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Thread: Clutch linkage

  1. #1

    Default Clutch linkage

    Has anyone used a Z-bar clutch linkage in place of the cable on their Fox Body? If so, did you change the clutch fork? What modifications were necessary on the clutch pedal?

  2. #2

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    There likely isn't a corresponding spot on the frame rail to anchor the z-bar pivot nor the correct under dash pedal linkage geometry to make this work. Anything is possible if you want to cut, weld and fabricate but there really isn't any point. Z-bar linkage has many parts and they all need to work in harmony. Lots of points of failure. What makes you want to consider this option?
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  3. #3
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    Name:  E5345BD1-11BA-40BC-9CBD-A2FDFE65FD83.jpg
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Size:  85.4 KBOn my 78 Fairmont drag car, with a 428 FE engine, when I converted it from an automatic to a 4 speed Jerico transmission, I made my own mechanical clutch linkage, basically copying the linkage from my old 74 F350. I used a clutch Z bar from a similar truck and retained the original 4 cylinder clutch pedal from my Fairmont. I repositioned the lever on the Fairmont clutch pedal that normally is where the clutch cable attaches, 90 degrees so that the lever points straight ahead toward the firewall, and replaced the cable pin with a bolt. I made a rod with 2 rod ends, that connects the pedal lever to the Z bar. This rod went straight down and through the floor, just like a Ford pickup truck. Not a really great photo, but the Z bar can be seen in this photo. On the engine side, I used a stock pivot bracket from a 360/ 390 PU truck, and on the body side, I welded a truck pivot ball to a piece of flat steel plate,then welded that plate to the Fairmonts stock frame rail. It has worked great for almost 20 years now.
    1978 Fairmont 2 door sedan, 428CJ 4speed. 9.972ET@132.54mph. 1.29 60 foot
    Replaced the FE big block with my 331/4 speed in my Fairmont, best 10.24ET @128 MPH.
    1985 Mustang LX hatchback NHRA Stock Eliminator 302 4 speed best in legal trim 12.31@107 mph, but has gone 11.42@115 with aftermarket intake, carb, and iron Windsor Jr. heads.New for 2012! 331 cube SB Ford, AFR 185 heads, solid flat tappet cam, pump gas; 10.296ET@128.71 mph, 1.37 60 foot.
    1979 Zephyr Z7, all original 302 auto, 2nd owner.

  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member
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    And by the way, I used a "push" style clutch fork from the same Ford truck application. Since a stock FOX uses a clutch cable, in a "pull" configuration, to retain that stock setup with mechanical clutch linkage, would require making a clutch linkage that pulls from the rear. Not sure how you would accomplish that with a Z Bar. A buddy did have custom mechanical clutch linkage made that did do just that, but rather than a Z bar, they used a fabricated clutch pedal than was came up from under the floor, with a length of tubing welded to the pedal, with a lever on the other end, than was located behind the stock style clutch fork. A rod connected the lever to the clutch fork. On my 85 Mustang, with the 331 SBF, I used the early style Fox clutch cable setup (pre quadrant version), and after mounting the cable away from the longtube headers, and wrapping a close area with aluminum foil, never had any issues with the cable. Although I do prefer the more solid feel of the mechanical linkage, I don`t think that I would have spent the time building it for a small block. The cable works pretty good.
    1978 Fairmont 2 door sedan, 428CJ 4speed. 9.972ET@132.54mph. 1.29 60 foot
    Replaced the FE big block with my 331/4 speed in my Fairmont, best 10.24ET @128 MPH.
    1985 Mustang LX hatchback NHRA Stock Eliminator 302 4 speed best in legal trim 12.31@107 mph, but has gone 11.42@115 with aftermarket intake, carb, and iron Windsor Jr. heads.New for 2012! 331 cube SB Ford, AFR 185 heads, solid flat tappet cam, pump gas; 10.296ET@128.71 mph, 1.37 60 foot.
    1979 Zephyr Z7, all original 302 auto, 2nd owner.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zap's 85 GT View Post
    There likely isn't a corresponding spot on the frame rail to anchor the z-bar pivot nor the correct under dash pedal linkage geometry to make this work. Anything is possible if you want to cut, weld and fabricate but there really isn't any point. Z-bar linkage has many parts and they all need to work in harmony. Lots of points of failure. What makes you want to consider this option?
    The reason I’m considering going with a Z-bar clutch linkage is I’ve installed a 350 sbc in an AJE k-member in my Zephyr wagon. The trans will be a 4-speed Muncie. I’ve got a Fox Body clutch pedal set up. In the past I’ve had problems with a hydraulic clutch set up never getting it right. I was thinking that possibly using a Corvette z-bar from the mid-sixties with the same clutch fork (Vette) and attaching the push rod to the Fox clutch pedal using a heim joint. Attaching the other side of the z-bar to the frame I’d fabricate and weld a bracket.

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Well I guess it stands to reason that you already have a 350 chevy in it, it makes sense to cobble together a makeshift linkage out of scrap to go along with everything else.

  7. #7

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    Mcfairmont, thank you for the suggestions and advice on using a Z-bar. I’m sure once everything is assembled it will be a challenge to get the clutch linkage operating correctly. Building a performance car with available parts is what hot rodding is all about. I appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge and experience.
    Last edited by Ratchet1; 01-30-2019 at 08:29 AM.

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