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Thread: Fluid Film????

  1. #1
    FEP Member Mentok's Avatar
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    Default Fluid Film????

    So unfortunate circumstances [cough! chevy!] are forcing me to subject my rust free 83 rs to the rigors of Maine winters, and evil road salt! My sheet metal is all original and rust free, and as far as I know has never seen road salt or winter use. I've got some surface rust on my flowmaster tailpipes but that's pretty much the worst of it. Somebody told me about this fluid film stuff that I was not privy to. Anyone here try this stuff? Where should I apply it, and how much should I get?

    I'm not going to drive it on snow days as an uber to work is like 10 bucks, and the metro bus stop is a 10 min walk away. It would be a futile endeavor traction wise anyhow. My paint is original and well well weathered so I'm not worried about that. I just don't want the tinworm to wreak havoc on such a solid car. I have a newish heater core, and the rear defrost on the bubble still works. I'm replacing all 4 tires as well. It's the cancer I'm afraid of. Can anyone here educate me on this stuff? I do have access to a lift btw.
    owner of the 666th mercury produced in 1983.......neat fact! black on black 5.0 t-5 capri with no other options but fishnet seats.....coincidence.......perhaps

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    FEP Member Mentok's Avatar
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    I made it through 2 winters with my 81 ghia in my avatar pic, but needed studded rears. That was a 200-6 auto though. Completely different animal. Capri has 4:11 8.8 and a t-5, and the block is original, but nothing bolted to it or in it is. I have ten holes or 15x8 vectors to mount snow tires on. Car in question......Name:  capri3.jpg
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    owner of the 666th mercury produced in 1983.......neat fact! black on black 5.0 t-5 capri with no other options but fishnet seats.....coincidence.......perhaps

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    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Honestly I think I’d put it on blocks, sell the wheels/tires, and buy a beater first.

    Sorry your four eyed fox is paying for DD letdowns!

    you can do a mix of ATF and a thinning agent like Mineral Spirits. Anywhere I had a light coating of fluids like ATF there is NO rust regardless of how many crappy roads I was on. Rockers and floorpans are TRASH on my car.

    I drove my 86GT daily for 18 years. It has damage from the TIRE CHAINS I had to run on it a few times!! I ran studded mud and snow tires every winter I could find the $$ for a new pair.

    Poor car.....
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    For my DD I’ve made some mix of oil and other stuff from my friends garage and oiled everything in chassis. The best protection comes from sandy road I drive right after treatment, just a little rally there and let it harden for day or two.

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    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Yea, mine always saw plenty of dirt and sand and gravel.

    That reminds me .... humorous young buck stuff — on a bet I had my 86GT out on a sandbar on the MO river once by Niobrara in around 93-94. Did it near an old ferry landing while the crews were prepping to build the bridge. Got it there while the water levels were down. Once I figured out the dam was closed up and lake levels were rising quickly it became was a driver’s challenge and a wild ride getting out of there even with mud and snow tires. Was probably one of the last people in a 2WD to ever drive on that road. it’s under water by a few feet at times 20 some years later.

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    I had s friends father who treated his mid 60s Ford van every year by spraying the bottom side with kerosene. The thought process was on evaporation, a parafin(aka wax) film was left behind. Last time I saw the van in the mid 80s still had no rust.

    I see new products today that do not allow adsorption of liquids or to even adhere onto treated surfaces. Basically liquids run right off. Maybe that’s what you are thinking of.

    I would go with a beater car. 4 cyl. Aero nose is a cheap option.
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    FEP Member Mentok's Avatar
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    Unfortunately a cheap beater is out of the question as my financial situation is in dire straits right now. Been out of work for 4 months, and just started a new job. So it's basically drive it or sell it at the moment. Maine requires state inspections, and any cheap beater is going to need rust repair to pass. The capri just needs a horn to pass, and tires. It's been registered antique so I've avoided inspection thus far. You need another registered vehicle for that though. A year ago it would have been beater city as my brother is a beast with a welder, but he just moved to Florida and I don't have those tools or skills. Thanks for the tip on the ATF erratic, as I have a ridiculous amount of that in the garage. Would be the most economical option.
    owner of the 666th mercury produced in 1983.......neat fact! black on black 5.0 t-5 capri with no other options but fishnet seats.....coincidence.......perhaps

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    FEP Senior Member cb650's Avatar
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    Another thing to remember besides rust is some idiot hitting it. If that close to bus leave it home.

