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  1. #1

    Default Canton Oil Pan Painting or Powder Coating

    My new Canton Oil pan looks great with the argent gold color but it will not last.
    I have an excellent Powder Coat shop I use but I am darn worried about sand blasting an oil pan. Something about sand and oil system don't sound good regardless of how much you think you've cleaned it. My oil pan has crank scrappers and oil trap doors; so there is a lot of places for sand to hide. I mention sand blasting because all parts in the shop get sand blasted to help with cleanliness and power adhesion.

    So, can this new out of the box Canton pan be scuffed with a scotch pad and powder coated without sandblasting it??

    PS if you powder coat, checkout "Ancient Viking Metal" A really cool color that matches my Ford Racing valve covers!

    Thank you all!

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I don't believe a Scothbrite pad will work for powder coating.

    There are other products by 3M, Norton, etc. that will allow you to strip the gold off the oil pan and give you enough bite on the oil pan for powder to stick.

    If you have an old engine, you might consider mounting the pan on that engine to help prevent any debris from getting inside the pan itself. Same could be done for blasting too, although definitely a bit heavier and bulky. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

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  3. #3
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
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    It's a coating and will prob not play well with another coating on top
    Also I agree about your concern with contaminate especially yours sounds very busy internally

    You may be able to soda blast it also I believe that gold coating is a E coat

    You could grab a piece of flat material and layout the holes and tap them to duplicate how it mounts to the motor but your crank lip side will be wide open unless you get creative

    Old engine as stated above is your best less hassle option and it being mounted will help distortion if any with high pressure sand banging on it

  4. #4

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    So if you are just painting it Ford blue (not my favorite), I would get a good epoxy primer, clean the pan well (no scuffing), shoot the epoxy, then before it dries totally, top coat it in whatever paint you want to use.

    Good luck.

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Or just get you a can of 2-part engine paint from Eastwood and call it a day.

  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudgepondexpress View Post
    So if you are just painting it Ford blue (not my favorite), I would get a good epoxy primer, clean the pan well (no scuffing), shoot the epoxy, then before it dries totally, top coat it in whatever paint you want to use.

    Good luck.
    Quote Originally Posted by Broncojunkie View Post
    Or just get you a can of 2-part engine paint from Eastwood and call it a day.
    Either of these options may work fine, but I would still at least recommend a self etching primer before any other coatings. Epoxy is great stuff since it's essentially a glue, but still having a mechanical adhesion in addition to a chemical bond is always the best way to guarantee long term results. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    I think if you RTV around gasket surface, using thick plastic sheeting
    to cover opening, then blast it upside down, should be OK.

    When done, hold pan up in the air with open area always facing down,
    until you are 100% convinced everything is cleaned up.

    I used POR-15 on my last modified (for road racing) pan.
    Supposed to be good to 450, will see how it holds up.
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
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    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

  8. #8

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    For once I can actually be helpful as I sandblast and powder coat stuff regularly. First off you would never blast/coat the inside of the oil pan as that should just be bare metal so it's pretty simple you just tape the entire bottom of the oil pan off with the high temp tape BEFORE you put it in the blast cabinet to blast it. Make sure you just run tape across the entire bottom of the pan and also cover the gasket mating surface because you def don't want that etched or blasted or powdered either. If you have some really nice drain plugs you don't want to get all blasted/etched take them out and buy some cheap ones to cover all the drain holes while blasting/coating. Once you got it all taped off and ALL holes covered just take it up and have it blasted/coated. I actually ended up restoring the factory pan on my 85' and it looks amazing (Painted "Jack Black").

    Here is a link to the tape you need to use. I get it from the place I buy my powder but you can order it online. Not really sure where it's sold locally:
    https://www.amazon.com/Polyester-Tap...gateway&sr=8-3
    1997 Mustang Cobra - Very First Car
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