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  1. #1

    Default LED Dash Bulb Kit

    Thought I’d share my install of the LED Dash kit from NPD in my Dad’s ‘83 Convertible.

    We both have ‘83’s and both suffer from the very dim dash lights.

    He bought the LED kit at NPD while in Florida and today we installed them.
    Very simple, took about 20min.
    We got the kit to keep the stock colour filters but they have other colours as well. The kit does the gauge lights and indicators.

    Looks like a great improvement over the old bulbs.
    Before


    After

    The pics are in the garage but near a window, I expect it to be even better in the dark.

    And here’s a pic of the car.
    Factory original except for the top, wheels and one repaint.



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  2. #2

    Default

    I don't recall the brand but I added LEDs to the dash of my last mustang. I really liked it but the blue high beam indicator was way to bright.

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  3. #3

    Default

    I'm really thinking about doing the same thing with my cluster. It's out of an LTD LX and the illumination is very poor. Only thing that I'm concerned is the dash lights being to intense at night since LEDs really don't have the ability to be turned down.

  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member Dave9052's Avatar
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    I installed these over a year ago, still working great, they dim just fine! Much brighter! https://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-White-T...59:g:FVkAAdown
    Last edited by Dave9052; 01-01-2019 at 11:53 AM.

  5. #5

    Default

    That NPD kit seems to have the high quality bulbs I've bought piecemeal from SuperBrightLEDs in the past. I'm very happy with them.

    That's the thing with LEDs, you have to make sure you've got good quality stuff.

    I put the Scott Drake kit that doesn't seem to be available anymore in my cluster, and my only complaint after living with them for a few years is the turn signal indicators are too bright. I'd change them, but I really don't want to take my cluster apart again.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  6. #6

    Default

    The kit we used keeps the factory dimmer.
    NPD has 3 kits, the cheapest doesn’t dim at all and the top kit is dimmable.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    "-turn signal indicators are too bright."

    Was shopping today to go forward with 2019 holiday lighting mod idea.

    Adding green and red masks to house outside Mansard fixtures for Christmas.
    Looking at transparent green and red clear cellophane rolls of wrapping paper. Inexpensive.
    Cut, insert, tape to inside fixture side lens. Bulbs are LED, minimal heat.
    Darn. The two rolls i hid until 50% off got unhidden. Gone.

    Figured why would this not work to darken the car's indicator masks? Thin enough.

    Bet little pieces would work taped from the back side. Layers to suit.

    Would incandescent rubber bulb masks work on LED?
    The BRAKE, SEATBELT masks also fade over time. When color matched bulbs are used, the color is like new again..
    Noticed thin colored plastic lids, on say prepackaged sliced deli meats, come in green, red, blue. Cut and paste.
    Or green lens from a pair of cheap little kid sunglasses.
    Cut up colored transparent acetate file folders or just the tabs.

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    "-turn signal indicators are too bright."

    Was shopping today to go forward with 2019 holiday lighting mod idea.

    Adding green and red masks to house outside Mansard fixtures for Christmas.
    Looking at transparent green and red clear cellophane rolls of wrapping paper. Inexpensive.
    Cut, insert, tape to inside fixture side lens. Bulbs are LED, minimal heat.
    Darn. The two rolls i hid until 50% off got unhidden. Gone.

    Figured why would this not work to darken the car's indicator masks? Thin enough.

    Bet little pieces would work taped from the back side. Layers to suit.

    Would incandescent rubber bulb masks work on LED?
    The BRAKE, SEATBELT masks also fade over time. When color matched bulbs are used, the color is like new again..
    Noticed thin colored plastic lids, on say prepackaged sliced deli meats, come in green, red, blue. Cut and paste.
    Or green lens from a pair of cheap little kid sunglasses.
    Cut up colored transparent acetate file folders or just the tabs.
    Some good ideas.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  9. #9
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    LED's are available in multiple colors, especially Red, Green, Blue, Yellow, White, and some others. Not sure it's not easier to just buy the color bulb you need and forgo any lens or masks.