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    Fluid film is used by many in the rust belt .
    It is just sprayed on everything , and I mean everything that might get salt .
    As said , oil if most any kind , can be sprayed with a pump sprayer , like you would use to spray weeds and such .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

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    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Almost need to rebuild parts of cars out of oak like sailing ships. Ongoing rust battle damage.
    Or apply anti corrosion procedures like underwater pipelines, ships, and oil rigs in salt water.

    Warm salt spray is the worse. That is what is used on parts to pass corrosion tests for production certification.
    Drove mine yesterday. Dam city salt trucks were out. No snow or ice. Salt 'stones' nick up the car. Took another road.
    A salt 'stone' will find its way into a car sub frame or panel, sit there for years making rust bots.

    Drove it most every day in the 80's. Has undercoat Ziebart, Ford Superseal.
    Parked uncovered outside most of its 40 year life in the rust belt. Rust is the major problem, not mechanical.
    Driven much less now to help save it.
    Major rust out areas:
    door bottoms, panel seams, rockers, rear wheel wells, sub frame, floor pan, hatch door bottom.
    Add areas with prior collision repairs.
    Flush everything metal with water any chance you get, drive to dry.
    Ongoing battle once corrosion starts. Hidden rust appears when its too late.
    Over spraying rust with paint or undercoating can temp slow surface rust, but it stays under coatings.
    Waxy or oily treatments seem to work best. Rustoleum, rubber undercoat, bedliner,POR, chassis saver..??

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    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    A local shop here makes a concoction out of motor oil, atf and a toilet wax ring, melted in an old crock pot and sprayed on warm. Lasts forever.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
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  12. #12

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    Congratulation on the new job.


    I drove my lowered Fox '86 T-Bird as a daily driver for many years.
    So, I have a few tips:

    o) Lowered cars in the snow MEGA SUCK and are just plain not-smart.

    o) Even cheap snow tires on cheap *ss ugly rusted rims will be MUCH better all-season cr*p.

    o) "Tube-sand" (trademarked name - yes really ) RULES! If you can't get Tube-sand, use 2-3 bags of sand in the trunk/hatch. Use garbage bags to help stop/reduce sand from any hole getting in the trunk.

    o) When you can, car wash or clean the underbody. If you have a self service car wash with wands, even a quick spray underneath once a week makes a difference.

    o) Retard the timing to reduce the torque. Mostly, go very easy on the pedal and brakes.

    o) Bring tire chains/etc.
    I also had a set of those strap around cleats/whatever. They aren't nearly as good as chains. But, they were often good enough.


    o) On really bad days (blizzard/heavy snow), I learned that it's better to take the day off/loose pay, than trying to make it in a Fox car.
    If you have a garage, then you could put on chains.
    Or, take the bus.


    o) Imho, Blizzak snow tires are more than worth their cost! Assuming you don't have ABS, or even with ABS, you want/need the traction that Blizzaks give on ice, icy, hard-packed snow.
    Don't get a used set, though. The ice stopping rubber is only on the top ~half of the tread. After that, they are regular snow tires.




    Good Luck!

  13. #13

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    Huh. I just drive mine as is on winter. Make sure its topped off with coolant and that I have good tread on the tires.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
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  14. #14

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    Up here we have places that rust proof your car. A small car is about $100 and a truck or van is $175.
    They use a light oil and drill holes in the rockers and doors to access the inner panels then use s sprayer with a long wand to apply the oil.
    I use Crown but RustCheck is the original.
    My truck is 13 years old, driven every winter and parked on gravel, not a spot of rust anywhere.

    You can buy rustcheck oi crown spray and do it yourself but by the time you purchase all the materials and sprayer and spend a day on it you’d be better to pay to have it done.

