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  1. #1

    Default T-5 Clutch Adjustment?

    So, when I install my new shortblock, at the same time, I'd like to take the opportunity to improve my clutch pedal feel/effort. I plan to buy a Maximum Motorsports cable/quadrant kit and install that for starters.

    I was looking at the kit on LMR, and I see it comes with some shims and the firewall adjuster. For some history, I've always been dissatisfied with my clutch pedal effort. I have a used cable I got from who knows where, and a BBK quadrant (that was a b***h to install) and firewall adjuster. I do plan to swap out the BBK parts for MM. Anyway, what about adjusting this thing? I remember messing with the firewall ajuster a bit, and it just seemed to make things alarmingly tight. I ended up turning it all the way back in. How do you even know your clutch needs adjusting? When I installed mine, I tried it out, everything worked and there was no slop, so I just left it. What was I actually supposed to do?

    Oh, and a slight side note, I plan to buy a new flywheel to install. My existing one had been resurfaced, and I never added a shim to restore the clutch geometry to where it is supposed to be. I figured I'd take the opportunity to upgrade to a lighter one. What are the chances I might still need to shim the new one?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 03-18-2019 at 05:15 PM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  2. #2

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    as long as it's not a gimmicky triple hook quadrant, you'll see no advantage swapping the bbk stuff for maximum motorsports. The biggest effect is NOT using the adjustable cables. Use only the OEM non adjustable cable and make sure it's routed properly. Improper cable routing will destroy your pedal effort. Route it forward then down, then to the left of the motor mount right on top of the steering rack and back towards the fork
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Default

    I have the MM cable with UPR quadrant and adjuster in my car. UPR is garbage, never buy from them.

    Running a discontinued heavy duty Autozone clutch kit rated at 350 ft lbs in mine because of a problem with RAM. I’ll never do business with RAM again.

    my son’s 86 has a Zoom kit with around the same rating.

    Both have the same light & cheap Autozone flywheel. the odds of needing a shim or an adjustable pivot ball or a washer under the pivot are pretty high based upon 2 cars.

    I was at max resurface depth with two 1/8” spacers on my crank (yikes) when I went to the new Autozone flywheel. It was still lighter than factory was even with all that resurfacing btw..... stock one had like 13 clutch jobs on it

    If I had it to do again I would have left one shim in there or I would have added a washer to the pivot or got an adjustable one

    My son’s was right on the money with one shim on the pivot


    Basically you want the release fork to go all the way back but not resist to speak of forcthe first 1/2” as you try to pull it forward to put the cable on

    as your clutch wears you have to tension the cable to get it to release so get it to where you have 1/2” or mire adjustment left.

    i like my clutch pedal to engayge right off the floor — helps with getting a good hole shot I find

  4. #4

    Default

    If everything is within spec you'll never need any spacers under the pivot ball or flywheel. There is more then enough adjustment room with the stock setup. Engaging right off the floor is great for taking off, but a surefire way to not have full disengagement of the clutch. Personally I've used close to 10 ram clutches over the decades and they've all been wonderful. Nearly every clutch anyhow is made by Valeo. You can literally put a king Cobra, ram, AutoZone hd 1993 Cobra clutch and others side by side and they're virtually identical.
    Last edited by v8only; 03-18-2019 at 07:38 PM.
    Jeremy
    -86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
    -66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
    -72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
    -12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
    -03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
    Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
    http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip

  5. #5

    Default

    So, I noticed neither of you mentioned the firewall adjuster. Is that where the adjustment happens to compensate for clutch wear?

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    So, I noticed neither of you mentioned the firewall adjuster. Is that where the adjustment happens to compensate for clutch wear?

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Using the MM kit, the Firewall adjuster will thread in and out to adjust your clutch engagement point. I personally use the MM kit in all of my cars and have for years. Couple of points of the MM kit is the cable is a bit longer than the original cable and MM recommend you DO NOT attach it to the driver side frame rail like the original unit. This helps to improve the routing of the cable and prevents binding.

