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  1. #1

    Default 1985 GT Engine Build Help

    Hey all it's been awhile since I've been on here but I recently started getting down and dirty with my 85' resto mod project and over the weekend I took the motor and tore it down to prep for a rebuild. Here are my current plans and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations as I am looking for RELIABLE power nothing crazy (I would be happy with 300 crank but I feel this setup will probably make more than that):

    - Trick Flow TW 11R 170 Aluminum Heads
    - Edelbrock Performance Intake Manifold
    - Trick Flow Stage 1 Cam Shaft
    - Ford Racing Push Rods (stock length can be swapped)
    - Comp Cams 1.6 Roller Rockers
    - Polished Crank (retain factory spec)
    - Polished/tanked Block (retain factory spec)
    - Re-use stock pistons/rods (they are in very good shape)
    - Stock Bottom end rebuild kit (bearings gaskets etc...)
    - Retain stock rollers? (I'm asking here but they are also in good shape)
    - Windage tray (I hear they work?)
    - Holley Sniper EFI system (will come later when engine is back in car that is going out for restoration/paint soon)

    Again just keep in mind this is a resto-mod build for weekend cruising/shows and does not need to make crazy power. Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated.

  2. #2

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    TFS heads usually end up needing different length pushrods. Do not buy them before hand. Measure after mocking up and order when you know what you need. I cant remember but usually they end up needing to be .100" longer or .100" shorter.

    At this level a windage tray isn't worth the hassle or money.

    Stock rockers will not work. Do not buy the pedestal mount version of these heads. I'm not even sire if they even sell them anymore. I'd upgrade to 7/16" ARP rocker studs and rockers straight away. The Rockers will be the same price weather you go 3/8 or 7/16 and the 3/8" studs that come with the heads aren't usually that great. They may not fail for a while but I if you have the car for many years and start getting aggressive with things the 3/8 studs have been knows to break after a while. Trick Flow Pushrods are a good value.

    Get a Performer RPM intake or a Air Gap. The standard performer is restrictive if installed onto the 11R's.
    Black 1985 GT: 408w, in the 6's in the 1/8 mile
    Bimini Blue 1988 LX 5.0 Coupe 5-speed, Hellion turbo, zero options
    Grabber Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1: 351c, toploader
    Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
    Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI

  3. #3

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    Thanks for the info Zap!

    Summit sells this kit and it looks like on the 11R heads the rocker studs are already 7/16 unless I'm missing something:
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-k525-432-370

    Alternatively I've also looked into this kit as it is much cheaper; however, in doing research there are very mixed reviews about using "SVE" heads. Again I'm not trying to make crazy amounts of power so this kit may not be a bad idea:
    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6049B-K/sve...arbureted-7985

    The second setup is less expensive considering the trick flow kit does not come with an intake but the SVE kit does. I'd imagine the biggest difference would be performance gains as the SVE probably makes a lot less power but there does not seem to be very many dyno numbers out there to back up LMRs claims of what the SVE heads are capable of. I'm really just looking for comfortable, reliable, streetable power so trading off some performance isn't the end of the world for me. If someone had some real world info on the SVE heads performance specs that would be great. Alternatively if someone had a very good reason to avoid these heads that would also be great.

  4. #4

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    Name:  878EB942-0F6E-43F6-93D3-73887C60E7DF.jpg
Views: 383
Size:  89.0 KB11r comes with arp 7/16 studs and will need a much longer pushrod than stock. 7.1 to 7.2” range versus stock 6.272”. Old twisted wedge typically used 6.7” on stock bottom end roller 302.

    Mine used 7.2 my buddy who is super anal used 7.1 on 1 side and 7.2 on the other (can’t remember I take/exhaust).
    82 ford fairmont futura
    quicktime turbosystems 70mm turbo
    10.67@128.38

  5. #5

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    Thanks for the info!

    Would it be advisable to keep the stock cam rollers? Also after my tear down the bottom end looks very healthy and there is no scoring or even much wear on the cyl walls. The chain is also tight with little to no play. Would it be advisable to leave it alone or should I just order a factory bottom end rebuild kit and have the crank/block/cyl walls polished up and replace everything while i have it torn down?

  6. #6

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    SVE heads are cost cutters plain and simple. They are likely copy of a copy. The same thing for the SVE intake manifold. Another copy of a copy. The metallurgy of properly heat treated aluminum in a head is a very important factor to quality and overall longevity. On high end heads like AFR, Brodix, TFS, etc, you can take a wire wheel to them and actually shine the casting. On the cheap heads like Patriot, and other Chinese knockoffs the aluminum will move around and smear because it of the poor metallurgy in the castings. The cost savings go through every single component in the cheap heads. Cheap valves, springs, guides, keepers, studs. You name it. I have sen TFS change vendors over the years using different valves but they always use decent stuff like Ferrea, or SI. Good guides and seats and the proper work done to install them. Thats not even considering a half decent valve job. You get what you pay for.

