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  1. #1

    Default Later 2MAE crankshaft in a 2 piece rear seal block

    Two versions of the 2MAE (302) crankshaft were made. One with an oil slinger for the early 80's blocks that had a two piece rear main seal and the other one, with no oil slinger, for the the later blocks with a one piece seal. Has anyone here installed a crankshaft with no oil slinger in one of the older blocks with a two piece rear main seal. I'm having a little trouble finding a 2MAE crank with the oil slinger in stock at a vendor and trying to avoid going to an aftermarket crank if I can.
    Last edited by Machspeed; 01-23-2019 at 01:00 PM.

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member
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    My thoughts are, if the oil slinger on the older crank was useful, they would still be on the newer ones. I would say they weren't needed.

  3. #3

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    They changed to a one piece seal when they removed the oil slinger. I've read about people running aftermarket cranks with no slinger in older blocks but I've never done it myself.

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member 306gt's Avatar
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    my 331 stroker crank doesn't have a slinger. I installed it into a 1965 289 block. Uses a 2pc rear main seal. no leaks. If you use the late model crank in the 2pc rear main seal block, use the late 50oz balancer and flywheel.
    85 G.T. All motor
    337 c.i.d 11.44-120 mph

    1984 1/2 G.T. 350 (13.01-106 mph)

    1984 G.T. (Daughters car)

    1986 G.T. (Son's car) (12.99-105 mph)

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by 306gt View Post
    my 331 stroker crank doesn't have a slinger. I installed it into a 1965 289 block. Uses a 2pc rear main seal. no leaks. If you use the late model crank in the 2pc rear main seal block, use the late 50oz balancer and flywheel.
    Did you use the regular black Felpro seal or did you have to use one of the "performance" seals? I read some people are using the brown performance Felpro seal along with the crankshaft repair sleeves. That seemed like too much unless the crank had a groove worn into it.
    Last edited by Machspeed; 01-23-2019 at 10:36 PM.

  6. #6

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    FWIW I have struggled with the two piece getting them to seal perfect on my 79 block/crank. Always seem to develop a small annoying drip after a while just when I think it is solved

    The newer one piece seal is much better in my opinion. You may want to consider getting the block and cap machined for a one piece especially if it’s out of the car and taken apart already. That is what I am considering even though it might be a bit of work and a few bucks to get a machine shop to do it. I just really hate oil drips on my floor.

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member 306gt's Avatar
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    I used the standard felpro black 2pc seal. Sometimes you have to grind on the end of the seal half to get them to fit properly. I had to grind on both seal halfs on one side only. the seal should protrude out of the block a little bit on one side When the other side is flush. Same goes for the cap. when the both stick out about .020. offset the seals and apply sealer to the cap register. then install the cap. If the seal sticks out .060 just carefully dress it down on the bench grinder on the side of the wheel.
    85 G.T. All motor
    337 c.i.d 11.44-120 mph

    1984 1/2 G.T. 350 (13.01-106 mph)

    1984 G.T. (Daughters car)

    1986 G.T. (Son's car) (12.99-105 mph)

  8. #8

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    Thanks 306gt

    I have an opportunity now to redo this leaking seal on my 79 block and will try the 2 piece .020 method as you suggest. I think in the past I might have ground off a bit too much perhaps and had a slow leak.

    Anyone out there have knowledge of the Jon Kaase one piece seals (to replace a two piece) that is cut and then fitted and the ends resealed ? Do they make them for a 302 ? It seems this may be a better system perhaps although more money.

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