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  1. #1

    Default 1984 GT Stalling, Shutting Off

    Ok guys, just when I though I had something fixed it comes back with a vengeance. I have a 5.0 AOD 84 GT. I have replaced the following:
    Spark Plugs, Wires, Engine Coolant temp sensor, MAF sensor, Ign coil, distributor cap and rotor, EGR Valve, and fuel filter. What I am chasing is the car intermittently shuts off, stalls when I am at stopped. Engine is warmed up. I have to put in neutral and hit the gas to keep it running. Sounds like it misses sometimes when foot is on gas pedal trying to keep it running. But while I am at speed it doesn't. I changed plugs and wires hoping that was gonna fix it. It did not. Not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions? This fuel injection motor is a lot more complicated than the carb motor 5.0 I previously owned. Any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2

    Default

    That would be map sensor right? I would try the Pip next if I were you. Super easy but you do need to pull the gear off the distributor to do it. Can you tell us the error codes? Pip would throw an error.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  3. #3

    Default

    Yes, my typo it was a MAP sensor. What is a PIP? I will check code.

  4. #4

    Default

    Pip is the sensor inside the distributor. Simple but tough placement.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    Nebraska
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    Default

    Reman / new distributor is much easier generally. Make sure the seals in the distributor are ok while you are checking stuff. Oil residue will cause a pip / ignition stator (whatever term you prefer) malfunction.

  6. #6

    Default

    Be super careful looking for a reman if you go that way, I tried 5 different distributors from different manufacturers, even a 400 dollar top end job, and none of them were correct for the car. The problem is the TFI in 1984 has a roughly 8mm shorter shaft than the later models and didn't exist on earlier cars. Eventually I was forced to just reuse mine after replacing the pip. Even getting a new gear was difficult since they don't make a cast gear with that inner diameter any more.

    but do check your codes before you do anything, pip would show up if that is the problem. TFI could also be flaky but that should show a code too.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    That’s a good point. Forgot that there is a length difference
    -- James

    Favorite thing I’ve said that’s been requoted: “"40 year old beercan on wheels with too much motor"

    My four eyed foxes:
    "Trigger" - 86 Mustang GT - Black with red interior. 5.0 T5 built as Z. Original motor ~1/2 million miles. 18 yr daily, 10 a toy
    "Silver" - 85 Mustang Saleen 1985-006? (Lol) Rare 1E silver GT / charcoal interior. The car is a little bit of a mystery. Current project bought as a roller, tons of Saleen / Racecraft pedigree

    Also in the stable - my son’s car. 1986 Mustang GT Convertible. Black/Black/Black conversion. 93 leather. VM1 ECU. T5Z

    past foxes -
    1989 Mustang LX Sport 5.0 AOD white/tan black top. Once I ran this one down I caught a wife.
    Wife also had a 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe in the 90's.

    I'm a four eyed pride supporter, are you? Become one today!
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  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
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    721

    Default

    Seems like it might be more of an air/fuel than spark thing, but I would definitely check for codes as mentioned. When the PIP and/or ignition module in my car crapped out it would just stall once it got warm enough as you were driving down the road. It also wouldn't restart until everything cooled down sufficiently (15-20 minutes). I know you say it is intermittent, but I would also check for vacuum leaks or just replace any vacuum hoses you can find (might just be easier), if you have any doubts about the integrity of the hoses.

    This guy had a similar issue albeit with a different ignition system. Might be some nuggets of information in there for you although it doesn't look like he really every notes what (if anything) fixed it.
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...great-at-speed

    This might have some good info for you to dig through as well:
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...n-84-CFI-setup
    Last edited by KevinVarnes; 01-28-2019 at 11:01 PM.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
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