly comparable to the Magnaflows so will be what I'm looking for. Decided to keep my cutouts as well and may throw them on down the road, guess we will see

    4 3" V-Bands - going to pull the headers, strip them down as they have ALOT of rust and make sure there is no penetration - if they are good and solid - will then strip and flame proof paint them and do the proper heat cycles on them, had good luck in the past doing that. Will also coat the V-Bands as well. Will weld in the Bands on the headers to remove the tweaked 3 bolt setup and tie directly into the Pro-Chamber, then at the back of the Pro-chamber to the flowtubes I have, will allow me some adjust-ability for the tailpipes doing it that way as well.

    The tailpipes shoot rust out the back every time I fire it up - so when I have them off will figure up a way to strip the insides of them, and then coat it with a rust inhibitor of some sort before I weld the tips on - or just sell my tips and buy some 3" tailpipes like I really want - to be honest i have spent too much money recently and am eyeing some Greg Weld 17x4 and 15x10 wheels down near Miami with new tires for a stupid low price, and they are rare which I love...

    Have to head to a buddies shop on Saturday to do some stuff to my wifes Jeep AGAIN - TPMS sensors out of her stock tires - into the new tires as they previous owner Did take out the TPMS and wife won't let me buy a tuner for her - different budgets.
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan Knebworth View Post
    Oh man, I would totally keep the stainless. Actually that was the first thing I noticed about the car--how you never see cars at the track with stainless! I would leave it for that reason alone. People like the unique.
    I'm undecided on the trim at this point - will be the last thing I do on this ever-growing list lol. If I end up with the Greg Weld Wheels I mentioned in the post or any Chrome/Polished wheels will keep the Stainless. If I end up getting darker wheels I will go dark with the Stainless. Keys are being replaced either way though. The good thing about Stainless as well is it's easy to strip if I don't like it or later down the road when I strip to paint it may go back to it

    Thanks for the input - Love it

    Just got notified my packages from LMR arrived just now
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  19. #19

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    I made the correct decision and passed on on the Greg Welds - will figure wheels and tires out After i have the rear axles and brakes in hand.

    I went down south a bit to use a buddy's shop to resolve the TPMS issues in my wife's Jeep - break the bead on 10 tires, remove the sensors from her stock wheels put in the 2018 model stock wheels and then reseat and balance all the tires... It was 101 when I walked in the shop, was a long afternoon but wife is happy now.

    While down there I found an 83 rear bumper with NO Waves - has a small puncture on it but will take my time and redo it properly. That's not the biggest score, while there I asked the guy if he had any other 83 year specific parts, so for $40 I got all of this:

    Entire center console INCLUDING THE ELECTRONIC READOUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ebrake shield for the console in perfect shape, some front kick panels, and two Complete LX taillights.

    I'm stoked!

    The Flowmaster FX 3" mufflers will arrive on the 12th, the V-Bands on the 11th, and the goal is to have the car in the garage and in pieces by that time waiting for my install of the parts that I have collected in the evenings when it's not so hot.

    Pic's of the score Got a new phone and the new camera is Awesome - so will have some good pic's to add in the future

    current pic of the engine bay with the new filter setup - Remember goal is to get it running what it should be running in the 1/4 and able to drive to the track and back, not looks in the engine bay for now. I will get to a point where I pull the assembly, clean up the firewall and probably Scott Drake panels etc. For now going fast is job 1, could care less about the ratty wires as well as will get a new harness of some sort eventually as well.Attachment 128103Name:  20190530_183534.jpg
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    Last edited by bahndrvr; 06-03-2019 at 08:00 AM.
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  20. #20
    FEP Power Member qikgts's Avatar
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    Gotta love almost free stuff!
    '85 GT

    The other one... 2016 F-150 XLT Supercab Ecoboosted with 3.73's...

  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by qikgts View Post
    Gotta love almost free stuff!
    Well I paid 40 for the bumper - the rest was FREE I offered 20 more he said nah your doing me a favor **** just realized your in Rockledge - who were you on the old MuscleMustangsofBrevard site and are you on the Fbook page that exist now?

    Shane?
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  22. #22
    FEP Power Member qikgts's Avatar
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    Close on my first name lol, it's Steve.

    My user name was the same on there as it is here, don't do Facebook though.

    I went to a couple of MMOB meet ups with my '85 but I don't think you were there. I want to say one was at the Sonic in Cocoa and the other was at Bennigans in Melbourne.
    '85 GT

    The other one... 2016 F-150 XLT Supercab Ecoboosted with 3.73's...

  23. #23

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    Well did it now

    Sold an extra power Wheels that I had converted to 24v and did some tweaks too as it was too fast for my daughter... Went on eBay to take a look this morning and Boom found the Last set of 3" stainless tailpipes for 239 with shipping - said F it and bought them.

    With some other funds I had in Paypal from selling other items - instead of paying on my credit card, I said F it and ordered a 20ft 8AN PTFE hose kit - comes with 2x180's, 2x90's, 2x45's, and 4 straight 8AN fittings. It is the PTFE, Stainless, with Black Nylon and Black fittings. Quick math tells me I MAY need a few more connectors and will not be using the 180's so may sell them to buy some of the others I need. I have 6AN return already so will ensure any rubber lines I have are good and eventually just replace the 6AN return lines that are not hard lines with PTFE 6AN but will measure and ensure before I spend anymore money.

