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  1. #1

    Default Post your speed density combos.

    Post your magic speed density combos.
    My Previous Stangs:
    86 GT, t-tops, 5 speed.
    87 GT, sunroof, 5 speed.
    88 GT, sunroof, 5 speed.
    89 LX, Sunroof, Roller (project)
    90 Coupe, LX, 2.3, 5 speed.

  2. #2

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    Not what your looking for, but my car is on Microsquirt, 100% speed density and never an issue
    Bob Myers ©

    84 Capri RS Turbo - Only a 4 banger - 1/8th 6.29@110, 1/4 9.87@137

  3. #3

    Default

    Magic in what way?

    you looking for V8 or 4 banger info?


    on the V8 side of the ballgame óyou can do too much and go backwards but bang for buck your best bet is to make the stock stuff run as good as it can.

    start with good clean plug wire ends, a good condition cap, good condition rotor, and freshly cleaned and gapped plugs.

    Remove your intake silencer from the air box and add a KN filter

    Clean your air bypass and throttle body with throttle body cleaner.

    Get your throttle position sensor to where it is very near but less than 1 volt. 0.98 will give you a motor that revs the second you blip the throttle.

    Run a tank or two of premium through it or add a bottle of a good octane booster. This next trick is one that if you get wrong you will fry a piston or blow a head gasket more than likely so pay attention toon...

    Pull the advance spout and move your base advance up. You want the point where the motor goes from a steady idle to where it starts to increase idle speed. Back it off just slightly to where you saw your shop tach move but not by much. If it starts hard it too much.

    E6 heads wonít tolerate more than about 13.5 degrees of advance. E7 and other heads that do not tend to swirl so aggressively can usually tolerate 14. But no more. My 86GT required a 3 core radiator to stay at 13.5 in the summer. My 89 demanded one to stay at 14. We are talking the ragged edge of detonation without actually going there. Set you timing accordingly. Factory is 10 degrees advanced but there is a TON of HP and torque to be had via more timing advance.

    Lets talk factory tunes. In my experience with VM1, VR1, DS1, and one other factory tune (number escapes me now) is that VM1 ECU yields an unmistakable tone in the pipe compared to the others. And noticeably more performance too.

    VM1 gives the most aggressive running motor, but likes to carbon up at idle and act like a bitch if itís not beat for 1-2 minutes for every hour of operation, just FYI

    1.7:1 rockers are always tolerated on the exhaust valve but you may have problems on the intake side. Seen it both ways. Depends upon how worn the timing set is. A worn out timing chain will retard the timing and let you get by with it.

    The next things you can do are headers, more open cats, a better flowing muffler, under drive pulleys, better rear gears, etc.

    You can do a 65MM throttlebody and EGR spacer too. You can get away with a better intake like a Typhoon EFI. Where you run into trouble is at high RPM as with these mods it will begin to starve for fuel. An adjustable fuel pressure regulator is whatís needed here.

    My car pulls to just before the 6250 rev limiter

    going beyond what Iíve mentioned is where you get into needing things like mega squirt to get you out of tuning jail

    My 1/2 million mile four eyed fox runs most of this, although I did recently A9L MAF swap it in preparation for a cam swap and a bunch of other changes. Anyone who has been around my car will tell you itís a plenty salty for a lot of fun. The MAF cured its idle tendencies I had lived with for 20+ years. With either computer it can light the tires up going 30 mph down the street and goes way hella faster than any idiot should ever drive it. Been 164 on gps in 4th and past 170 in 5th when I backed out of it...... stupid thing flunked physics

    My recent favorite is 0-60 pulls in 1st gear. Itís running 245/45/17ís and is geared with a 2.73 and I added a T5Z so it gets to 60 just before the rev limiter. If Iím on the stick and properly abuse the clutch so I donít bog it or burn the tires it gets there in around 4.5-5 seconds. 2nd gear is good to around 91 mph, etc.

    Ive made a GT500 in the area look flat stupid on the streets with my car a few times. The dude blew the tires off. I was late for the airport and as long as it wasnít a cop next to me I was going to let mine eat for sure. But it was an LOL when I dragged him down the street and stretched him out two lights in a row.
    Last edited by erratic50; 01-10-2019 at 02:43 PM.

  4. #4

    Default

    The car currently has ford racing headers, mac pro-chamber, 3:73 gears, and a shift kit.

    I just picked up a 97 explorer 5.0 (gt40p headed motor.) I bought it from a my buddy of mind for $200 bucks. It had 202,xxx miles on it, but ran good according to him (he already had it pulled.)

    Thought about throwing a comp cams xe-264-12 (or similar, whatever I find cheap) cam it, tossing in some decent valve springs, and re-sealing the motor and just running it.

    The motor in the car runs great, but leaking oil from... everywhere. I figured I would pull it out and toss the explorer motor in it's place...

    That should hold me over while I build the 86 motor and collect parts for a mass air conversion and a 5 speed swap.

    The question is, how is that comp cams going to do with a stock convertor?