    The other point I will make is that different clutches/pressure plates can have different feelings. Several I have used adjusted just fine and felt as good if not better than a stock setup in regards to pedal feel, engagement point, etc. BUT . . . . I have had a couple that just never seemed right no matter what I did. The engagement point was either too high or too low and just didn't feel right. Still used the full MM kit, T5, etc. so the only difference was the clutch/pressure plate combo. If my memory is still good, I believe that was a Zoom kit. The clutch held up just fine, but I never liked how it felt. Maybe it was me, or maybe it was something else. I just mention it so you know that sometimes it may not be you or what you are doing.
    Last edited by wraithracing; 03-19-2019 at 11:05 AM. Reason: Spelling
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #7

    Default

    Haha, thanks for the reprieve. Also good to know about the cable.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  8. #8

    Default

    As the clutch wears, the firewall adjuster needs to be screwed into the firewall to compensate for the friction disc wear. The wear of the friction disc will increase the tension on the clutch cable. As the clutch wears, the pickup point from the floor will move.

    There are several places in the system that could need shimming. When the flywheel on a Mustang is resurfaced, the area that the PP bolts to and the area that the friction disc rubs on, are the same plane. So as the flywheel gets thinner from resurfacing, nothing about the PP geometry gets messed up.

    As the flywheel is resurfaced, the entire clutch-flywheel assembly is pulled slightly forward in the car. This means that the throwout bearing is going to need to travel slightly more forward in the car to contact the PP fingers. If the flywheel has 0.050" of material removed from it, this won't make any difference to the throwout bearing location. If the flywheel became 1/8" thinner, then you would want to move the throwout bearing this far forward by shimming the clutch fork stud with a washer. Unless your flywheel has gotten so thin from machining that it is unsafe, I would not replace it.

    The other "magic" in the system is properly positioning the end of the clutch quadrant in space so that the clutch cable ends up in the middle of the clutch cable housing where it comes out of the firewall. If this is not done correctly, there will be clutch cable housing wear, extra friction and poor clutch modulation. This requires two things. One, the quadrant must be machined correctly with the correct CONSTANT radius in it. If the quadrant has a variable radius in it, the clutch cable must be wearing on the ID of its housing. Two, the clutch quadrant needs to be precisely located side to side. This is done with the MM quadrant with the included shims.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  9. #9

    Default

    Haha, okay, I think I just wrapped my head around why clutch wear makes the cable MORE tense. Just went out to look at how mine is and it is quite tense. Just something of note, i guess.

    Since I'm replacing the shortblock with better stuff, I think I like the idea of going to a lighter flywheel anyway. And if it makes things in the clutch system line up better without having to shim things, so much the better. I also like the idea of matching components designed to work together, hence swapping in the entire Maximum Motorsports kit. Not to mention a firm belief in you, Jack and what you guys sell. I just can't say enough about your company. Thank you!

    Erratic, something you said in an earlier thread has me thinking about putting a new, quality throwout bearing in there and a steel bearing retainer.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ighlight=valeo

    I don't really want to pay for a new clutch kit at this point (don't need to), but those two things are relatively cheap insurance of smooth operation for years to come. I really can't wait to drive this thing with a smooth clutch!

    Thanks for the thoughts and tips so far!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post

    The other "magic" in the system is properly positioning the end of the clutch quadrant in space so that the clutch cable ends up in the middle of the clutch cable housing where it comes out of the firewall. If this is not done correctly, there will be clutch cable housing wear, extra friction and poor clutch modulation. This requires two things. One, the quadrant must be machined correctly with the correct CONSTANT radius in it. If the quadrant has a variable radius in it, the clutch cable must be wearing on the ID of its housing. Two, the clutch quadrant needs to be precisely located side to side. This is done with the MM quadrant with the included shims.
    This alone is so often overlooked. I have helped many guys chasing problems with erratic clutch action, binding cables etc, by just following this simple procedure. Don't overthink things. If you don't believe me , just remove the washer pack and slide the quadrant all the way to one side or the other. You will notice the increase pressure required to overcome the side loading alone.
    84 Cougar, 90 HO with 700DP, Edelbrock RPM intake, 1.7 RRs, shorty's and SS exh, T-5, KC clutch, Hurst pro billet, line loc, 8.8, 4.10s, suspension mods....blah, blah,blah.

