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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Default Heater core replacement

    It looks like my svo needs a new heater core So which brands have you guys used and which ones fit the best? It looks like Motorcraft is the only one that is still made from brass at twice the price as the aluminum aftermarket parts.
    I have never done a hater core in a foureye dash. Is it any worse than an aero nose car? I have those down to about 6-1/2 hours.
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  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The job is essentially the same for the Four Eyed Cars and the Aero cars. Obviously there are differences between the dash and consoles, but you already know the basics of what has to be done.

    I personally have used the Motorcraft unit as well as Oreilly/AZ/Napa aluminum heater cores over the years. Honestly haven't had any issues with the aluminum units. I do usually do a low pressure test of the core before installing. Simple thumb over one end and air pressure to the other to verify there aren't any leaks before install. IMHO the biggest issues are caused by people being rough when connecting the heater hoses to the cores. I personally spray some lube on the hose and tube before starting to make it easier for the hose to slide in place. I generally use the metal heater hose assembly from the later model cars on all my Foxes as I like the look better. If using that setup I make sure to be extra careful when installing the hoses since there is limited space. I generally install on the engine first and then carefully install on the heater core making sure not to yank or pull on the hose ends. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

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  3. #3
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Good to know about the aluminum ones. Easier for me to stop and get one at AZ than the Ford dealer. Thanks again Trey.
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  4. #4
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    If you have a non-A/C factory car it is a breeze. Installs like a cassette right through the glove box opening. Remove the glove box door, remove the panel behind it. Remove hoses and slip it out in to the passenger compartment. I put three of them in my '83 when I had it. Could do it in less than an hour easy. Lower coolant level just enough to do the core and top it up after.

    If you have an A/C car it is more involved.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

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  5. #5

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    I have mostly used the Motorcraft ones but the last one I did I used an aluminum one and the heat was actually outstanding and I had no issues with it either as Trey said. I don't think the current ones deserve a bad reputation. I think the heat may be better with the aluminum units. Anyway. I have nothing to back that up with. You are doing it wrong if it takes 6 1/2 hours and it's not your first one. If it's your first one then ABSOLUTELY it takes that long. I can do it in 2 and USUALLY don't have to let out the AC refrigerant. You can't do it with all of them but most of them you can get apart without discharging the AC. If you are removing the Heater controls and instrument cluster, glove box, headlight switch and radio then you are definitely doing it wrong. None of that needs to go. It was all installed at the factory with all that installed together and it can be removed easily with all that installed. The dash was installed fully assembled. Unfortunately, The "official" heater core replacement thread on here most people use does say to do that but all that is a waste. If you scroll through enough pages you will see where I tried to correct that years ago, LOL.
    Last edited by homer302; 10-27-2018 at 06:32 PM.

  6. #6
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    Just wrapping up the heater core job on my 92. I think the later ones might be slightly easier as the dash can be flipped out of the way. I don’t see how anyone can do it in under 6 hours on an ac car. I prefer to just take my time and the space is just too tight with the ac connected.
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  7. #7
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    So do the aluminum pieces fit as good as original or are they thinner and need a bunch of extra foam to keep from moving around? That's the problem I have had in the past with my 60's cars.
    Current Mustangs
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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    So do the aluminum pieces fit as good as original or are they thinner and need a bunch of extra foam to keep from moving around? That's the problem I have had in the past with my 60's cars.
    You are all over it. BINGO, now tell him what he's won Bill. They do have a little extra foam. Here was mine







    Last edited by homer302; 10-28-2018 at 02:43 PM.

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I’ve blown a lot more AL cores than OE cores for what it’s worth. The last AL popped with the car at operating temperature with a flow restricter in place on the input side.

    the Mcparts thermostats do not open as much as the factory ones did and the Mcparts caps seem to be all over the place on pressure. There is some truth to improper hose handling ruining cores but it’s also metal fatigue as the motor moves around. Check your engine and trans mounts!

    for me my answer is OE cores.

    Flow Restricters are a must.

    I now run a UPR under drive pulley set on my 86 because I like to rev it to the moon. The water flow is a bit inadequate without a cobra style small water pump pulley I’m finding. That will amount to around a 5-10% under drive vs factory pulleys once it’s done and should be about right.

    Definately keep your foot out of them before they are warmed up. Lube helps with installing lines. I could probably swap a heater core while sleeping as I’ve done at least 8 between my car and my son’s 86. They are an enormous pain in the butt, even if you cut the top edge of the heater box to make install/removal possible without unbolting the heater box.

    Good luck!

