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  1. #1

    Default Rear hatch latches

    I'm putting together my 85 GT hatch and have run into a problem I'm not sure what to do with. The problem is that my car's original hatch is long gone and had been replaced by a newer 86-93 hatch.... The problem is that when I put the 85 hatch lock on it doesn't line up with the striker on the car, it appears that the lock won't allow the hatch to even close all the way.......it isn't inside the car enough......The hatch lines up perfectly without the latches....Did they change the latch mechanisms somewhere along the line? Any ideas are welcomed!... PW84

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The hatch striker bolt year model break down is as follows:

    1981-1986
    1987-1991
    1991-1993

    First I would verify the diameter of the actual latch when closed. You can use a screw driver to move the latch jaws into the closed position. If the opening between the jaws when closed is very small then the odds are you have the very late model 91-93 latch and will require the matching striker bolt. If the opening appears to match up with the bushing size on your latch striker then you can probably try to make it work as is.

    Second it sounds like your striker bolt is in the wrong location. You will have to remove the rear interior hatch panel to gain access to the striker bolt, then using a T50 torx bit you can loosen the bolt slightly to move it into the correct position for everything to line up. You can remove the striker bolt entirely to verify that the hatch will close properly with the latch assembly in place. Hope that helps!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3

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    Did the later years use that same bushing on the strike like my 83 has? The bushing was missing on my 83 when I got it & the hatch was nearly impossible to close until I replaced the strike. Night & Day difference. I am guessing this is not the problem, but thought it might be worth asking?

  4. #4
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Both the 81-86 and 87-91 use the plastic bushing just like the door strikers. I honestly am not sure what the differences are between the two parts. I would have to hold them side by side to verify. The 91-93 doesn’t use the bushing and is a smaller diameter striker.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Both the 81-86 and 87-91 use the plastic bushing just like the door strikers. I honestly am not sure what the differences are between the two parts. I would have to hold them side by side to verify. The 91-93 doesn’t use the bushing and is a smaller diameter striker.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    The 91-93 doesn’t use the bushing and is a smaller diameter striker.
    As per usual Ford practice, it was actually a mid-'91 change. So the LATE '91 had it. From 5/91 and on. And let me say, there is currently one sitting in my garage and it is a VASTLY improved piece over the plastic surround in previous years. No rattles and even better, it does not move. Which means there will not be spots on your quarter panels where the hatch lid has knocked paint off the quarter panels.
    Last edited by homer302; 11-03-2018 at 06:14 PM.

  7. #7

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    Thanks for all the input, now for the update. I had the guy who did my paint job come over because it was obvious that the back of the hatch was sticking out on the passenger side over the taillight about and inch and on the drivers side the gap was about half of that. He took off the hatch struts, kept the hatch in the raised position and loosened the right side hinge, lowered the hatch and the did the same to the drivers side, which closed the gap evenly on both sides as well as decreasing the gap at the top of the hatch and the back of the roof. Everything looked good, since then I've reinstalled the struts (brand new), and went to install the latch on the inside of the hatch which didn't line up.....it would not allow the latch to clear the rear panel (where the striker is)...so while checking this out I noticed that the gap at the top of the hatch had opened up again to what is was before and now sits like it did when I had the painter come over....I'm not sure where to go from here......I've pulled the hatch struts off and the hatch seems to clear the striker better....is it possible that the new hatch struts are not allowing the hatch to fit properly at the roof line or any other ideas.....hatch striker doesn't appear to be the problem, I'm open to any suggestions to try before I have to call the painter to make a house call at $70.00 per hour....thanks PW84

  8. #8
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Best practice is to remove the hatch struts, make all your hatch adjustments and fitting, then reinstall the struts.

    First remove the striker bolt entirely so it doesn't affect the hatch in anyway.

    Second is to align the hatch side to side and adjust for and aft. You need enough clearance at the roof for the hatch to open, but need to make sure you also have it far enough back so that hatch doesn't rub against the quarter panel at the tail lights. Keep in mind you may also need to add or subtract shims to get the hatch to sit level with the roof too.

    Once you are happy with the hatch alignment, make sure you tighten the two hinge bolts. Now adjust the rear rubber bumpers to level the hatch and make sure you have clearance above the quarter panels. Keep things tight so the hatch gasket seals (You did install a new one right! ) but gives you enough clearance so nothing rubs.

    Now that the hatch is aligned, level, and sitting correctly you can reinstall the striker bolt and adjust until you can easily shut the hatch and the latch engages without moving the hatch out of alignment in anyway.

    NOW reinstall your hatch struts, if then the hatch pushes or pulls to one side or the other, try flipping the struts side to side first. If you still have an issue did it switch sides. If so you may have a bad strut or one hanging up. Hope that helps.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  9. #9

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    Where do I find out how to post pictures with my reply.....couldn't find directions...PW84

  10. #10

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    Well thanks for all the information, it has been helpful today. I took everything off the hatch, ie: struts and latch and started again with a new rubber seal. I was able to move the hatch closer to the back of the roof without any metal rubbing issues, then after centering the hatch I replaced the struts, then raised and lowered it several times and it seemed to work fine, staying centered and no rubbing issues. I then remounted the latch and with a little adjusting I was able to clear the rear hatch mechanism and close the hatch mostly. Now the latch bushing is not triggering the latch to close the hatch firmly. From the inside I can see that either the latch bushing may not be the right size to trigger the latch. I know the hatch is from an 87 to 93 because of the spoiler and the wiring for the back stop light. The latch bushing measures approximately 5/8" in diameter and I'm not sure if it is the original 85 or 87-91, it doesn't look like the 91-93 since it looks thinner than the 5/8" diameter I already have. Again any suggestions would be appreciated and I do have some pictures but don't know how to post them to this forum.....PW84

  11. #11
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pw84 View Post
    Where do I find out how to post pictures with my reply.....couldn't find directions...PW84
    Click on the picture frame icon in the tool bar at the top of the reply box. That is the third icon from the far right. That will open a pop up window that will allow you to attach a picture from your computer or via a URL one at a time. Hope that helps.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  12. #12

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    I've included some pictures of my hatch from various angles to give a current idea of the overall fit and the issues that still need some work. The pictures of the top gap between the hatch and the roof show a width gap of about a 1/4 inch and also a drop of about 1/4 inch height. There is plenty of clearance between the roof and hatch when opened, so it seems a little to much gap both ways, but I'm not sure......any input would be appreciated......I don't have any way to know what is normal here. I've also included pictures of the latch and striker which seem to fit together fine.....maybe the interference when closing the hatch is due to the gaps at the top of the hatch.....I also found out that the passenger side top hatch hinge was replaced without any shims which could account for the gaps in height and width at the very top next to the roof.........again any thoughts are appreciated, this hatch thing is slowly trying my patienceName:  IMG_1398.jpg
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  15. #15
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The Top gap will vary from vehicle to vehicle there is NO specific # that will guarantee fitment.

    Based upon the picture of the hatch at the tail lights the hatch appears to need to move forward on the body to close up the gap at the back of the car. The easiest way to do that is to put some masking tape on both the leading edge of the hatch and the roof line. Then just barely loosen the hatch hinge bolts. This will allow you to move the hatch with some force but only in slight amounts. Although I would probably shim the passenger side first if it is low. Get the hatch even with the top of the roof and then adjust it fore and aft.

    Also keep in mind the body line of the roof is dropping at it meets the hatch so the hatch is technically lower, but the leading edge should be almost level or just slightly below the roof line. Also the gap at the roof should hopefully be even across the top no matter what the actual measurement is. That is assuming the roof, quarters, and hatch are all original to the car. If anything has been replaced, then things might not be lined up perfect. The hatch in the back should either line up with the lens of the tail lights or just hang over slightly. I can get you pictures of the Saleen Clone here at the shop or my 82 RS to show correct alignment tomorrow if that helps.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  16. #16

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    Okay thanks again. I'll work on it tomorrow.......great help, I like the masking tape idea and it should make it easier to shim the hinges if I needed. If its not to much trouble it would be helpful to have pictures of a correctly fitted hatch....Thanks again for all your help!...PW84

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