    71 Comet, 289, Liberty TL, 9", 6.00s, 11.9x @ 112.... blah, blah, blah.

  11. #11

    Default

    That is interesting. I was looking under the dash at mine, and the quadrant seems to be sitting all the way at the edge of the shaft up against the clip, and seems to be held there tightly somehow. There is a big space between it and where the shaft enters the pedal bracket.

    Unfortunately, I couldn't get a good look at where the cable enters its housing at the firewall. One of the clutch switches is very much in the way. Hopefully I can contort myself in such a way to be able to see that once I do the swap. Definitely going to remove the seat for that.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  12. #12

    Default

    Brad,

    To check the alignment, remove the cable at the firewall end, look through the center of the firewall adjuster into the car. You will be able to see if the groove in the quadrant is not centered.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  13. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    Brad,

    To check the alignment, remove the cable at the firewall end, look through the center of the firewall adjuster into the car. You will be able to see if the groove in the quadrant is not centered.
    Perfect, thanks!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  14. #14

    Default

    Hey, check this out. Not sure how it happened, but nevertheless, there it is. Contributing factor to a stiff clutch?

    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  15. #15

    Default

    Is the ID of the bearing deformed at all? If it is, then it won't slide smoothly on the quill of the transmission. There may be witness marks on the OD of the quill or the ID of the bearing.

    When installing the new throwout bearing, make sure to fill the wide groove on the ID of the bearing with grease.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  16. #16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    Is the ID of the bearing deformed at all? If it is, then it won't slide smoothly on the quill of the transmission. There may be witness marks on the OD of the quill or the ID of the bearing.

    When installing the new throwout bearing, make sure to fill the wide groove on the ID of the bearing with grease.
    I greased the crap out of the new throwout bearing. As for whether the inside diameter on the old one is deformed, not as far as I can see. It's discolored for sure though.

    Here's looking into the clutch cable hole in the firewall.



    Definitely off center, but it's also sitting right at the end of the shaft. So, I'm not sure what to do about that. I had to enlarge the hole way back when I first installed my old firewall adjuster. I may have accidentally drilled it off center, I don't know. It's also possible the whole booster/master cylinder/brake pedal bracket assembly is kitty whampus because I had to slot holes to get the GIANT '94 booster to fit in the car. You name it, I've changed it on this car.
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 08-08-2019 at 06:56 PM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  17. #17

    Default

    Brad,

    The MM firewall adjuster uses two screws to hold it to the firewall. This would enable you to move the firewall adjuster into the correct location on the firewall, then drill holes for the mounting screws to put it in the correct location. You might have to enlarge the hole in the firewall to do this.

    You'd need to start with the firewall adjuster installed on the firewall. Then put a piece of tubing through the center of the firewall adjuster. This tubing needs to have the same OD as the ID of the firewall adjuster. Slide it in a couple of inches. Have someone put a light under the dash up high, so that you can look through the tube to see the alignment of the groove at the hook on the quadrant. Move the firewall adjuster around as needed to get the alignment correct.

    With the amount of misalignment that I think I see in your photo, that is going to kill cables quickly and add a lot of friction.

    With the MM firewall adjuster, a 3/4" piece of tubing would fit fairly tightly. The ID is 0.764". You could wrap it with a layer or two of Scocth tape if needed.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  18. #18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    Brad,

    The MM firewall adjuster uses two screws to hold it to the firewall. This would enable you to move the firewall adjuster into the correct location on the firewall, then drill holes for the mounting screws to put it in the correct location. You might have to enlarge the hole in the firewall to do this.

    You'd need to start with the firewall adjuster installed on the firewall. Then put a piece of tubing through the center of the firewall adjuster. This tubing needs to have the same OD as the ID of the firewall adjuster. Slide it in a couple of inches. Have someone put a light under the dash up high, so that you can look through the tube to see the alignment of the groove at the hook on the quadrant. Move the firewall adjuster around as needed to get the alignment correct.

    With the amount of misalignment that I think I see in your photo, that is going to kill cables quickly and add a lot of friction.

    With the MM firewall adjuster, a 3/4" piece of tubing would fit fairly tightly. The ID is 0.764". You could wrap it with a layer or two of Scocth tape if needed.
    Great idea! Yeah, no reason I couldn't ream out that hole if I need to. I will do that, thank you! Can't wait to have a nice smooth clutch pedal!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  19. #19

    Default

    Okay, so this picture doesn't really do it justice (best way I could think of to do it), but using the tubing method and enlarging the hole, I was able to get the firewall adjuster right where it needs to be!



    I should also mention using MM's suggested method of installing the quadrant onto the shaft that's part of the clutch pedal FIRST, before the one it pivots on, everything slid together easily! I remember the last time I installed a quadrant it being a real bear. I also noticed that the clutch pedal was rubbing on the body bracket early foxes had from before quadrants were factory. Not sure how I didn't notice that before, but my dash and pedal brackets have been in and out SEVERAL times since I've had the car. I fixed that problem with a little "massaging" of the bracket. Anyway, good progress today!

    Here's a comparison between my old BBK quadrant and the new MM one. Pretty interesting!

    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 08-10-2019 at 05:49 PM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  20. #20

    Default

    The BBK quadrant is designed to be used with an adjustable cable. The MM quadrant is designed to be used with a nonadjustable cable.

    I don't understand why so many companies machine the quadrant backwards. It makes installation so much more difficult.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  21. #21

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    The BBK quadrant is designed to be used with an adjustable cable. The MM quadrant is designed to be used with a nonadjustable cable.

    I don't understand why so many companies machine the quadrant backwards. It makes installation so much more difficult.
    Interesting, well I wonder if it liked having a factory cable on there. I got my old cable second hand and the seller didn't know what it was, but I'm fairly sure it was a factory one given it's similarities to the new MM one.

    You ain't kiddin' about that!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  22. #22

    Default

    Alright, so I'm starting to work on this, and I thought it might be helpful if I had a spec for where the surface of the flywheel should be relative to the clutch fork/throwout bearing (how far it should stick out from the back of the engine? How far it is from the rear of the bellhousing?). And how high the clutch fork pivot ball should be relative to the inside of the bellhousing. I got my T-5 used, so who knows what was going on with the car it was in before. I have to pull the stupid transmission back out to fix the engine leak, so I might as well check that these things are in the optimal place. My flywheel is new (is it even worth checking?), and I've never adjusted the pivot ball, but then again I didn't really know anything about proper adjustment for this stuff, I just slapped it together when i first got it, and was therefore rewarded with a stiff, heavy pedal.

    Secondly, just another question to make sure. At first when I put the system all together, even with using the cable to quadrant spacer that comes with the Maximum Motorsports quadrant, my clutch pedal was very floppy, I had to adjust the firewall spacer out quite a bit to get tension on it. Considering all otherwise stock components, is that typical with MM cable, firewall adjuster, and quadrant?

    Also, it's worth mentioning here, I bought a new Valeo clutch kit, the part number 52672006 "High Clamp Load, Low Pedal Effort" version. I noticed that Mustangs Unlimited call the Valeo 62672004 the "King Cobra Clutch", but Rockauto has that one listed as "High Clamp Load, High Pedal Effort". Why would anyone want high pedal effort?! So, I chose the former. My old pressure plate actually did have some hot spots on it, so I might as well replace the clutch as long as I'm in there. Make me feel a bit better about having to do all that work pulling the trans all over again, anyway.

    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  23. #23
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    First, since you are tearing everything apart again, what condition is your pivot ball stud in? If it is worn, then now is the time to replace it.

