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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    Default Lowering springs and struts/shocks

    Just wanted to toss this out for opinions. Car is 86 Capri 5.0, weekend cruiser. I would like to try this set up.
    KYB struts and shocks, Eibach sportsline springs and max motorsports caster-camber plates. Looking for opinions. All welcomed.

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  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    My .02 for what it's worth. I am not a fan of KYB's on a Fox. I always thought they were too stiff and rode like crap. I know others like them and some say the AGX are pretty good, but I have never tried them.

    I know you are limited with the 86 spindle design in regards to struts, so there are few options. If it were me and I wanted to keep the stock spindles, then I would go with the Eibach Pro Kit that includes all the struts, shocks, and springs. Yes it is more $$ but its a complete system designed to work together with matched dampers to spring rates. I also recommend reading thru all of Maximum's Tech in regards to dampers and spring rates. https://www.maximummotorsports.com/S...Tech-C568.aspx Very good information there and can really help to prevent you from mismatching your setup. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    Thanks Trey will ck out eibach pro kit.

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  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    Trey, looked at eibach kit not much more than trying to figure out separate components sns hoping they work. Most likely will buy, trying to decide if easier to install with in engine in car or do without engine in.

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  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dtmilsap View Post
    Trey, looked at eibach kit not much more than trying to figure out separate components sns hoping they work. Most likely will buy, trying to decide if easier to install with in engine in car or do without engine in.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Installing front springs without the engine in the car is a major PITA! Lowering springs are a bit easier, but still a major PITA. With no weight over the K member, the front springs will just want to lift the whole front end when you try to compress the spring into position. I will admit that I generally don't use a spring compressor with lowering springs since I can generally do it quicker and easier without. Besides in my experience the ONLY spring compressor that works well with the Fox front suspension is the Ford Rotunda unit or similar style such as the OTC 7045B https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7045B-Fro...ords=otc+7045b If you are using one of these then engine in or out won't matter. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  6. #6

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    Like Wraith says, doing springs without the tool is a major pain. I was able to do mine without it, but I don't recommend it. Regular springs don't compress enough with external spring compressors. I had the K member out for a clean and repaint. K member went back in with lower arms in place and a 2 hour fruitless fight to get one spring in. I finally removed the control arm bolts, loaded the spring and control arm on a hydraulic jack and compressed to where the control arm was sort of close. I used another jack to push the control arm into place and land the bolts. Other side went quicker of course. Engine was in. One twist the wrong way and I could have been removing a spring from the neighbor's house!
    W

    As always, "It ain't what you don't know that gets you, it's what you think you know that just ain't so."

  7. #7

    Default

    I'll second the KYB struts and shocks with Eibach springs being stiff. I put mine on probably 15 years ago. I thought that was just how those springs should be, but have realized that the KYBs are the problem. I have a set of Koni yellows ready to go when I get my k-member mods done. I hope it will be a big improvement.

    I saw a tip somewhere years ago where you leave the strut attached at the spindle and use it as a lever to release the spring. I know that works at the j/y. Not sure if it helps when putting them back in. But lower springs are easier to get in, so that helps.

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    On my 84 GT, I'm currently running SR springs 1.5" lowering springs from American Muscle and Monroe OE Spectrum (Sensatrac) shocks and struts with SVE caster/camber plates from LMR. I honestly love the ride of the car as it is firm and crisp, but maintains a very comfortable ride around town or down the interstate.

    As for removing and installing front springs, here is what I found makes quick work of it with no extra bs to deal with. It's also fairly cheap and safe. I have loaned this out to a handful of people who couldn't believe it worked as well as it did.

    For about $30, you can pick this up at the auto parts store.

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    Cut about this much off the end of end of it, as it will be too long otherwise

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    And then install in spring, compress it, put the spring in the pocket, bolt everything up and remove. It takes a little bit to unscrew and retrieve all the parts from inside the spring and get them out of the hole in the control arm, but its not bad.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    Thank you all for the info. I guess I will wait until engine is back in car to lower.

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  10. #10
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I was never willing to modify the internal spring compressor, but I had thought that would help make it work better. I still don't like it, but definitely a cheaper option than the OTC tool. Although I will admit that once you use the OTC style tool you won't want to use anything else. Definitely a quality tool that does exactly what you need/want it to do. Just used it to install the springs for the 429 CJ in the 71 Coupe here at that shop! Literally had both springs installed in less than 30 minutes and probably closer to 20 minutes all while BS'ing with a buddy!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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