    If doing it yourself, remove the door panels, front inner fenders and as much rear interior as you can to get at all the inside areas.


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    I've heard of the Fluid Film, but I've never personally used the stuff. For the last two years I have been fogging the bottom (mostly any internal passages where mud/water/salt can hide) of my wife's wagon that I bought out of Denver with some Liquid Wrench spray lithium grease. It stays in place pretty well and seems to work fine. I can usually do her car with 5-6 cans. I manually coat any steel fuel or brake lines with some wheel bearing grease. Anything else I can see while I am under there gets coated with the lithium grease spray.
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    FEP Member Mentok's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cb650 View Post
    Another thing to remember besides rust is some idiot hitting it. If that close to bus leave it home.
    That's the plan in inclement weather, but she's no show pony she's a driver. I wont own a car nice enough that other drivers scare me off the road. Precisely why I'm no longer a mopar guy I just want to protect her from the residual salt on the roads left over from the storms. Thanks for the advice guys I''m still mulling over my options as I await payday.
    owner of the 666th mercury produced in 1983.......neat fact! black on black 5.0 t-5 capri with no other options but fishnet seats.....coincidence.......perhaps

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    FEP Member Mentok's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    Huh. I just drive mine as is on winter. Make sure its topped off with coolant and that I have good tread on the tires.
    Must be different in Utah......We have 2014 mazda 3's everywhere around here with the rear wheel wells completely toast! Nobody even knows running straight water for cooling is even an option in these parts.
    owner of the 666th mercury produced in 1983.......neat fact! black on black 5.0 t-5 capri with no other options but fishnet seats.....coincidence.......perhaps

  18. #18

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    Must be. We have relatively low humidity here due to our elevation and being in a desert, even though it does snow alot. We also heavily salt the roads, and that salt will eat up good metal.

    I hose mine off at a car wash every few weeks when I drive it through snow. Funny you mentioned mazda 3's. My dad has a 2010 over 200k miles now, never been parked inside a garage. It seems fine, but at the same time, not sure I want to dig into it to find rust.

    I have noticed in the newer mazda 3's (including my dads) they have a hole behind the tire with a shelf that gets caked full of mud and dirt in summer time. My dad religously blows that out, but I think thsts why all the mazda 3's have rusted out rear quarters near the bumper.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
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    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    When spraying car at coin wash in winter, select rinse first, then straight wax.
    Spray wheel wells, rockers, etc. Don't rinse the wax off. It usually disappears.
    Soap can freeze before getting to rinse cycle.
    Avoid spraying trim, body seams, door seals if real cold out. Can freeze under and cause damage.

    Use silicone spray or dielectric grease on rubber door seals. Graphite or WD in locks.
    Duct tape over key opening for freezing rain.

    Actually can use clean snow to quick wash car body panels, glass, tire sidewalls, rims, head and tail lights.
    Done it may times in driveway. Works great with car wash brush on a mild winter day. No rinse needed.

    Any coatings that shed water and dirt, like the waxy blends, are prob best.
    Grease has a tendency to attract and retain dirt.
    Replace brake, fuel lines with SS or Poly-Armor. Fasteners with SS or black phos like factory. Zinc not that great.

    The parts that get hit the worst are areas receiving splash from tires.
    Adding plastic, rubber, deflectors can't hurt.
    Stuff like mud flaps, if even only protecting small area directly in line with tire.

    There are certain under car areas that retain slush and freeze. Slush is the worst. Full of salt and dirt.
    Had some pack up in the Ranger's inner frame section on the fuel filter and lines. Solid 2' ice pack.
    Froze the lines up. No start. Had to carefully and slowly thaw with heat gun.
    Areas like this would benefit with a temp cover of some sort. Added front mud flaps. Been ok since.

    Always hate driving in salt spray on e-way. Use up gallons of washer fluid.
    Open rad grill sucks spray in, then rad fan blows it all over engine and bay.
    Added sheet of Lexan to cover rad opening. Works great. Air enters from bottom of bumper cover.
    Been on there since the 80's. Keeps bugs and stones out of radiators, condensers, in summer.

