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  1. #1
    FEP Member 5pointoh's Avatar
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    Default New staggered 10th Anny wheels installed on my 82 GT

    OK I finally installed my new wheels on my 82 GT. I have got a 1/4 inch spacer on the front and it appears that it might be rubbing on the front lower part of the bumper. I have included a picture to show that area. Has anyone else had this type of rubbing issue.

    I have got 17 x 10s (+20mm) in the back with 275/40/17 and in the fronts I have 17 x 9s (+24mm) with 245/45/17. I have a couple of other threads on FEP here with issues that have come up with my wheels due to the SVO brake kit having wider than normal fox length axles. Thus that is why the back wheels are sticking out a bit but for now it is growing on me and I am actually kind of liking it lol. I am going to order a new spring kit for at least the back because I think there is too much gap in the back still. I have just over 2 inches of gap in the rear and just under 1 inch in the front. I currently have the Ford Racing B springs on it which lowers the car modestly. Maybe only 0.5 to 0.75 inches in the back with the B springs. I would like to try and go for a 1.5 inch lower to close off the gap. Though I think the fronts are OK right now and will likely leave the B springs alone there.

    Let me know what you guys think?

    Name:  Anny 1.jpg
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    Last edited by 5pointoh; 12-04-2018 at 07:03 PM.
    Current Mustangs:
    82 Silver GT - 5.0L crate motor, Tremec 3550 5 spd tranny, SVO brake kit, 8.8 rear end with 373s
    05 Legend Lime Fastback - some mods
    05 Screaming Yellow Vert - even more mods including Edelbrock blower

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Front tires rubbing on the fender extensions is not unusual. Tire size, wheel width, offset, alignment, and ride height will all affect clearance or lack thereof.

    You can trim the inside of the fender extensions a bit for additional clearance if you are happy with everything else. I would be careful with your lowering in the rear. Your tires sticking out will vulnerable to damage from the wheel well lips as the suspension compresses. Reducing the ride height will only cause that to happen more often. Good Luck!
    Last edited by wraithracing; 12-06-2018 at 04:59 PM. Reason: Spelling
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3
    FEP Member 5pointoh's Avatar
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    Prior to putting on the 1/4 inch spacers I had 17 x 9 Cobra Rs in the front that seemed to be rubbing on the lower control arms. After putting on the 1/4 inch spacer and the new 17 x 9 10th Anny wheel which has the same +24mm offset as the Cobra R it now seems to rub on the inner fender extension and not on the control arms. Though I will have to look at this more carefully again and have a 2nd person look for rubbing while I crank the steering wheel slowly.

    Overall I am quite happy with the set up as the rear 17 x 10s sticking out is growing on me I was not too crazy at first but will keep this wheel set up as an alternate to my Cobra Rs. Currently I have just over 2 inches of gap in the rear wheel well so I think it will be safe to bring it down about 1 inch. I would then have just over 1 inch of gap which I think will make it look better while at the same time enough room to avoid damage to the wheel lips.
    Current Mustangs:
    82 Silver GT - 5.0L crate motor, Tremec 3550 5 spd tranny, SVO brake kit, 8.8 rear end with 373s
    05 Legend Lime Fastback - some mods
    05 Screaming Yellow Vert - even more mods including Edelbrock blower

  4. #4
    FEP Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    You can trim the inside of the fender extensions a bit for additional clearance if you are happy with everything else. I would be careful with your lowering in the rear. Your tires sticking out will vulnerable to damage from the wheel [well] lips as the suspension compresses. Reducing the ride height will only cause that to happen more often.
    Exactly my thought.

    When I put M179 Cobra Rs (17x9, +36mm backspacing) on my car with SN95 axles (1/2" shorter than the what you're running, 5pointoh), during the drive home my rear fender lips cut a big groove of rubber out of the sidewalls of the tires. Every time I hit a significant bump at highway speed, the rear suspension would compress and the fender lips would catch the tires. I was able to fix that by rolling the fender lips, but with your longer SVO axles and 16mm lower offset, I'm not sure you'll be able to do that.
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  5. #5
    FEP Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    double post
    Last edited by Patrick Olsen; 12-06-2018 at 01:38 PM.
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  6. #6
    FEP Member 5pointoh's Avatar
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    I am going to proceed with lowering it about 1 more inch or less in the back. From my experiences in the past it should be OK. I know what you guys mean by having it too low. I have an S197 that have wheels and tires that go past the fenders slightly as well and I have had no problems whatsoever there. I think the key is to be not too low and have enough clearance. For my 82 at the end of all this I should have at least 1 inch and a bit clearance in the back. The 82 is a show car/cruiser so it really will see limited mileage. There will never be anyone sitting in the back seats either. When I get the new springs put in the back I will try and post some before and after pictures.
    Current Mustangs:
    82 Silver GT - 5.0L crate motor, Tremec 3550 5 spd tranny, SVO brake kit, 8.8 rear end with 373s
    05 Legend Lime Fastback - some mods
    05 Screaming Yellow Vert - even more mods including Edelbrock blower

  7. #7
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I hope your experience is better than mine was. I had tires on my PC that sat right at the edge of the rear quarter wheel well lips and hadn't rolled them yet. Decided to take the car out for a test drive with the new lowered stance. Hit a couple of dips and gouged the heck out of both tires in no time at all. Immediately limped the car back to the house, jacked it out and started rolling the rear wheel lips. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  8. #8

    Default

    I would go to camber bolts -- even top and bottom if needed -- on the front struts. Get caster/camber plates and max out the positive caster -- shove the struts all the way back to the windshield.

    Dial in caster so its equal both sides. Then us the camber bolts to dial in camber so its equal both sides.

    You'll get around 1/4" - 3/8" more clearance in front of the tire this way and it will drive better to boot.

    You could see where your K member is vs the unibody too and see if it can go back any at all.

  9. #9
    FEP Member 5pointoh's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tip Erratic50 but my 82 does have caster/camber plates on it already. I am assuming they have been optimized already. Though I guess I should verify that. The specs of the Anny wheel/Nitto tire is exactly the same as the Cobra R wheel/Comp TA tire that I had on before. I was fortunate enough to buy my 82 from the original owner who is a professional auto tech. He built this car himself over the course of 10 years or so. Please see my intro for more pictures if you like.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...uver-BC-Canada
    Current Mustangs:
    82 Silver GT - 5.0L crate motor, Tremec 3550 5 spd tranny, SVO brake kit, 8.8 rear end with 373s
    05 Legend Lime Fastback - some mods
    05 Screaming Yellow Vert - even more mods including Edelbrock blower

  10. #10

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    From what I've seen, most alignment shops do not go through the trouble of maxing out positive caster.

    They'll set the camber where it should be then try each side and see how much they can EASILY get. And I do mean EASILY. They tend to not even touch the strut to spindle bolts because they would have to remove the tires to do so.

    My suggestion is just based upon my experience - yours may be different.

    I'm running a 245/45/17 on 17" Tribar rims in front on my 86GT. The rims are 8.5" and except under absolute extremes in turning while also driving off of a curb nothing rubs.

    And that's with a 2.5 turn 1986 rack and not the 87-93 racks that are the same ratio but limited to 2.25 turns.


    I believe I could get away with a 255/40/17 and if I were to change anything that's what I'd change. Just a little wider, just a little shorter.

  11. #11

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    Your c/c plates could be adjusted for about 1.5 degrees more caster than they currently have.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

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