    LED bulbs are also often available in different lumens or brightness, so you can swap out some overly bright bulbs for something a little less blinding, but I do understand not wanting to pull the cluster another time.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Have changed out wedge bulbs in the cluster from the front face.
    The ones that are accessible of course. Have no LEDs in cluster.
    Plastic fuse puller, slim needle nose, nitrile glove, tape on bulb. Or a mini bulb tool.
    Can't squeeze too hard on glass or bulb breaks. Wiggle and pull. LED??

    Suggested darker masks to avoid spending for more LED bulbs with unknown specs.
    To use current LED and simply darken.

    A welder mask shade lens sure would cut down brightness.
    Or reinstall regular or green 194s. Plenty bright to me even in daylight.
    Have RS 278-0272 orange LED in premium sound switch assy.
    Glaring bright. Is fine, glare blocked by steering wheel.
    Too much brightness reflecting off gauges impairs night vision.

    House LED are easy to match. Very happy using them there.

  11. #11

    Default

    I was just checking the NPD page out... the "extream" ($52) are semi dimmable and the "elite" are fully dimmible sets run about $72
    https://www.npdlink.com/search/produ...t=150000&year=

    Kinda steep... Id like to give the $8 set on fleaybay a shot and see if I like them but at $8 shipped I really don't want to do the swap more then once.

    Quote Originally Posted by AldeanFan View Post
    The kit we used keeps the factory dimmer.
    NPD has 3 kits, the cheapest doesn’t dim at all and the top kit is dimmable.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by BBCFORD; 01-04-2019 at 08:23 PM.

  12. #12
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BBCFORD View Post
    I was just checking the NPD page out... the "extream" ($52) are semi dimmable and the "elite" are fully dimmible sets run about $72
    https://www.npdlink.com/search/produ...t=150000&year=

    Kinda steep... Id like to give the $8 set on fleaybay a shot and see if I like them but at $8 shipped I really don't want to do the swap more then once.
    Personally I wouldn't waste the time with the $8 LEDs. Most likely will not do what you want and will be questionable quality.

    Here is an option that will give you a quality LED bulb that is dimmable. You can choose your gauge lighting from Warm 3000K all the way up to Cool at 6500K. All the color options are available too for turn signals, idiot lights etc.

    https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...rofit-car/206/

    Still going to cost you @ $60 for the bulbs, but gives you options if you like. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  13. #13

    Default

    You get what you pay for with LEDs. The cheap ones are garbage.

    SuperBrightLEDs is a great site, but they do offer cheap ones too. The good thing about it is that they TELL you what you're getting into. Most cheap LED ads tell you jack squat about the actual product, but SuperBrightLEDs gives you everything you need to make an informed decision.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  14. #14

    Default

    x1000 don’t fo the cheap route been there done that. They might last 6-8 months and then they go bad

  15. #15

    Default

    I just took a look at the superbrights link. How do you determine if a cool, natural, or warm bulb is best?
    I can understand the difference if we're talking about a clear courtesy bulb... but how does that change how a blue high beam or red e-brake bulb is going to look in the cluster?

  16. #16

    Default

    If you’re using the stock filters for colour then a warm white will be best since that is closest to the colour of the incandescent bulb you’re replacing.

    This is why I went with the kit from NPD, no guess work and I’m lazy.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  17. #17

    Default

    You also might consider matching the bulb color to the idiot light color. A blue bulb in a blue high beam light and a red bulb in a red brake light bulb for example.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  18. #18
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BBCFORD View Post
    I just took a look at the superbrights link. How do you determine if a cool, natural, or warm bulb is best?
    I can understand the difference if we're talking about a clear courtesy bulb... but how does that change how a blue high beam or red e-brake bulb is going to look in the cluster?
    The color (cool/warm/natural) selection only applies to the white bulbs. All the colored bulbs have just the color option nothing else.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  19. #19

    Default

    Thanks for the clarification about the clear bulbs being the only ones with 3 different ranges. I haven't returned yet to buy bulbs but that's helpful to know.

