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Thread: Wire hiding

  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Default Wire hiding

    Being disgusted with the wiring mess I was dealing with, I decided to start tucking. I pulled out the inner wheel wells, cleaned up 35 yrs of dirt, and got started. I am running the power locks, and defrost wires in the pass well, around the radiator support, to the solenoid the will be mounted in the drivers well, along with the pass headlight harness. Which leads me to a few questions.

    Is there any reason not to move the duraspark box under the drivers seat? I noticed Basin Motorsports moves his computer under the pass seat, so I donít see why I canít. Just lengthen the wires.

    Best spot for the coil? Or just leave it there?

    Finally, Iíve identified every wire, except one that comes out with the harness, is solid blue, and appears to be a 12 ga wire. Whatís it for?
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  2. #2

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    There is probably the blue wire on each side. It's the horn wire. At least on my 85 there is a horn on each side and the wire is blue. I'm in the process of replacing all the fusible links with a fuse box and rewiring my 85 and hiring the wiring.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Thanks. Looking up the horn, that’s what it’s for. There is one down fall to hiding all the wires. There are 68,000 holes everywhere.

  4. #4

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    Yeah there are. And I made more!!! haha. SO far only 2. One at the front right ds where all my wires will come thru to the fusebox. I am not taking off my fender to find a blown fuse! And one right behind the shock tower by the booster to run all the wires into the fender area.

    Scott Rod fabrication makes weld in and rivet in smooth panels to get rid of all of those holes. Or you could weld them up. I'm just not going to worry with it. People will ask or comment, when you get rid of all the wires under the hood, all you see are holes. LOL

    Which is true.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Decided to take the nose, and fenders off. Made life a lot easier, and only took about 30 minutes to do. Now I’m just debating on shortening the main harness, or just fold it like the factory did. The headlights are finished, and protected by a loom. Name:  8A154DE5-227E-47E4-A012-7841EAD52D17.jpg
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  6. #6

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    Perfect timing, I started the same yesterday. I see we have the same taste in struts as well...lolName:  IMG_7586.jpg
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  7. #7
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    Yeah, I feel your pain-----
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    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Haven’t done anything worth pictures, but the only things left to hook to the solenoid, are the electric fan power, alt, and the battery. Everything I’ve learned about the clutch fan, vs electric, makes we wish I’d gone clutch fan. Might save 2 hp with the electric, and get better cooling at idle, but a cleaner install for sure.

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    Looks good. It's such a PITA, but it looks great when it's done.

  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Ran the alt wire tonight. If anyone has an idea for the starter, I’m all ears. Name:  17F9CCF8-1CFE-478D-B1C8-0D8FDB00B0B2.jpg
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  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Have the starter cable done. Just have to hook up the battery positive, and my horn. Pretty up the electric fan, and make sure the car starts first, and the fenders are ready to go back on. I’ll be sure to post final engine bay pics. All in all, it isn’t hard, just a lot of thinking, and patience.

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    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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Size:  111.0 KB starter cable sneaks in beside the radiator, wrapped in black braided flex to help hide it.

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Size:  49.8 KB crimping tool. 30 bucks well spent

  13. #13
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Looks good.

    I do have to ask why you put the starter relay on the driver side and not on the passenger? I would rather have to lengthen the smaller gauge wires and run much shorter heavy gauge wires than vice versa. Your wire sizes are probably fine, I am just not a huge fan of having the starting and charging wires that long and being in such a vulnerable area in the front bumper. Not trying to be overly critical, but safety wise I have some concerns.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

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  14. #14
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Trey,

    To tell you the truth, every site I researched, they did it on the drivers side. Not sure why. My original thought was the pass side, due to break downs, your on the “good” side of the road. I believe a lot of people do it on the drivers side due to the main wire harness can come out the firewall, and be instantly hidden. And honestly, I figure if I’m an an accident bad enough to crush the bumper, I’ve got bigger problems. For the record, I’m running a 4 ga. alt cable, 2 ga. starter cable, and a 1/0 battery cable. Original plan called for putting the battery in the trunk. With the exhaust and fuel tank in, I said screw that, too much work.

  15. #15

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    The tucked wires is a neat look. One thing to really watch out for is places where wires can rub through insulation or get pinched in an accident. If you don’t add some form of fuse or link in those circuits you stand the chance of burning your ride to the ground. Just keep it in mind.

  16. #16
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Erratic, I fused my alt cable, but nothing else. I still need to hook up my quick disconnect on the battery. I’ve covered all my bases to prevent rubbing. Now I want to figure out the engine ground. I’m thinking a 6 gauge wire from the engine to frame from a perfect bolt hole on the block. Name:  F0297353-E361-4938-92AF-69153B89DA44.jpg
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  17. #17
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Speaking of battery grounds, can’t I run my negative to the block, then from the block, to the frame? This is how my Excursion is set up.

  18. #18
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    I’ve since added a Fastronix 250 amp fuse directly below the battery. Turned out nice. They make nice products. Name:  E8524AEF-0399-491F-A776-A90E31C2D61A.jpg
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  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by droopie85gt View Post
    Yeah there are. And I made more!!! haha. SO far only 2. One at the front right ds where all my wires will come thru to the fusebox. I am not taking off my fender to find a blown fuse! And one right behind the shock tower by the booster to run all the wires into the fender area.

    Scott Rod fabrication makes weld in and rivet in smooth panels to get rid of all of those holes. Or you could weld them up. I'm just not going to worry with it. People will ask or comment, when you get rid of all the wires under the hood, all you see are holes. LOL

    Which is true.
    Did you finish the fuse box? where did you mount it?

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