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  1. #1

    Default 357 roller motor break-in oil

    I built a 357 W Roller motor and I'm preparing for the initial break-in of the motor at a dyno facility. I have read a lot about oils and ZDDP for flat tapped cams.
    What is the opinion on Brad Penn SAE 30 break-in oil??

    Please advise.

  2. #2

    Default

    Do a search here for your oil you plan on using and see how it stacks up.

    https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/

    I think your oil ranks as 218 out of 226 oils tested. Pretty much the bottom of the list.
    Last edited by Zap's 85 GT; 01-12-2019 at 01:58 PM.
    Black 1985 GT: 408w, in the 6's in the 1/8 mile
    Bimini Blue 1988 LX 5.0 Coupe 5-speed, Hellion turbo, zero options
    Grabber Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1: 351c, toploader
    Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
    Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member
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    Dont really need breaking oil for roller lifter cam .
    I use Valvoline period , even for my flat tappet 347.
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  4. #4

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    Thank you both Zap's 85 GT link regarding oils should be must read for everyone who builds motors or a car enthusiast. ashley roachclip,agree my motor is a roller cam block. I've used Valvoline for years too.But now in the position of building $5k+ purpose built motors; the concern about what oil to use takes on a new level of concern. After reading the link you could one oil did fair in the top 5 or 10 depending on the test conducted and that was Amsoil. There is some sobering data regarding zink and zink additives.

    Thank you !

  5. #5

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    As long as you use an oil ranked in the Extreme protection range you'd be safe. I just picked one in that range that I could purchase locally and not pay through the nose for something that's too exotic.
    Black 1985 GT: 408w, in the 6's in the 1/8 mile
    Bimini Blue 1988 LX 5.0 Coupe 5-speed, Hellion turbo, zero options
    Grabber Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1: 351c, toploader
    Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
    Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Sweet, another oil thread... ;-)
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Breakin is pretty much BS with modern ring packages and roller cams. My concern would be that I’ve had more instances of rings not seat properly when using synthetic from day 1. But auto manufacturers do it all the time.....

    If you are using older design ring packages there is something to breakin as many of us know from building stuff “back in the day”

    The engineering side of this - removing rings and cam breakin as a factor — is get the best oil you can find.

    You won’t go wrong with several different oils on the list.


    I am starting to lean towards AMS Oil as I’ve had great experiences with it at small scale. their engineering analysis is solid, they aren’t just mastering in hype.

    The oil I’ve always traditionally ran in my 1986GT is Mobile conventional either 10W30 or 10W40. The wear resistance test data shows it’s acceptable oil. What I’ve liked about it is it’s detergent properties and it’s resistance to thermal breakdown. It does well in those which is why my car has lasted well with a regular 3000 mile service internal
    Last edited by erratic50; 01-18-2019 at 02:50 PM.

  8. #8

    Default

    I agree; breaking in a roller cam block is really concerned with rings and if the motor runs and as it was purpose built for and intended use. Regarding rings, this is my first go around with Gapless rings. Really intricate technology. Once we finished the cylinder bores we had to ship the rings back to them for the Gapless machine work. I have no idea how they will react on initial Dyno engine run. There will sure to be a few careful pulls before we make any real pulls for Torque and Hp evaluations. Even then, I wont allow high RPM or lengthy pulls on a new motor. Way too many variables to sort out on a new born

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Gapless? Wow. I’ll have to read up on that technology.

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Yup- there is a brand of gapless rings. Want to say they overlap a bit and are thinner? Forget...
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

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