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  1. #1

    Default Suspension for Daily Driver

    I'm hoping to get some ideas for those you who have went down this road.

    I have a newly purchased 84 GT Hatchback. All original and very solid engine and drive train.

    I want to use it as a daily driver and don't race.
    I would like to stiffen up the ride. It has the original suspension including the 7.5 rear.

    Would new shocks and springs work? I think that would cost around $750 +/-

    OR

    I could do an entire suspension upgrade with a 5 lug conversion and brake upgrade.
    I would do an 8.8 swap.
    This would cost over 3X just doing a simple shock/spring upgrade. Is this over kill?

    Just curious if anybody had any suggestions.
    Although I don't intend on ever selling I just don't won't to put too much into the suspension when
    all I do is drive around town.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Correctly install good quality subframe connectors if none are on car. Big bang for the buck.
    The car will have a good solid firm feel without being annoying or changing anything.
    Try that first.

    New shocks/struts/bushings never hurt.

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Bang for buck on a GREAT setup for a daily driver I would more or less copy the shock/strut and spring rates used in the 1993 Cobra. The street car version, not the R.

    The street Cobra rides MUCH better and also handles much better than the GT's did. Win/win.

    Brake/spindle wise maybe look at the CobraR. It was 5 lug via spindles and brakes and tri-bar wheels from the then up-coming 1994+ GT. I would stay fox width on the rear axle and use a Mosier or ranger or aerostar rear axle to accomplish that.

    I did basically this very thing to my 1986GT and I am VERY happy with the results. the only thing I did different was that I went to steeda X2 balljoint as a way to drop the spindle then did HPM caster/camber plates also. Combined the two shaved 1.5" off the ride height in front while improving suspension geometry and lowering the center of gravity.

    In back I went to a 93 4cy LX spring, a much thinner spring isolator, and ditched the rear swaybar. The 93 Cobra street version uses a much lighter duty swaybar in front than the GT used and the same as a GT in back. Removing the rear swaybar eliminates a huge source of suspension bind in the rear while also transferring weight diagonally from the inside front tire to the outside rear tire when cornering. You go from massive oversteer problems to occasional but managable understeer problems.

    Maximum motorsports makes a rear swaybar that attaches to the frame and the rear axle separately from the control arms that can be used to adjust/refine this effect to maximize and balance grip.

    I'd go 255/40/17 tires if I had it to do again. I went with 245/45/17 the first time around.

    Car drives amazing. rides as nice as my wife's MKX in sport mode. Handles vastly better than stock. Not a race car level but enough to do very well at taking 90 degree corners at speeds never imagined possible for the mods present.

    Get some stoptech rotors, 1999 GT calipers, braided steel lines, and Hawk HPS pads and an adjustable proportioning valve and an LMR plug and an M1858 master cyl while you are at it. You won't be disappointed.

  4. #4

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    Thank you for the personal experience just what I was looking for!

  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The 93 Cobra suspension is an excellent OEM setup that is easy to copy. The Cobra used the earlier 1 1/8" front sway bar rather than the later 1 5/16" front sway bar. Rear sway bar is standard GT size of 0.83"

    If you are looking at doing a full suspension upgrade, I would recommend the Eibach Pro Kit if you want/need struts/shocks/springs. Good ride quality, nice ride height and a matched setup. https://www.maximummotorsports.com/E...-IRS-P947.aspx if you are ready to buy now, keep your eye on the Weekend Deals with MM thru Christmas.

    A rebuild of your suspension in regards to bushings is another item to seriously consider. The best struts and shocks will not make up for worn out bushings/bearings/ball joints. You can buy new or rebuild what you have. Rubber bushings for best ride quality and Poly bushings for improved performance. If just a street car and cruiser, then stock rear control arms are fine. If you want improved handling then a set of MM rear lower control arms paired with either new OEM style or all new RUBBER bushings in the uppers will do the trick. https://www.maximummotorsports.com/1...tang-C425.aspx https://www.maximummotorsports.com/U...-Arms-C98.aspx

    Personally I am a big fan of running the OEM SN95 front ball joint in the Fox. I do it often because I swap out for SN95 spindles and brakes, but it will work just fine with the Fox spindles too. Just make sure to spend a little extra $$ and get the OEM Ford units. MM has the best price I have found. https://www.maximummotorsports.com/F...ang-P1465.aspx

    The shocks/struts/springs will make the biggest difference for the $$. Again assuming your suspension is in decent shape right now. You can do the overhaul/rebuild of your current setup, add the new suspension package, and then upgrade the rear axle, brakes, etc. as budget and time allow. Virtually everything will work with your current setup and any spindle/brake/rear axle upgrades in the future. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  6. #6

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    On a DD street car the #1 thing to watch out for is rear suspension bind and snapsteer

