T-5 Clutch Adjustment?

[ZephyrEFI]

Interesting bit of history there! According to the Ford Performance page I found, they still offer both. I wonder why LMR only carries the HD.

So, I will check the height and condition of the ball stud, and then grease it.

You're saying I shouldn't have to worry about the thickness of the flywheel, given that it's new? It just seems so weird there's no spec for where that surface sits in space compared to everything around it, and the fact that it can be shimmed. This year, I got used to thinking about assembling the engine and critical thousandths of an inch making all the difference. I can't believe the flywheel surface thing would just be trial and error, given how much of a pain in the a$$ it is to pull the trans on your back.

[Jack Hidley]

Brad,

There is a correct dimension from the friction surface of the flywheel to the back of the engine block. My point was that companies almost never mess this up. It is very easy to get correct, so it normally never needs to be checked. Getting the height of the PP fingers correct is ten times as difficult to do, and this dimension matters more as any error is going to be multiplied by a factor of 3.5 through the clutch fork. Any error in the position of the friction surface of the flywheel is multiplied by a factor of 1.

[ZephyrEFI]

Cool, thanks!

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[ZephyrEFI]

Alright, so I got the trans disconnected from the engine. We have learned some things.

First, the pivot ball I have is hacked to sh**.



I was wondering if that washer (spacer?) in there is okay, and according to LMR's install video, blink and you miss it, but they do show a washer there. So I guess that's okay.

Second, the clutch fork has a matching gouge. Isn't that cute? Twinsies!



Third, I went a bit overboard on the grease...

[wraithracing]

The washer/spacer you are referring to should be the lock washer. Not sure why virtually none of the pictures show it, but unless my memory is failing there is a lock washer that comes with the new pivot stud that is installed to help prevent the stud from coming loose. Just install the new stud with the lock washer and that should fix one of your problems. Definitely replace the clutch fork as that one is toast. Those two items alone can be a big reason why you had just a hard clutch pedal effort. Good Luck!

[ZephyrEFI]

The washer/spacer you are referring to should be the lock washer. Not sure why virtually none of the pictures show it, but unless my memory is failing there is a lock washer that comes with the new pivot stud that is installed to help prevent the stud from coming loose. Just install the new stud with the lock washer and that should fix one of your problems. Definitely replace the clutch fork as that one is toast. Those two items alone can be a big reason why you had just a hard clutch pedal effort. Good Luck!

That's good to hear, thanks! When I'd pushed on the pedal in the past week after installing the new cable and stuff, I was disappointed to find it was still pretty heavy. This explains that, I think!

[ZephyrEFI]

Well, I discovered why this happened. I happened to watch a video about installing the throwout bearing and clutch fork. Apparently I had installed the throwout bearing wrong. I hadn't had the spring thingy on the clutch fork under the lip of the throwout bearing.