Close



Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 26 to 39 of 39
  1. #26

    Default

    I would just tie it off somewhere safe. It won't hurt anything to keep pumping air through it.

    I got my cross member from cjpony and it was very nice, well made. Search my posts and you can find pics of it. I went with the catted h bbk pipe though. Couldn't risk smelly fumes in a convertible.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers
    GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721, K&N filter in stock dual snorkel,
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals.
    3.73 rear. CS5 225/60/15 on 10 holes (street) Federal 595 rs-rr 225/45/15 on 10 holes (race)
    Everything else stock and fully functional.

  2. #27

    Default

    Don’t get caught in Nebraska on a public road with a car that was originally equipped with cars and exhaust without cats

    Unless the engine block is 1972 and older you’re going to face an enormous fine for tampering with federally mandated emissions

    If memory serves the fine is over $5000.00 and can carry jail time.

    not worth it!

  3. #28

    Default

    Well, he is in Indiana so I assume they jail you if you don't remove the smog protections... That and if you get caught not carrying a gun.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers
    GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721, K&N filter in stock dual snorkel,
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals.
    3.73 rear. CS5 225/60/15 on 10 holes (street) Federal 595 rs-rr 225/45/15 on 10 holes (race)
    Everything else stock and fully functional.

  4. #29
    FEP Supporter GT Town's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Batesville, IN
    Posts
    75

    Default

    Yeah, I really have no issues with going full stock emissions, but also no mandates locally to do so. With going true full duals just trying to understand trade offs with a modified system. Trying to get full benefits from upgrade but staying close to stock when possible. All comments have been helpful!

  5. #30
    New User
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    South Central Ohio
    Posts
    46

    Default

    I'm converting my 85 GT to dual exhaust. You're right on about everything, but I did have to get the exhaust hanger for the transmission mount too, It seems the factory had one mount up and one down, where the later one had both mounts up. Still working on mine though. BBK shorties, Mac Prochamber, flowmaster tailipipes and hooker max flow mufflers. Kind of cobbled up assortment of parts, but got them all used.

  6. #31
    FEP Senior Member 854vragtop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    524

    Default

    I installed an '86-'93 factory H-pipe and a Dynomax cat-back system on my '85 years ago. I tried and tried, but could not get the factory H-pipe to bolt up to my stock '85 headers because of the Vacuum Operated Heat Control Valve (VOHV) on the driver-side header. I could get the bolts to thread up, but only one of header to H-pipe ball and sockets would seat completely to seal. At the time, I just replaced the '85 headers with '96-'93 fuelie headers. I took a dremel cutoff wheel and removed the heat riser from each of the factory headers and used band clamps to clamp them to the fuelie headers. I also stuck (3) bolts between the header and the heat riser (basically wrapped the heat riser around the 3 bolts and then clamped it to the header) to add some air clearance so heated air could be drawn up through the heat risers. Since going to GT-40P heads, I'm now running the Ford P-51 P specific headers (Ford Racing M-9430-P51). I did the same in order to keep the carb heat risers.


    Also found this:
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ang-GT-Exhaust
    '85 Mustang convertible GT, 5 speed, 4V
    Stock bottom end, Comp Cams XE264HR-14, GT-40P heads w/ Alex's springs, Weiand 8124 Street Warrior
    8.8 Turbo Coupe rear end w/ 3.55 gears, Lincoln 73mm front calipers, SVO M/C

    '68 Mercury Cougar, w/ '88 5.0L, 4V
    My photo website:
    http://www.twilightphoto.com/

  7. #32
    FEP Senior Member 854vragtop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    524

    Default

    Also, since we're talking about '85 mods, I've had excellent luck replacing my 4180C with the Summit 600 CFM vacuum secondary carb. MUCH better cold driveability. NO hesitation whatsoever. Tunes exactly like a Holley. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...00vs/overview/ It's the best carb that I've ever had. I've tried, rebuilt, and modified two 4180C's, but could never get them to work perfectly. There was always a very slight hesitation when shifting, especially when the motor wasn't fully warm. I played around with different shooters, different pump cams, various jets, tweaked the position of the choke to dial it in, removed .002" from the air bleed jets behind the main metering jets, dialed in the accelerator pump spring/bolt combo, etc. I had much better luck with a plain-Jane Holley 1850. But the Summit carb just plain works better. Excellent throttle response with the (4) annular boosters. It can be below freezing and I can start the car and drive off with no hesitation. Since it's a dual feed carb, I had to relocate my coil to the top of the power steering bracket so the dual feed line wouldn't hit the coil.
    '85 Mustang convertible GT, 5 speed, 4V
    Stock bottom end, Comp Cams XE264HR-14, GT-40P heads w/ Alex's springs, Weiand 8124 Street Warrior
    8.8 Turbo Coupe rear end w/ 3.55 gears, Lincoln 73mm front calipers, SVO M/C

    '68 Mercury Cougar, w/ '88 5.0L, 4V
    My photo website:
    http://www.twilightphoto.com/

  8. #33
    FEP Supporter GT Town's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Batesville, IN
    Posts
    75

    Default

    I received my new exhaust parts from LMR. I’m really happy with the quality of the Pypes system. I got my old exhaust pulled. Some crusty old Cherry Bombs and aluminized tailpipes with the old y pipe - it was a mess and has been on there a while. The new system will be awesome for sure!

    some pics of the old vs new setup and a pic underneath of the single hump trans mount with one up / one down hanger.