    The softer “cobra” rear springs (4-banger rear springs) reduce the tendency to bind via softer spring rate

    the rear sway bar tends to cause a LOT of bind unless the rear axle is located side to side

    A panhard bar or watts link will locate the rear and avoid side to side pressure on the upper and lower control arms which eliminates bind


    You can greatly reduce bind by vast amounts by switching to a Maximum Motorsports adjustable rear swaybar that attaches independently to the frame and the rear axle with its own mounts. Then it helps locate the rearend and doesn’t itself encourage bind while reducing body roll in back

    I run a GT swaybar in front and NO swaybar in the rear on my 86GT. It’s running stock power plus a bit yet I can take off from an intersection in 1st with my foot on the floor and turn a 90 degree left around a median and NOT end up in a circle. Try that with a rear swaybar .... well — don’t.

    The only tendency I plan to break on my car yet is that during spirited cornering accelerating out of a turn under wide open throttle the front tires occasionally understeer (push).

    I plan to fix this by installing the MM rear swaybar and dropping front tire pressure to increase contact. If needed I may go to a shorter swaybar link in front. Just one of the things I can do to help reduce weight transfer. Could always drop in a 351W based Windsor I guess.


    But just imagine your foxbody understeering under wide open throttle!
    Last edited by erratic50; 12-18-2018 at 12:50 AM.

  8. #8
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    I've seen alot of posts on the use of the 4 cylinder springs, anyone got a Moog part number for these?

  9. #9
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85WhiteGT View Post
    I've seen alot of posts on the use of the 4 cylinder springs, anyone got a Moog part number for these?
    If you want to run a stock style rear spring, I would probably go with the Moog CC835 replacement. It's a variable rate rear spring and rated around 175lbs. The standard 4 cyl rear springs were constant rate 200lb unit IIRC. The V8/GT rear springs were 200/300lb variable rate.

    Otherwise you will probably need to check out NPD and Eaton springs to get much closer to a true original replacement. https://www.npdlink.com/1979-1993-mu...cement-springs I am not sure if any of the OEM Ford springs are still available, but somewhere I have the part number used for the 93 Cobra. I will try and find it when I get home later this week. Good Luck!
    Last edited by wraithracing; 12-18-2018 at 11:07 PM.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  10. #10

    Default

    If all of your suspension bushings are in good shape do #1 and #2.

    1) Maximum Motorsports SFC's... huge difference in how it makes the car feel solid. https://www.maximummotorsports.com/M...ated-P585.aspx
    2) Eibach Pro Kit springs, struts and shocks... good ride quality and drops the ride height a bit.

    #3 and #4 can be done at a later time if you want even more improvements.

    3) 94-95 spindles/brakes and ball joints... turns a corner much better
    4) MM C/C plates... better caster and camber settings (a must have item if using the SN95 spindles)

    Last edited by wraithracing; 12-19-2018 at 08:48 AM. Reason: Text Color
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    But just imagine your foxbody understeering under wide open throttle!
    Shouldn't be too hard to imagine, since they understeer all the time.
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  12. #12

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    I totally agree with you, Patrick. I'm glad I went through the effort of installing the SN95 spindles and C/C plates. I swear my '86 corners and handles better than my 2005 4.0L which has larger and wider than stock wheels/tires.
    Last edited by banzaibullitt; 12-19-2018 at 11:51 PM.
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  13. #13

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    Are the 93 cobra struts and shocks the same as the gt ,or specific cobra ...thanks

  14. #14
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hockelly14 View Post
    Are the 93 cobra struts and shocks the same as the gt ,or specific cobra ...thanks
    My understanding is they are specific to the 93 Cobra and were made by Tokico for Ford.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  15. #15

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    Would anyone have a part # for it ,or a suitable replacement for a weekend cruiser ..thanks again

  16. #16
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hockelly14 View Post
    Would anyone have a part # for it ,or a suitable replacement for a weekend cruiser ..thanks again
    What "it" are you referring to?
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    The problem I always had historically with my 86GT was oversteer. The car tried to put me in a circle more times than I care to think about. Frontend kisses the backend goodbye and around she goes..... better lift and drive it

    With the changes I made if you pour too much accelerator to it going out of a corner it will understeer and push in front until you back off slightly.

    For me that was not the stock behavior. The stock behavior was to kick the backend out nearly uncontrolably or if you’re not paying attention then simply go in a circle.

    18 years of daily driving on terrible Nebraska roads as it came from the factory. I wish I had known them what I know now. It’s a lot more civilized on crappy roads than it ever was before.
    Last edited by erratic50; 12-26-2018 at 02:29 AM.