    Dyno numbers. I doubt you'll ever see SVE publish anything because dyno testing costs money and that's not their angle. They sell heads based on a price point and don't see the need to dyno parts because if they publish specs, then they become liable. Do they even publish flow numbers?

    Is this car a keeper? Are you one that bounces from car to car when the wind blows differently? Only you can justify what you will spend based on what you want. There are still plenty of old TFS heads still on cars that are over 20 years old. The choice is up to you.

    You also need to consider your pistons. If you keep the stock short block then that limits your head choice based on the 2.02 valves and the stock reliefs in the pistons. I liked recommending the AFR 165's as the smaller intake valve will fit that bill. The old TFS Twisted wedge head used to be good for .550" lift with stock pistons but I'm not sure about the 11R's. Things to think about.
    Last edited by Zap's 85 GT; 01-08-2019 at 04:59 PM.
    Black 1985 GT: 408w, in the 6's in the 1/8 mile
    Bimini Blue 1988 LX 5.0 Coupe 5-speed, Hellion turbo, zero options
    Grabber Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1: 351c, toploader
    Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
    Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI

  7. #7

    Default

    Car is definitely a keeper as it has a lot of sentimental value. I thought about AFR's but the TFS 11R heads are only slightly more price-wise and they seem to flow a little better. From what I've read the TFS 11R's have better piston to valve clearance than most. Hopefully someone can clarify that there wont be any PTV issue when using these heads with stock pistons. I would also like to thank everyone for the helpful info and I plan to start placing orders soon. Unfortunately the motor may sit for a little while after completion while the car itself gets the royal Maximum Motorsports and new Paint job treatment
    1997 Mustang Cobra - Very First Car
    1985 Mustang GT - RestoMod Work in Progress
    2006 F-150 FX4 - Tow Vehicle

  8. #8

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    It will have a ton of clearance with the cam you plan on running.
    82 ford fairmont futura
    quicktime turbosystems 70mm turbo
    10.67@128.38

  9. #9

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    Hi
    What is a Trick Flow Stage 1 cam???

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    For no more gains than come from a lot of the now old or very old design cams, either leave it a stock roller cam with 1.7:1 rockers or have Flowtech make you a custom cam designed for your combo.

    I cannot count the number of lumpy sounding beasts I’ve line up against and made look absolutely stupid. My combo is not much of anything. A very old SD friendly cam that is the rough equivliant of an HO cam with 1.7:1 rockers. It runs a pair of “horrible” E6 heads, etc. in later years I’ve added a Typhoon EFI intake 65MM TB, actual equal shorty headers and 2.5” exhaust rather than the modded stuff I had been running etc. but has always ran really strong for what it is.

    It has the usual tricks like underdrive pulleys and timing advance dialed in of course. A MAF conversion made it idle lots more steady and gain low and mid torque while giving up a little peak horsepower.

    A combo like it will make good power idle to just before the 6250 rev limiter and is an absolute blast to drive.

    My point is don’t believe the hype about needing more cam to make power. Over camming a motor is the #1 reason for lackluster performance and ultimately owner dissatisfaction. And then guys with a lot less come along and take you money. Lol

    There are many better street cars on here than mine, but my 86 is a blast in my book. i can go 30-35 mph down the street in 1st and stand on the gas. The 245/45/17 tires go to boil as the engine instantly goes to the rev limiter and the car shreds its tires. Could performance be better? Always! But the hide boiling antics are fun. So are sub 5 second 0-60 blast I like to run entirely in 1st gear

    Focus on area under the curve and not peak numbers. You could cam the hell out of a combo and maybe pick up 20% at peak and lose so much area under the curve that the average is a net loss.

  11. #11

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    Yea I think I'm just going to order the "ready-built" kit that Summit Sells with the 11R heads and "track max" cam. This is what I was referring to as a stage 1 cam because LMR has the same speced Cam listed as a "Stage 1": https://lmr.com/item/TFS-51402000/86...oller-Camshaft

    Everything I've read and from what people have said on this forum that cam shouldn't cause any interference with the factory pistons. It also seems to be a very "streetable" cam that performs in the 2k-5k range which is perfect for the street. When I get a chance I'm going to call TrickFlow direct to make sure there are no issues with this kit on the stock pistons but if everything checks out I will be ordering the kit very shortly. Thanks again all for the great info and as always this forum is the best resource on the net for these precious automotive gems!
    1997 Mustang Cobra - Very First Car
    1985 Mustang GT - RestoMod Work in Progress
    2006 F-150 FX4 - Tow Vehicle

  12. #12
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Looking back at some simple low buck high power combo articles.....

    AFR165 heads with a good intake (Airgap) with headers and a stock cam with 1.7:1 rockers made just a touch over 400 HP and 400 ft lbs at the flywheel on a 302.

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