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  1. #1

    Default Treating light surface rust for the second time!

    Hi all, started bodywork back in the late 90’s... and after multiple moves from carport to carport.
    she’s back home. I have primer spots that are bleeding through rust pits.
    Do i DA them and do some type of chemical etch (phosphoric) before primer?
    Seems this should be as basic as it gets but not sure.
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  2. #2

    Default

    You need to the rod of all the rust or it will come back.
    If it is actually surface rust you can sand/grind it out and then primer again. Sandblasting is another option.

    This may be rust coming through from the backside. If it is then your only option is to cut out and replace metal unless you can sandblast the backside.

    I’ve never had luck with chemicals that claim to magically stop rust, they may slow it down but never stop it


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    As stated above you need to verify if this surface rust only or rust below the primer that will continue to eat away at the car if not removed/treated properly. First and foremost Primer is not a good solution for long term storage. I am sure that wasn't your original intention, but Primer is generally porous and will not properly seal the metal below from air and moisture. Primer/Sealer can and some 2K products are better than others, but in general you don't want primer sitting for long periods of time if you can help it. If you are still not able to finish the paint work in the immediate future, I would look at a good Epoxy Primer/Sealer to protect the car in the interim.

    I would most likely begin sanding and see what happens. If the rust goes away before you are down to bare metal, then most likely surface, otherwise you will need to take at least any affected areas down to bare metal. Remove all the rust and/or use a product such as Eastwood Rust Encapsulator or others and treat the rust before primer and sealer. If the bare metal shows major rust issues, I would recommend cutting out/removing entirely if possible. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  4. #4

    Default

    Thanks Guys,
    looks like both fenders will be stripped completely..bubbles all over. l believe my biggest issue is pitting, has anyone used Eastwood’s fast etch?

  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I have not used Eastwood's fast etch, so I can't comment good or bad.

    I personally am not a big fan of self etching primers. I generally don't use it except in extreme cases. Bottom line if the substrate to be primered is taken down to bare metal, it makes no sense to me to use self etching. You should already have a good mechanical bond of primer to substrate by the sanding scratches/media stripping in the metal. If you are in areas that are difficult to sand or don't want to media blast, then I understand self etching primer. Otherwise, IMHO it's an additional expense that has few if any benefits and in my experience can cause issues at times further down the road. I know others use self etching primers all the time and that's fine. Just my .02 worth and YRMV. Best of Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  6. #6

    Default

    Thanks Trey,
    I appreciate the time. You seem to be a big asset around here, so from all that you have helped along the way.
    THANKS

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member conmech's Avatar
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    Gentlemen,
    I have been running tests on a rust converter "CORROSEAL". It is used in the Gulf of Mexico on the oil rigs to prevent them from rotting out from under them. Back in the spring of this year (March or May..... getting old), I initiated a test to see how effective it was. I found a DVR cover that was rusted (thick surface rust), wire brushed the entire thing, treated 2/3 of it, leaving 1/3 rusty surface. After id=t cured for 24 hours, I covered the rusty section and 1/2 of the treated part = 2/3 covered and painted the remaining 1/3 of the surface (treated) with Krylon white paint. After it cured, I gouged the paint down to the metal with a screwdriver. This was to test the sealing capabilities of the CORROSEAL. One of the biggest characteristics of rust is bubbling under paint and spreading. Metals equivalent of cancer. I submitted the treated to salt water from the bay, here in San Diego, I left it out in the elements for weeks at a time, More water, rain (when it DID happen, sun exposure, and so on.

    TO THIS DAY, the gouge mark has not spread. We are talking about 6 months+. Below are links for you guys to read up on it. Also, there are videos on YouTube........

    CORROSEAL is available through LOWES or HOME DEPOT ($50/gallon - mail order)

    http://www.corroseal.com/

    https://www.google.com/search?source...31.-SYKlL9pxK8
    conmech - aka Marshall
    Pending build-1983 Mercury Capri RS NOT staying as it left the showroom floor......
    Sonic blue pearl, sand beige, netted halos, FR500 wheels and shiny under the hood.

  8. #8
    FEP Member SECESH's Avatar
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    I used Eastwood's Fast Etch to treat the rear frame on an F350 after removing the cattle body from it. This was summer 2017. Painted with rustoleum from the hardware store. No rust has reappeared as yet.
    Any water consistency phosphoric acid solution will penetrate very well, the jellied varieties stick on vertical surfaces but don't soak into the nooks and crannies, so to speak.
    Cattle trucks really suffer from bovine originating corrosive elements. Converting the rust to ferrous phosphate does seem to help.
    Last edited by SECESH; 12-13-2018 at 08:02 AM.
    Married to the same Mustang since 03/29/82

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