  18. #18

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    Front struts and rear shocks ...thanks

  19. #19
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hockelly14 View Post
    Front struts and rear shocks ...thanks
    If you are just looking for stock replacement type setups, then Motorcraft if available, Monroe, Gabriel, etc. will do just fine. You can pick those up from Rock Auto, Napa, etc.

    If you are looking at improving the handling, then understand you will see some degrade in the overall ride quality in most cases. Lowering the car will increase the harshness a bit and then depending on what type of spring rate you run will also increase the harness. IMHO the best bang for the buck if you just want to install a better quality set of springs, shocks, and struts is the Eibach Pro Kit. Everything you need in one package. The shocks/struts are matched to the springs, so you will get a good quality ride and improved handling. This is a great kit for the average driver that wants to lower the car slightly, but not go crazy on the suspension and turn it into a low rider or all out road racer. Maximum Motorsports offers the kit as do many other vendors.

    https://www.maximummotorsports.com/E...-IRS-P947.aspx
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  20. #20

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    Thanks for the reply ..i have the 93 cobra springs sway bars struts and shocks in my 83 vert from all the way back in 94 ..seems they are a bit tired so want to replace them with similar as the ride quality is very good for me ..

  21. #21
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Thoughts ....

    Drove mine every day for 18 years, rain, snow, shine, etc. I wish I knew then what I know now

    the rear swaybar is a bind inducing piece of crap. Toss it unless you cure the root cause of the bind with a panhard or watts link.

    The rear springs are outrageously firm compared to the front

    the front swaybar is outrageously strong compared to what on a 93 cobra


    I had GREAT luck with Monroe. They lasted over 250K miles and were still good when I removed them. Gabriel have been ok so far

    My answer would be
    87-93 struts, 87-93 shocks, 4 banger rear springs, GT front springs, no rear swaybar. results in excellent handling and ride. The overly strong front bar is made up for by no rear bar and transfers weight inside fro t wheel to outside rear wheel.


    if you see a lot of snow — keep the ride height as you’ll need it and chains will more easily clear. Yes I said tire chains!

    otherwise

    thinner isolators in the rear dropped my car about an inch, and extra 70 lbs at the back dropped it another 1/2”.

    you can grind 1/4” off the rear springs top and bottom and get a 1/2” drop that way, still on my todo list

    Up front my X2 balljoints and HPM caster/camber plates dropped my car 1.5”

    If I didn’t have X2s my car would be around 3/4” - 1” lower than factory and level..... the ideal for a most daily driver imo

    an SN95 rear shock will yield a better ride and performance out back but eliminate the Fox bumpstop first


    ditch the rear swaybar on a street car if you are t going to add a panhard or watts link. The rear suspension binds and it’s very dangerous on wet or icy roads with the stock setup

    Maximum Motorsports makes a sway bar setup that works differently than factory and reduces bind big time.

    You sorta have to pick what way you are going to lower a car. If you do the stuff I’m talking about AND any of the non-OE type lowering springs I’m avoiding it will be a problem on a daily driver....

    I have as much drop as I want and more with factory springs. If I went to a lowering spring my car would be nearly on the ground! So in that regard low miles factory springs are the ticket at $50 for everything.....


    some pictures of where my beat down pony ended up after a suspension rebuild and 5 lug swap
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    Last edited by erratic50; 12-27-2018 at 07:44 PM.

  22. #22
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hockelly14 View Post
    Thanks for the reply ..i have the 93 cobra springs sway bars struts and shocks in my 83 vert from all the way back in 94 ..seems they are a bit tired so want to replace them with similar as the ride quality is very good for me ..
    Information that would have been helpful to begin with.

    Erratic50 and I have to agree to disagree on the rear sway bar delete and the X2 ball joints. He and I have had this discussion several times and we just don't see eye to eye. What works for him, doesn't work for me and vice versa.

    With that said, I have to assume you are using the 87-93 spindles correct? I don't recall if the OEM Cobra struts used spacers for the narrower 87-93 V8 spindles or just used the narrower mount. I haven't looked or seen an original set in Forever.

    If you have the 87-93 V8 spindles then you have more options in regards to front struts. If running the 79-86 spindles or the 87-93 4 cyl spindles then you are limited in your front strut options. The Eibach and stock replacement Monroe, Gabriel, etc. are the only front struts that I am aware of that will fit the wider front spindle mount. There might be a few others, such as older Konis, but I don't believe there are many if any other options.

    Tokico offers some nice struts/shocks if you want a slightly firmer ride, but don't want to go all out racer. The adjustable Konis have benefits too, but at a higher cost. I like Bilstein overall, but I tend to prefer better handling over ride quality.