    Have modded ws washer hose to heat fluid year round. Heated ws fluid works good in summer on bug hits.
    Disconnect, splice in several feet of new washer hose. Wrap hose tight around one heater hose.
    Will thaw out frozen washer fluid in sprayer, hose, and eventually in the tank too!
    Use good winter ws fluid. Purple. The blue stuff will refreeze and streak on widashield. Or add iso alcohol.

    Windshield covers work nicely to cover windshield when parked home, work. Frost, ice, snow slide off.
    Cheap vinyl shower curtains fine. Tuck in doors. Can use magnets to stop wind flapping.
    Also minimizes wipers from freezing to glass, covers cowl opening from weather.

  20. #20
    FEP Member Mentok's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    Must be. We have relatively low humidity here due to our elevation and being in a desert, even though it does snow alot. We also heavily salt the roads, and that salt will eat up good metal.

    I hose mine off at a car wash every few weeks when I drive it through snow. Funny you mentioned mazda 3's. My dad has a 2010 over 200k miles now, never been parked inside a garage. It seems fine, but at the same time, not sure I want to dig into it to find rust.

    I have noticed in the newer mazda 3's (including my dads) they have a hole behind the tire with a shelf that gets caked full of mud and dirt in summer time. My dad religously blows that out, but I think thsts why all the mazda 3's have rusted out rear quarters near the bumper.
    It's stupid humid here, and we also have salt air. My home is 2 miles from the ocean, and I work a block away from the docks. The reason I mentioned the Mazda 3 is I've driven a few and really like them with the 2.3 5speed. Looked around for one around the same year as your dads' for a daily/beater, and observed the ones I saw on the road. Almost all of them have rust in some stage from starting to toast in the rear wheel well area. Normally starts in the front of the wheel by the rear door. Still may get one, but this really scares me off, and the 2.3 5speed combo seems harder to find.

    gr79, you're a wealth of info! Funny you mention modding the washer fluid lines and adding alcohol. I've done this before on a friends 530i, but for a different purpose. I flushed the system and re-routed/extended the lines to come out by the center console below the dash. He wanted to run Captain Morgan to add to his big gulp cola. Real life Julian from trailer park boys pretty much.
    owner of the 666th mercury produced in 1983.......neat fact! black on black 5.0 t-5 capri with no other options but fishnet seats.....coincidence.......perhaps

  21. #21
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Haaha weee that was pretty slick. I toast my black coffee here to that.

    Co-worker said had a rusty Jeep once.
    Was driving with friends on Belle Isle, an island city park in the Detroit River..
    Had brews along. Got pulled over. Jeep had rusted out floor.
    Poured open beers down the floor holes. It worked.
    Sat for a bit after to safely hide the puddle left behind.
    Last edited by gr79; 12-04-2018 at 07:37 PM.

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    Since we're talking about winter stuff in general, I use Rain-X on all exterior windows and mirrors. Makes it a little easier to scrape the ice off.

  23. #23
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default Snow Demon

    Seen by family member:
    Black Dodge Demon being driven in Northern Michigan winter-like Fall weather.
    Snow and slush on road.
    Car first spotted in gas station, said got good look at it.

    Car is black one in truck mirror:
    Attachment 125331
    Last edited by gr79; 12-06-2018 at 11:29 PM.

  24. #24

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    The sheet metal in the 80s was garbage. I have an uphill battle fighting the rust on my car but I did give it the crown treatment back in September.
    Little rubber plugs everywhere that they injected the oils.

  25. #25
    FEP Power Member plumkrazy's Avatar
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    1. Would not wash in winter if you can not dry car completely. Water will expand and cause seams to open to unprotected metal
    2. Make sure window dew wipes are soft and intact to prevent water from getting into door.
    3. Add mud flaps to prevent splash up.
    4. Wax car
    5. Spray up under/into the hatch the lip tends to rust
    6. Pull rear speakers and spray the back side of marker lights. Water likes to get in there and rust up things

    I have used thick Film. Seems ok would take multiple cans to cover entire under carriage.
    .
    1 of 3 1985 Silver Grand Prix Capr's
    My first New car and still own 1986 Capri

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