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  1. #1

    Default Front lower control arm bushings

    I am trying to find stock replacement front lower control arm bushings without the metal shells, but it seems all I can find on rockauto and other sites is either rubber with a metal shell or prothane aftermarket bushings, the roads are terrible around here so I was hoping to stick with rubber. Thanks for any help or direction!

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The rubber is bonded to the metal shells, so I don't believe you will be able to find just regular rubber bushings.

    The urethane will not increase the ride harshness that much IMHO if you still want to just swap bushings. Otherwise you might consider going with a set of these. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-3079A-K/Mus...-Arm-Kit-79-93
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3

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    Well for the price difference of new arms I'd rather just go urethane...which company or brand of urethane is recommended, I've read a few posts about having to trim control arm bushings down? Thanks again!

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I generally buy Prothane, but Energy Suspension works just fine too.

    I will just mention that bad and poor quality replacement ball joints can cause major NVH in the front suspension. For the Fox models the later model aero ball joint is the best option, but the supply has essentially dried up. Since that is the case, I highly recommend using the SN95 ball joint even in the Foxes.

    You ONLY want the OEM Ford F4ZZ-3050-B low friction ball joint. You can purchase them from Ford, Maximum Motorsports, online and others, but again make sure they are OEM Ford and not aftermarket crap. You will need to use a hardened spacer with the nylon lock nuts as the castle nut of the Fox will not work. Other than that they are a bolt in upgrade for the Four Eyes! Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Rock Auto or parts geek (can’t remember which one) has new control arms with new bushings and balljoints for $90 each.

    Time is money — the new ones are a great time saver!

    On my 85 build I had Trey press out the crappy fox style balljoints and install SN95 low friction units from Maxinum Motorsports.


    When I rebuilt my 86GT I went through the hassle of fighting with bushings and balljoints. Not worth it!

    I went with SN95 spindles and an X2 balljoint on my 86GT to help with bumpsteer when doing the conversion. Far less friction than the old fox balljoints. Not sure I’ll bother with X2’s again though. Ended up needing to bumpsteer the car and buy a bumpsteer kit from MM anyway

  6. #6

    Default

    If I wasn’t doing a 5-lug swap I could see just buying the new arms, but I’ll have to press out the Fox ball joint and put in the sn95 ball joint. I’ll save a few bucks and go with prothane bushings and cleanup my old arms. Thanks for the help!


    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Rock Auto or parts geek (can’t remember which one) has new control arms with new bushings and balljoints for $90 each.

    Time is money — the new ones are a great time saver!

    On my 85 build I had Trey press out the crappy fox style balljoints and install SN95 low friction units from Maxinum Motorsports.


    When I rebuilt my 86GT I went through the hassle of fighting with bushings and balljoints. Not worth it!

    I went with SN95 spindles and an X2 balljoint on my 86GT to help with bumpsteer when doing the conversion. Far less friction than the old fox balljoints. Not sure I’ll bother with X2’s again though. Ended up needing to bumpsteer the car and buy a bumpsteer kit from MM anyway

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    New balljoints press out MUCH easier than crusty old ones...... that’s what we did for my 85 build


    other thoughts — you could go to an SN95 arm. it would widen the car’s stance (about 3/8- 5/8” per side?) and lower it due to longer lever length of the arm vs the same spring.

    2ndChanceCobra runs an entire 95 Mustang K member and arms under his 79. It’s a full 3/4” wider per side which is a bit wide with a normal 94-04 wheel offset. It would work well with 05+ wheels, SVO wheels, etc. Shane used camber bolts top and bottom to get the negative camber in range I believe he said. I had to do that on my 86GT to get to -1.75 with the struts centered and caster maxed out because I used X2 balljoints

    The newer K members are wider when measured A arm bolt to A arm bolt than the earlier cars. There’s a write up that details the revisions.

    But an SN95 arm on a Four Eyed Fox works for certain use cases perfectly with the right wheels because it is wider

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