    As I am sure you understand the 93 Cobra suspension used the smaller earlier model 1 1/8" front sway bar over the standard 1 5/16" front bar. That coupled with the 4 cyl rear spring rate help to improve the overall handling while still retaining good ride quality. I still think it is one of the best overall options for the average Fox. I have replicated the setup on several Foxes over the years and have liked it every time. Unless your springs are rusty, corroded, or damaged, the odds are they are fine to reuse unless you just want to rebuild the suspension. Most likely new bushings and especially new rubber upper bushings in the rear will make a huge improvement in the ride and handling. Personally I would spend $$ on a quality set of rear lower control arms such as Maximum Motorsports before I swapped out the springs, but that's me.

    Oh! I also highly recommend installing new OEM Ford front ball joints. The only option unless you can find NOS Fox balljoints is the SN95 F4ZZ ball joints. MM offers the best price I have found and they will work with the Fox spindles just fine. You will need a harden washer to use the nylon lock nut, but otherwise they are a bolt on change. Don't cheap out and install Motorcraft or any other ball joints, NONE of them are the same quality as the OEM Ford units with the Teflon lining. That alone makes a huge improvement in ride quality up front. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  23. #23
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I always support Trey's advise as it is always very sound. We've discussed it in detail before and found that we have some potato/patato type stuff in our approaches.

    The front swaybar is too big on the GT/LX cars. If you can source one that is the correct diameter for a Cobra, swap it out. SN95 balljoints are the best answer. You may want to grind down the springs some or get lowering springs to lower your center of gravity some.

    If you can't or don't get a Cobra front swaybar..... (like I didn't/havent) then the amount of extra load the GT swaybar holds is nearly equal to the Cobra swaybars front and rear when you simply remove the rear bar entirely..... Dropping the roll-center in the front (as I've done with X2 balljoints on the front of my 86GT) helps further with balancing things out.

    What I like about no swaybar in back is there is NO harshness to the rear suspension. No measurable binding, etc. I'd run one in a heartbeat if I have a panhard in my car, but only then.

    The end result of the two setups mostly boils down to driver preference. There is probably little difference in skid-pad results one way or the other. I can take corners in my 86GT that will scare the living crap out of anyone familar with stock performance. Trey can do the same with the cars has put together.

    Performance wise I predict that what Trey is saying will do the corners a bit faster where-as mine will behave itself a bit more in crappy road conditions found here in Nebraska.

    I like the fact that I can stab the throttle during a spirited drive and induce understeer on a car that is notorious for oversteer. And only by going to an absolute extreme on throttle input will the backend kickout due to oversteer.


    The OEM SN95 balljoints are what we chose for my 1985 build that Trey is working on currently. They are a much nicer balljoint than the fox style because they are low friction which lets the suspension do its job.

    The only reason I mentioned the X2's is because I'm running them on my 86GT and so far I like them. They are NOT as nice of a piece as the SN95 balljoints Trey mentioned -- not by a mile. But they are vastly better than the stock units you're removing or at least they were for me!

    I used them on my 86GT mainly to get to a lower ride height with stock springs. x2's are Steeda's way to account for bumpsteer during a 5 lug conversion (which I've done to my 86GT) Maximum Motorsports recommends their SN95 spindle on foxbody bumpsteer kit rather than a longer balljoint. I also installed the MM bumpsteer kit because the outer tierod ends have VASTLY less play than the stock units and I wanted a way to fine-tune bumpsteer after the ~3/4" drop the HPM caster/camber plates yield.

    I went SN95 on my 85 build following Trey's recommendation. We noted that it already has racecraft suspension and is slammed to the ground ride height wise. X2's would have made it even lower which we felt would have been bad on a car with a near irreplaceable front spoiler.

    So .... anyway...... there's probably some other "rest of the story" somewhere in there too.

    Spend the least amount possible for good enough parts that make it how you like.

  24. #24

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    Thanks sooooo much for all of the info .it greatly helped me as well as many others on this forum ....

  25. #25
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    There are 100 different ways to skin a cat. Another interesting discussion is the difference in suspension and handling preferences between Herb Adams and Dick Guldstrand and the ole F Body Camaro/Firebirds. Both gentlemen did very well in road racing as well as custom tuner cars, but their approach was totally different.

    Anyway . . . .

    Just an FYI for anyone who doesn't know. the 93 Cobra used the 1 1/8" front sway bar that is the same as the 1982-84 TRX, 1983-84 GT/Handling/Heavy Duty, and the 1985-87 base/non V8. So you can use a standard front swaybar from many of the early Four Eyed cars with the TRX/Heavy Duty/Handling package.

    The rear sway bar if you choose to run one is the same in the rear for late 1984-85 Special Handling and GT/Handling, 1986-93 GT and LX 5.0L Handling, 1993 SVT Cobra and Cobra "R". The size is 0.83" Hope that helps some.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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