    Just a side note, a trick to remove the oem bulbs is to take about 3-4" of clear scotch tape or package tape... apply one end to one side of the bulb then form a loop with the tape and stitch it to to the opposite side of the bulb. You now have a little tape gripper to hold onto and pop it right out.
    Wish I could say I figured it out but I didn't. I watched a video where a guy showed his method to get those darn things out

  20. #20

    Default

    I pulled the cluster yesterday to make a speedometer repair and thought I was all set to do the LED swap and was going to go with that Elite package but realized that my high beam indicator bulb isn't the 168/194 size bulb. Another member on the forum suggested it may be a 37 bulb which is about half the size on the 168s. The high beam indicator is integrated into the LTD LX tachometer and uses the much smaller bulb. Looks like I'll have to buy everything individually and "build" my own kit

  21. #21

    Default

    I ended up ordering those individual bulbs from Superbrights. The cost was about $20 less then the prepackaged set NPD sells. Plus I needed a #37 size for the high beam, which isn't in the NPD kit. I'm just hoping that these bulbs will be fully dimmable like the elite package offered by NPD. It shows in their description that they are dimmable so... I'm hoping that they are fully, not just partially. I'm going to try to get the cluster back in this evening and see how they look.

  22. #22

    Default

    I installed the Led bulbs in the cluster and over all I'm pretty happy about the lighting. It's a huge improvement and I now have no problems seeing the gauges. However, the odd thing is when I tested the cluster (before putting everything back together) the bulbs appeared to fully dim down almost to nothing. But now that everything is back together they only slightly dim. I'm not sure what could have happened just by putting everything together. Maybe it's my headlamp switch that's causing the problem...Seeing that the switch is almost 40 years old. Its just unusual that it dimmed fine until I screwed everything back together.

  23. #23
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default

    I did my LED conversion a few years ago and I'm very happy with the way it came out. I did it in steps because there's a lot going on in the cars interior lighting system. First i did the dash cluster. Learned the hard way the Scott Drake light set was junk.

    Scott Drake kit left dead zones all around. Horrible.
    Name:  scott drake lights.jpg
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    Superbrite LED's don't come in a ready made kit. you have to research each and every bulb number and order onesy twosy but it's well worth it.
    This is cluster being bench tested
    Attachment 127915

    This is SBLED's in the car.
    Attachment 127916

    But when i did the SBLED conversion I took a few steps further. i ordered decal coverlays for the cluster and they gave it s brand new look. Got them from here; http://www.whitegauges.net/products/...e-Gauges.html#

    I also sent out my stock AMP gauge and had it retro fit to be a VOLT gauge so it fits and looks stock. Only minor issue is theres not enoughspace in the AMP gauge for the volts gauge to hit 14.5 volts in the center. It pegs far right at 14.5 volts but i can live with it.
    Attachment 127917

    Attachment 127918

    After that i went all out and replaced my console lights, my message center lights and my interior lights. I added a lighted rear view from a later model Vert and I installed glove box, engine compartment and trunk lights where there had been none before. I found my ashtray light was installed backwords at the factory which is why I never had a lighted ashtray. They placed small helmets over then with thin visors to point light in one direction. Mine was backwards.

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    Name:  stock light covers.jpg
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    Last edited by fgross2006; 05-23-2019 at 01:34 PM.

  24. #24

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    It would be cool to see this at night to get the full visual difference. Been debating on doing this for my 86. Dim orange lights, faded needles and redline area on tach. Looks dated and old in my totally refinished interior lol

  25. #25

    Default

    Some of your attachments didn't work. I'm really curious about the difference between the Scott Drake bulbs and the SB ones. I have the Drake kit in my cluster and definitely notice the dead spots. What SB bulbs did you go with? I used these ones in the interior that seem to be now obsolete and no longer offered.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

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