    Also ordered 36 sqft of 80mm Butyl Sound Deadener the Kilmat Brand that I run in my daily Civic Si. After I install and weld in the Torque Box re-enforcement will ensure all rust and metal is cleaned up and prepped then do every square inch in the back with the sound deadner, then later fab up a rear seat delete. Have enough to the the entire rear area, up to the quarter windows - all of the rear seat area, and all of the trunk area. Whatever I have left - I still have some from my Civic install, I'll put on the roof as will be removing the headliner to see what I can do with the roll bar to ensure it's safe, and then will paint it as well and while carpet is out and messing with that - will patch/fill any holes, or area's that have rust or holes from where the plates were welded into the

    Took a return back to Harbor Freight and picked up the "LMR" 40 dollar Pittsburgh branded in their pictures big pop rivet gun for 17 bucks

    Will do door handles this evening probably and if I have time get the inner and outer window guides in, and install the rest of the window stuff I have on whichever window needs it the most, then order up the rest.

    The exhaust tailpipes were too far gone and I really did not want to run dumps, when I weld the new flows and V-bands in I want to be DONE with exhaust for a while - will weld in another o2 bung while have the exhaust out as well as intend to do Fuel Injection eventually so will weld it in now - so I am really done with the exhaust The exhaust from the Pro-chamber back is all going to be Stainless now and full 3" all the way so will be done, just hope i like the sound of the new Flowmaster FX in 3"....

    I'm Excited - parts that are being purchased for a while are on the way, or in the garage. The 5 lug swap will wait till the fall now - the delimma there is go with the Dual piston 99+ PBR Calipers and 11" or do the 13" front brakes - and the issue there is running the 15x4 or 17x4 front, I prefer the look of the 17" but am not sold on that yet.... The Dual piston and disk all the way around will help immensely and planning on just doing the Master cyl when i do it not the booster as I have the catch can in and will leave it.... Thoughts on the 15 vs 17" fronts?

    Also did the door locks on the doors and trunk lid - the rear lid I'm not happy with so will address soon but started raining. Removed all the sound deadening and the rear seats, started on the inside of the windows repair and found another hole in my stock hard lines so that's why I ordered the fuel line kit and PTFE as I'm running pump and it's E10-E15 93 octane so want to be safe. Know that running the pump with E-85 on it my Holley Blue will go out so when I'm running the lines and changing the fuel pump mounting will set it up so can change to different E-85 compatible pump at the same time

    Before next track day I have alot to do but confident can get it all done in a couple of Evenings and a weekend worth of work... I will get 5 point harnesses - an out of spec for the passenger side and may buy out of spec and send in for the drivers side, or just get a new one, and would like to sell the adjustable back seats and get some fixed point ones - maybe a cheap plastic one for passenger side with cover that would match a Kirkey for the Drivers side... Harnesses will be in at minimum though!
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    Last edited by bahndrvr; 06-17-2019 at 12:35 PM.
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

  24. #24
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    If you want to run the 15" wheels you will NOT be able to run the 13" front brakes as they will not clear. 17" wheels are a minimum for the 13" front brakes. The standard 99+ PBR brakes should clear a 15", not 100% on a 15x4", but still should be able to make it work. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    If you want to run the 15" wheels you will NOT be able to run the 13" front brakes as they will not clear. 17" wheels are a minimum for the 13" front brakes. The standard 99+ PBR brakes should clear a 15", not 100% on a 15x4", but still should be able to make it work. Good Luck!
    yeap, that will be the deciding factor - car is being purpose built for Street/Strip, however my history creates the delimma... I typically want a "king of the hill" type of vehicle. When i got it already had a drag oriented setup with No power steering, No A/C, No Heat, QA1 up front etc.

    If I had built from the beginning would have Maximum Motorsports and coilovers with adjustable rebound all around... However since it doesn't have the "nice" things in it thinking just seeing how far I can go and getting into 9's with it eventually, if that's the case, the PBR Dual in stock size for 99 up will work for me, if I think I'll end up changing it up and going A/C, Heat, manual, etc it would be made right now in the next few months when I purchase the brakes - sounds ridiculous but makes sense to me I would not run the 17" fronts if not going with 13" brakes, no need IMHO. So the next 5 years of the build direction will be determined with the brake purchase in a wierd, round about way

    I think I'm committed to drive to track, race, drive home for now at least as no truck to tow, as such will be happy with 10's when I get there - till the engine lets go then will rethink ALOT of things. At that point stuff creeps in such as Modular swap, 351w build, or full on Dart Block 351w based build come into play you know, and at that time depending on where we end up living will make that call.

    The main issue is wife wants to move to Nashville area - and I'm a corner carver - not to mention mostly 1/8th mile tracks up that way, so the calling to take the twisties and "tail of the Dragon" are weighing on my brake setup right now.... Want to build it once the correct way and the few mods I'm doing that aren't correcting the issues I'm trying to think in that direction with the build.
    1983 Notch - 347, 295 Comp Cam, Holley 850, AFR 205's, "built" AOD, etc

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