    Name:  45D08C51-11EC-4781-AE0B-38DF60B861BF.jpg
Views: 116
Size:  96.7 KB

    Name:  6FF4CCA0-1C85-4AF3-B685-84384801F902.jpg
Views: 113
Size:  97.3 KB

    Name:  C3A468F9-AF36-45DE-B309-12BA2A17027F.jpg
Views: 116
Size:  99.1 KB

  9. #34
    FEP Supporter GT Town's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Batesville, IN
    Posts
    75

    Default

    Single hump transmission crossmember.

    Name:  5E03CCCF-18BE-48F3-9561-B7A651A6093B.jpg
Views: 112
Size:  103.1 KB

  10. #35
    FEP Supporter GT Town's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Batesville, IN
    Posts
    75

    Default

    Brake lines have some issues.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by GT Town; 12-22-2018 at 12:50 PM.

  11. #36
    FEP Supporter GT Town's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Batesville, IN
    Posts
    75

    Default

    I don't post a lot on the forum, but I check it every night after work. My slow internet out here in the sticks makes it hard to upload photos. But I've got some time off for the holidays, so hoping to update some of what I've been up to.

    This thing is starting to snowball the deeper I get into it. I took my interior out this summer with the intention of cleaning it up, getting some new carpet and putting it back together. I found more projects with each step and ended up starting on the suspension. Bolted in some torque box reinforcements and Maximum Motorsports rear lower control arms. Found a dirt cheap set of new Tokico shocks and installed the rears. I drove it with no interior all summer and had a blast with it.

    When I got it up in the air for the exhaust project, I noticed brake fluid spray on my new MM arms and above the center section of the rear end. So while I have access with the exhaust out, I'm planning to install new brake lines. And while I'm at that, I thought I'll do new fuel lines as well. So I ordered the complete brake line and fuel/return lines from Classic Tube. Nice folks there by the way!
    Name:  classic-tube.jpg
Views: 98
Size:  45.0 KB

    I found some rust in the trans tunnel and need to see what's going on there. Also, the bracket that the crossmember bolts to has a broken weld and is loose.
    Name:  trans-tunnel-rust.jpg
Views: 98
Size:  66.6 KB

    So, while I've got it this apart, I've been thinking it might be a lot easier to pull the 7.5 out to give me more access to clean up the bottom of the car, deal with any rust and install the new lines, exhaust and other parts. I wouldn't mind going through the rear end to freshen it up. I've looked high and low locally for an 8.8 and am coming up short. I really don't intend to beat on it and have no plans to add much power, so I really think the 7.5 will do me fine.

    I need to get a game plan together so I can be back driving by the summer. I remember reading a post from Trey a few months back saying to get the mechanicals figured out before the cosmetics. I started the other way, but have realized, first hand, the wisdom of this comment! Any advice or comments from you guys are welcome!
    Last edited by GT Town; 12-23-2018 at 07:21 AM.

  12. #37
    FEP Supporter GT Town's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Batesville, IN
    Posts
    75

    Default

    The factory sound deadener can be deceiving. This is the passenger side. Good place for moisture to sit in there under the factory seam sealer.

    Name:  85transtuntop1.jpg
Views: 95
Size:  129.4 KB

    Name:  85transtuntop2.jpg
Views: 97
Size:  99.9 KB

  13. #38
    New User
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    South Central Ohio
    Posts
    46

    Default

    Looks like you are in for a project, but better to fix the rust now. Just replaced the rear brake line on my 85 last year. It took a couple of tries to get a rear brake line that was close, still had to bend it at the rear body block. Apparently, the 85 is a one year only rear brake line configuration. This winter I'm putting in an 8.8 and true duals also, so now I got the 8.8 block, along with the rubber line off an 8.8, so now I'll have to rebend it back into the new block. So point being, if you are ever going to go to an 8.8, now would be the time. There's a 3.55 in Wilmington, Ohio. Not sure how far that is from you.

    Good Luck!

  14. #39
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    12,307

    Default

    Your rust area is where the factory cut the floor pan and added the shifter tower to the floor. Unfortunately the way the floor was cut, the added tower, and the general lack of sealing by the factory can lead to these areas rusting out over time. Luckily that is an easy area to make repairs to. I personally would cut out the rust, patch as needed. Then make sure everything is painted, sealed, and caulked to prevent any further rust issues. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •