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  1. #26

    Default

    If you've got a Holley blue, what you heard from whoever about gravity feeding is correct... to mount it at or below fuel tank level, because it's a "pusher" pump more-so than a "puller". Tank exit lines up, down, or sideways, no issue, rubber line bends... steel lines can be bent too...

    Fairly certain there's no "pusher" in-tank electric fuel pump in a 1980...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  2. #27

    Default 302 EFI to carb (car isn't EFI)

    Go ahead and mount the pump to the frame as low as you can get it.
    My pump is about even with the seam on the tank but in my car the pickup goes in a hole in the top of the tank so the pump has to pull fuel up from the bottom no matter where the pump is located.

    You don’t need tat purolator pump. Probably the pump on the old engine quit and that was a bandaid

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #28

    Default

    Thanks guys, I realized I was just way overthinking it. I have some angle iron and I figured out what I'm going to do with it.

    Once I get all the fuel lines hooked up, I just have to do the ignition stuff and she should run! (hopefully)

  4. #29

    Default

    Alright so I desperately need some help here because I'm about to lose my mind. The car starts and runs, BUT, the idle doesn't want to kick down that much, and also when I go to drive the car it just keeps dying. After it dies it doesn't really want to start again and I have no clue what the hell I'm doing.

    I've tried adjusting the air/fuel (I set them to 1 1/2 turns out from all the way in and adjusted from there), idle screw, and the fast idle thing, and nothing really seems to be working (I honestly don't really understand how carburetors work besides the basics of them). Any suggestions on where I should start? Air/fuel? idle?

    I feel like the car is pulling too much air in, because when I go to give it gas it dies, but the vacuum lines all have hoses on them so I don't think it's leaking there?

  5. #30

    Default

    Start by checking for vacuum leaks,
    Spray carb cleaner around the base of the carb and on the vacuum hoses, if idle changes you’ve got a leak.

    Next check fuel pressure and float level, my car did exactly what yours is doing, was a cracked cap on a vacuum port and floats set too low.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #31

    Default

    Hi Airdale,

    AldeanFan is right about the vacuum leaks. Those need to be eliminated before attempting anything else.

    Adjusting the idle screws takes a little practice. There are a couple of ways. The 1 1/2 turn out is just where you get started.

    The basic way is to use a vacuum gage and adjust the screws for maximum vacuum. With the engine warmed up and the vacuum gage hooked to manifold vacuum, set the idle to about 800 rpm. With a 7/64 ball end hex, you can adjust the screws. They should all be adjusted the same. Mine, with the original cam, will pull 20.5" Hg. A bigger cam will be less.

    JA Cook has posted several times about using propane enrichment to fine tune the adjustment:

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...hlight=propane

    Your adjustment will vary with the type of gas and your elevation.
    W

    As always, "It ain't what you don't know that gets you, it's what you think you know that just ain't so."

  7. #32

    Default

    Thank you guys!

    I did forget to post an update though. The problem was I'm a raging moron and never actually set the timing

    Now I just have to figure out why my brakes are trash and why the bleeder valves are blowing fluid out the threads

  8. #33

    Default

    Glad you got it running!
    Good luck with the brakes


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