    I think
    My Previous Stangs:
    86 GT, t-tops, 5 speed.
    87 GT, sunroof, 5 speed.
    88 GT, sunroof, 5 speed.
    89 LX, Sunroof, Roller (project)
    90 Coupe, LX, 2.3, 5 speed.

  5. #5

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    I'm running a 98' Explorer motor with the stock cam, 1.7RR's, Expo 65mm, Expo 19lb injectors and Ford 'P' Headers. Engine had 160k when I dropped it in, runs very well, pulls much harder than the stock 86 motor.

    IMO don't set the TPS sensor to .97v or close, from my experiences and many others I've talked to it causes bucking issues and sacrifices driveability. Personally I set mine to .88-.91 range.
    Jeremiah

    1986 Mustang GT 5spd
    1998 Explorer Limited 5.0AWD (Wife's Ride)
    1999 Ranger Ex-Cab 3.0 5spd (My Winter Beater)

  6. #6

    Default

    1988 HO engine, stock cam, 1.7 RR, GT40P heads with ford racing P headers, 2.5 inch H-pipe to 2.25 exhaust into dynomax mufflers, GT40 tubular intake with 65mm TB, BBK 70mm spacer, Explorer 19lb injectors, VJ1 computer, timing set to 16 BTDC, T5Z, 3.27 8.8
    Pulls very hard and still gets 25 on the highway.
    I have a DA1 computer and a DX3 but it pulls better in the lower revs with the VJ1.
    1978 Mercury Zephyr boxtop 5.0 EFI T5Z 8.8
    1999 Ford Contour 2.5 V6 5 speed
    2016 Ford Focus ST 2.0 Ecoboost 6 speed

  7. #7

    Default

    I might just keep the stock cam with 1.7 rr.

    If it was already a 5 speed car I would for sure do a sd friendly cam... I just DO NOT want to speed money on a converter as I plan on switching it to a 5 speed when I get the "good" motor built.
    My Previous Stangs:
    86 GT, t-tops, 5 speed.
    87 GT, sunroof, 5 speed.
    88 GT, sunroof, 5 speed.
    89 LX, Sunroof, Roller (project)
    90 Coupe, LX, 2.3, 5 speed.

  8. #8

    Default

    I run speed density but I dont think it's the kind you are interested in
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers
    GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721, K&N filter in stock dual snorkel,
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals.
    3.73 rear. CS5 225/60/15 on 10 holes (street) Federal 595 rs-rr 225/45/15 on 10 holes (race)
    Everything else stock and fully functional.

  9. #9

    Default

    It does not take long to run out of the fuel needed to make more power once the intake and exhaust are free flowing. I would definitely check A/F on some of the combos listed here because I had to turn up my fuel pressure with crappy E6 heads and 13.5 degrees of timing advance to keep it from getting dangerously lean starting at 5200.

    My cam is not stock but Ford made very few changes with the SD performance cam they offered in the 80’s. It got you about 10HP.... the engine behaves like it has 1.7:1 rockers fundamentally.

    By the time I’m turning 6250 — even with a 4 PSI bump in fuel pressure — my car is leaned out because it’s out of fuel.

    I would not screw with upgrading heads until there are 24lb injectors in play. You need a pnp SD aftermarket tunable ECU like what’s mentioned above or you are pretty well forced to go to MAF unless you find one of the very few shops in the US that can tune a SD ECU still. Personally I’ve not found one that can do it which is why I went to MAF.

    Next step on my 86 is return to stock fuel pressure and installation of 24lb injectors and a 93 Cobra ECU.

  10. #10

    Default

    As long as you are not revving the engine far beyond where it makes power and use your spark plugs as a gauge to check lean or rich you should be fine. The center of my plugs is light to medium brown. I seldom rev to 5k and keep my shifts on the street to around 3500 where its making great torque. The transmission has different gears for a reason, to keep the revs where its making usable power. Where that power is depends on how you set up your engine. A high revving race sounding engine is nice but gives up a lot in stop and go traffic.
    1978 Mercury Zephyr boxtop 5.0 EFI T5Z 8.8
    1999 Ford Contour 2.5 V6 5 speed
    2016 Ford Focus ST 2.0 Ecoboost 6 speed

  11. #11

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    not so much a setup as a starting point....1986 coupe, former V6 car, all 88 GT underneath, from a junkyard donor car. rebuilt-at-some-point 5.0, unequal shorties, stock H with cut rear cats and rebar mod fronts, stock GT OTA pipes with 13" glasspacks, 14* timing, TPS set, UD pullies, ele fan. It feels pretty eager, despite its humble origins. Still on the stock V6 in-tank pump, which is actually the same 88 lph unit used in the V8s. I have a 155lph sitting on a shelf and I plan to get an adjustable FPR to raise the FP a touch. Name:  86 Coupe-resized-r.jpg
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Size:  292.3 KBName:  88 GT.jpg
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  12. #12

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    Iím running speed density in my Factory Five Cobra.

    Started as a stock Ď87 LX
    30 over, long tube headers and side pipes. 3.55 gears.
    Plenty of power in such a light car and very drivable.

    Iíll be making some 1/8 mile passes this summer on M/T drag radials and see what sheíll do.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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