the rear tires stick out better with the longer axles
the rear tires stick out better with the longer axles
2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
Past 4 eyes-
4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
U.S. NAVY 1980-2009
Allright I have known about this car since 2001-2002. Was a kids car well into the low 11s when he blew a head off (dont ask) and sold it to an acquaintance. The car was my intro in a capri and also a fast capri. But never for sale...got the call 3 months ago and been waiting on pictures. Going to daily it while the 85 goes under the knife. Then resto it as well.
Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
1985 Mustang Canadian Cobra
It ain't Pretty but it doesn't care
Took a ride in it today. Nice day to get out.
Break in new pads a little.
Picked up salvaged parts for seat belt latch/button. Field repair in parking lot there successful. Cost 1.00.
Drove to hobby store few miles away.
While parking, brake pedal went to floor. Leak in FT RT brake line near fenderwell. Fluid drip on ground.
Nursed it home 32 miles, keeping under 30 mph, route with least traffic lights, multi lane, back roads. Made it fine.
Bought brake fluid. Not needed. At least i know the rear brakes work as usual. Lock up, pull on hard stops.
And thought earlier how nice the brakes felt and stopped again......
I had a couple leaks show up over the winter. Timing cover and steering rack. The rear main started to weep last year, so in order to do them all a little easier I just pulled the engine out. The engine is currently on a stand with rear main seal changed. I need to do the timing cover and oil pan next, then change the steering rack and tie rod ends. Then just reassembly and test firing before the start of driving season.
Attachment 126983
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'86 Hatchback V6 / Auto Restomod (For Sale)
I have not done a thing to mine for maybe 3-4 years. It's been off the road for about 16 years now.... Just too busy with work and stuff but I cannot bring myself to sell it.
I did do work to the Toro zero-turn mower though....
'83 GT T-top, RHD, JG-33 360ci, IRS (in progress)
'51 F1, hot rod (in progress) - need 400M!!
I am in Australia and do not have access to the parts or junkyards that most others in the USA have. Parts may be obtained from the USA but shipping them can be a hassle for everyone - and expensive - so I need to do things right the first time
I drove it for the first time this year! Also looked at the 1986 Capri I was offered. Real Rs but really crunchy. Price is goodish but a bit far gone to save. Debating. Comes with 2 t5s, driveshaft and extra junk. It's sad to see it in its current state. I remember it with Aluminum heads, t5, 4:10s and some snarl.
Oh well ratty beater Capri time.
Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
1985 Mustang Canadian Cobra
It ain't Pretty but it doesn't care
This past week we did a bunch of work ripping out old door panels and speaker pods and putting in new TMI door panels using the correct hardware, etc. Also replaced the drivers door striker and lock actuators and used stuff from my spare parts stash to restore the power lock switches, etc
had to use a UT knife and scrape about 1/16” off the striker plastic to get it to go into and come out of the door latch jaws properly. Stupid aftermarket crap! Got the door adjusted so the body line is nice again. there’s some rust in the area so welding is in our future but it’s ok for now.....
Bought a 1/4” rivet gun and put a door handle back in place the correct way for once on Glidethunder’s 86GT ragtop
cant find the picture of the drivers side right now but here’s the car
Last edited by erratic50; 03-23-2019 at 09:45 PM.
Replaced the stock 1 5/16" front sway bar with the MM 1 1/8" tubular piece. Removed EGR valve and installed a block off plate. Also removed smog pump mounting tabs off the alternator bracket.
Jeremiah
1986 Mustang GT 5spd, 3.27's
PimpXS ECU/Android Single DIN Touchscreen
SN95 Cobra Brakes/SN95 Front LCA's/Axles/S197 Wheels
1998 Explorer Engine/Stock HO Cam 281rwhp/326rwtq
A week or so ago, I bought a new set of chrome lug nuts for the Rotter.
Yesterday after work, I swapped out the mis-matched set that was on the car for the new ones.
I'm looking forward to some warmer weather and cleaner roads (still salt residue on the local roads by my house).
JT
1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
1986 SVO Mustang - 1C
My boys and I took a 320 mile round trip today in the Saleen to here..... to see this in person .....
Last edited by wraithracing; 03-28-2019 at 07:41 AM. Reason: Fix Pictures
67 Mustang Coupe
96 Tangerine GT
86 Saleen #179
Can someone fix the pictures for me please? I’ve wanted to see the real car in person for a very long time now. Read a bunch of articles in magazines for years about it. But to see it in person finally was a real treat for me today.
67 Mustang Coupe
96 Tangerine GT
86 Saleen #179
I took mine out for a drive today, first time this year. I was thinking I might have to boost the battery as I didn't have it on a tender this winter but she fired right up.
408/T5/3.73's
We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.
Trey
"I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"
"I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."
Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
Current Mustangs:
1969 Mach 1
1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently
Current Capris:
1981 Capri Roller
1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
Sweatshirt weather day. Temp in the 60's till dark. Sunny, dry, perfect for outside car repair.
Celebrated owning the Ranger 25 years by chasing parts for the car. Car was down that day too.
Gosh, glad am not really superstitious about the parts totaling 6.66. Devil, October build car, black/orange..
Removed old brake line. RT FT to caliper. Leak was under the frame rail section.
Due to many bends, routing, and length, decided to cut, then flare in a 40" section. The rest is good.
Splice will be above the heater hose area.
40 year old brake line nut came off fine from the brake hose.
First off, cut the damaged line flush at flare nut with snips, then removed nut with socket.
No spray was needed. 5 minutes, no jack, foam ground pads, wheel turned full left lock for access.
Firewall end of the tubing was cut with a 1" cutoff disk, on flex shaft connected to B&D RTX rotary tool, low speed.
Tool is too big to get a clean square cut with the little wheel. Using the flex shaft worked perfectly. 30 sec.
Slid new flare nut on, finish up on another warm day next week. Trial fit of union was fine.
Used old line and ruler to bend new AGS PA-340 line. Nice stuff, easy to work by hand or with a good bending tool.
Capped open ends of lines. Line is temp connected to caliper hose.
Now to practice double flaring on the old line that was cut out, since that steel is what will be flared on the car.
Never did flaring, a skill looking forward to practice at then apply. Bought new Lisle 3/16" double flare die.
Master cyl never went dry.
Last edited by gr79; 03-28-2019 at 11:24 PM.
Continued wiring, plumbing and fabricating to get this fired up!
Was trolling on the internet as usual when realized it was nice out this afternoon.
Shut the pc down and got outside to practice double flaring a brake line i cut at the firewall.
Read enough tips and viewed pics to go for it. Never did a tubing flare before.
Came out fine. No cracking, flare is centered, correct shape. 3 hours spent including delay.
Tools, supplies:
Fresh coffee, etc.
Lisle 3/16" die, std flare tool, small flat and round files, magnifying glass, air tool oil.
Confirmed the yoke tool cone was 45° with magnetic angle tool.
Pretty sure it was grampa's tool, Mde in USA Imperial Brass, Chicago.
He got a good one, but did not work on cars, so had to verify it was the right type tool for this.
Deburred tube ID with 1/8" round file, flat file on OD. Magnify glass to inspect.
Touched up outside of tube with emery cloth, then inserted a 3/16" flare fitting onto tube.
Clamped line and set stick out per instructions. The die sat a little crooked. Squared up cut better with flat file.
Then the glitch. 1 hour delay.
Tool did not fit onto clamp when flare die was in place.
When assembling tool with die in place, the yoke slots would not reach all the way to lock onto the clamp.
Needed to figure out what to do. Dang. Was not going to rent, nor buy another tool.
Needed more clearance. Grind the yoke slots? No way. Irreversible mod. Hmm cone will not retract enough.
Decided to grind down 1/8" of the yoke throat, so the screw and cone could be backed out for more clearance.
The safer mod. Plenty of material left, did not ruin the tool, plus it worked.
Oiled both ends of die and tip of cone, wiggled the die while slowly snugging down for the flares. Was easy to do, no vice.
Touched up the new flare with the files, cleaned flare area with shop rag.
Passed the magnifying glass inspection test and trial fit to the union.
Also tightened new line to caliper hose fitting.
Bent new line day before using the old line as the template.
Now to final cut 6" or so off the old line, flare, connect to new line, bleed caliper, test drive.
Last decision is where to cut line for splice connection. Have 1-2 inches cut leeway to keep the new line to caliper routed correctly .
Last edited by gr79; 04-01-2019 at 12:39 PM.
Caught on Instagram daily driving to the supermarket :
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bvj9_SMHC3V/
Mike
My '78 Fairmont build - http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...539-78-Big-Red
well I bought a complete 90 dash that im going to install in my 86 capri, and also dropped of my complete harness to have them all work with the different years that I have.... I just didnt want to mess with the chance of frying my new A9L
2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
Past 4 eyes-
4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
U.S. NAVY 1980-2009
Installed a MM clutch quadrant and cable this week.
Jeremiah
1986 Mustang GT 5spd, 3.27's
PimpXS ECU/Android Single DIN Touchscreen
SN95 Cobra Brakes/SN95 Front LCA's/Axles/S197 Wheels
1998 Explorer Engine/Stock HO Cam 281rwhp/326rwtq
Last week, replaced water pump and added bigger radiator to the 82 GT, replaced fuel pump and battery on 79. This weekend, got everything together to reinstall rebuilt C4 in the 79 hatch. Will be replacing radiator, motor and trans mounts. If I have time, new brakes all around, tune up and valve cover gasket. Then a little body prep and new paint but that's a few weeks away as I am in the final stages of prep work on a 1966 Fairlane GT convertible.
Never enough hours in a day.
Back to work and I'm on the river for 2 weeks. Bummer, since I've finally made some leeway on the pace car (and also got my 88gt put back together last week). I got to drive them just down the road and back, so that's better than nothing. Of course, I'm missing the 2nd meet with the local club tomorrow.
But on the brighter side, a buddy messaged me the other day and he was having trouble with his 86 coupe 3.8. Alternator overcharging. He has been a little fed up with it lately, since it's his daily driver. He asked me what I would give him and I guess it was a good enough number. It's now sitting in my driveway. I haven't actually seen the car yet. The plan is for it to replace my current 86 coupe drag project. So much work needed on mine and this one is rust free and straight.
Painted black at some point. Blue interior. It will be light regatta blue when I'm finished with it.
Perfect spring day, sunny 70's for outside work on car.
Final measure, cut, flare, splice connection of old brake line to new 40" RF brake line.
Test drive. All is well. Brake pedal up and firm again.
Missed driving it for 16 days.
drove it today to a car show and won first place for all original
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