    If using essentially a stock OEM setup, with a good pivot ball you most likely will not need to shim or adjust the pivot ball stud. If you believe you need to adjust the stud position, then an adjustable pivot stud such as this: https://www.maximummotorsports.com/P...ble-P1245.aspx would be an excellent choice.

    When using the MM clutch cable and quadrant kit, in my experience you do have to thread the firewall adjust out a reasonable amount to get rid of the play. To my knowledge this is due to the MM clutch cable being longer than the OEM and standard replacement cables.

    I am not sure if there are any actual specification for some of your questions. Unfortunately all too often the heavy or stiff clutch pedal is due to a worn pivot ball stud, worn out or turned down flywheel, crappy clutch cable, and/or a crappy clutch/pressure plate combo. I have had pretty good luck over the years with Valeo clutch as stock replacements, so that should provide a better clutch pedal feel than average. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  24. #24

    Default

    Yeah, I don't have reason to think my pivot ball needs adjusting. I was just thinking in case it had been previously adjusted or shimmed and needs putting back or something. How would I know if it's out too far or whatever. But if it should be obvious, like say if there's a shim there or it's been changed for an adjustable one, I guess that's as good as anything.

    I'm not in there quite yet, but I don't remember noticing it being messed up. I'll know soon for sure.

    Thanks for the input on the firewall adjuster and clutch kit.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 09-30-2019 at 09:08 PM.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  25. #25

    Default

    Brad,

    All of the parts in a clutch system are some form of a lever. The quadrant, the clutch fork, the pressure plate. The loads in the PP are extremely high. This results in some amount of flex in the structure of the PP. This flexing results in more pedal travel being required to disengage the clutch.

    When the 1993 Mustang Cobra was designed, Ford decided that they wanted less clutch pedal effort. They had Valeo (OEM division) redesign the PP so that it had an increased clamp load, but also required less input force to move the friction surface a given distance. I believe that they did this by changing the cover design to increase its stiffness. I suspect that this raised the part price, because Ford never started selling this as a replacement for all of the other 10.5" PP applications.

    After this, Ford Racing had Valeo (aftermarket division) build a 10.5" PP with greater clamp load to increase the torque capacity. I believe that the clamp load went from 1,950lbs to 2,600lbs. This increased the torque capacity about 35%. I suspect that Ford Racing didn't care about the increased pedal effort. This clutch is what is called the Ford Motorsport HD clutch. Later they had Valeo revise the cover, to keep the clamp load the same, but decrease the pedal effort 10%. This part became the King Cobra Clutch. It has nothing to do with the 1993 Mustang Cobra clutch.

    No sane person wants a high effort clutch. Surprisingly, some people think that if the clutch isn't stiff, it is going to slip and won't buy it.

    The distance from the back of the block to the friction surface on the flywheel is almost never going to vary, even with aftermarket parts, and it won't affect the amount of slack in the cable that much anyways.

    The clutch pedal itself has a lever ratio of around 3.5:1. The PP has a ratio of about 3:1. This means that for every inch the tip of the fingers move, the friction surface moves 0.33". Because of this, very small changes in the installed height of the clutch fingers, makes a significant difference in the height of the fingers and therefore the cable tension. From the quadrant to the friction surface, the system has a ratio of about 10:1, so a 0.050" variation in the thickness of the friction disc, changes the slack in the cable by 0.5".

    The ball stud does need to be setup correctly so that the fork is at right angles to the input shaft at mid pedal travel. This minimizes friction in the system, keeps certain parts from getting bent and makes the pedal as linear as possible.

    How far the firewall adjuster needs to be unscrewed from the firewall for the correct cable tension is irrelevant. As long as you can get it tensioned properly there is no problem. As the clutch wears, the adjuster needs to be screwed into the firewall, so there could never be a problem.

    Make sure to grease the ball stud pivot, ID of the throwout bearing (it has a pocket designed to be packed with grease) and the splines on the input shaft. Honda sells a good high temperature grease for this application.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

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