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Hmmmm. I dont drive the car all the time but I do drive it enough. But the car is all stock other than exhaust. So maybe the aluminum part is ok. But it sounds like the fit is what I'm used to and I don't like it.
    Current Mustangs
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  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    I could probably swap a heater core while sleeping as I’ve done at least 8 between my car and my son’s 86. They are an enormous pain in the butt, even if you cut the top edge of the heater box to make install/removal possible without unbolting the heater box.
    Good luck!
    I think Erratic and myself have lived the same life sometimes, HaHa. Obviously 5.0s ruled my town back then like every other town. I became the "Heater core Guy" for everyone. We are talking @1986-87 but I would charge $150 to change them out. Fastest one I ever did (with AC obviously) was 1 hour 45 minutes start to finish. If you don't want to do the math that's $75 an hour back in 1986. Not bad work if you can get it. I agree the OEM ones are likely better. The one above I bought to fix up and then sell in the first place and the aluminum ones are much cheaper. I ended up keeping it a few years though and it did just fine with a restricter in place. I actually liked the fit and the heat was awesome which was appreciated since it was a T Top car and I never drove it once with the tops in.
    Last edited by homer302; 10-28-2018 at 05:23 PM.

  12. #12
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    I think Erratic and myself have lived the same life sometimes, HaHa.
    On some stuff, I think its possible!

    I don't want to know how many "lifetime warranty" heater cores I went through before I figured out the crappy cross-member mount and broken down mount on the passenger side is what was killing them!

    When its a daily driver and funds to keep it on the road are non-existent there are levels of need. Heat vs decreased vibration I'll take heat.

    With where I was in life with two different insurance companies declaring bankruptcy after collecting my premiums and hanging me with 10's of thousands of dollars in medical bills that every hospital and doctor you can think of thought they had to have RIGHT NOW .... it was a time where bald tires were not flat tires, used tires were new to me, and I was more concerned with diapers on my kid's bottom and food in their bellies (not mine many times) and a roof over their head, etc. And seemingly forever on the 1.9 months behind on the mortgage, etc.

    I think I might have a picture of the oak trans mount that I made then shielded with an old bicycle tube somewhere...... And the turnbuckle I cobbled in where the passenger mount goes. was a good day when they went in the trash in favor of a new parts!! That passenger motor mount was a mess by the time that day came around!

    2.5 hours on a heater core swap?! WOW -- I know you have me beat on that. But I was usually doing them with frozen fingers, what's my time handicap on that?

    Thankfully I'm not as efficient as them as I used to be. That's probably because I finally just said screw it and bypassed my heater core several years ago on my 86GT that I love to rev to the moon (or at least the limiter) almost every chance I get.

    It will get redone correctly when I blow the 86 apart and go through it. Gotta get the my 85 done first though.

  13. #13
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    Since this current project 92, is due for a new owner, I used a Spectrum brand which was aluminum and included the foam. Getting the old one out of the case was harder than expected. I could not get the heater case back far enough to get the 4th screw out. Could not find even find the screw. The top cover lifted up enough for removal but the heater core was just stuck. Finally got it out and the new one slipped right in. I did find the restrictor already in the heater hose. Just a few more things to wrap up at the steering column. It was the original Ford heater that I took out.

    I’m sure those who do it quicker benefit maybe from just a little extra space. Given the tolerances on these cars, a little extra room can make a big difference in adding a couple of inches to work with. On this 92, the ac line bend was right up on the firewall seam. I pull the main wiring harness out from behind the line and it gave some extra room to work with. In this case, it still was not much.

    The 2 year warranty is for the next guy to worry about.

    With that said, I know the 84 GT needs a new heater core. I have a NOS Ford one on hand for that.
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  14. #14
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    duplicate post
    Last edited by KevinK; 10-29-2018 at 12:13 PM. Reason: Dup
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
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    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    That’s pretty much how I would have played it too I think.

    If the OE didn’t look too bad I may have cooked it out and soldered it back up is the other thing.

    Ive had it where you have to shove a screwdriver through the cores and pry to get them to budge before. The heater box on my son’s late 86 convertible is at least 3/4” closer to the windshield than the box on my early 86GT was. Makes heater core swaps a lot harder— more butchering of the heater box required to make the swap without pulling the box out and loosing the AC charge.

    As my luck went, the next thing I knew the AC charge puked out when the AC condenser blew a month later anyway. Pressure switch stuck and that’s what decided to let go. Surprising it wasn’t a line or the evaporator honestly.

    Old cars aren’t for everyone, that’s for sure. Some of them are a much bigger antichrist than others though too. I swear some of them may need to be parted out just as a way of getting even or something. Damn things would probably fall off the jack and cripple someone or something... lol

    My cousin had a mid 70’s Mercury comet that was that way. It was forever unreliable and the rest of the time just broken. After he passed away during his service in the Navy in 89 there was a certain satisfaction that came for my uncle as he pulled the levers on his 4240 loader that had at least 4 tons of wheel weights secured in the bucket and crushed that damn car. Amazing how flat you can make a car like that. It was just over a foot tall when it was all done. Not a part removed first either, just flattened and dragged away for scrap metal.

    Lets just say there’s a certain foxbody in my life that caused me to consider it a time or two. So glad Brock helped solve the wiring nightmare or it was a goner for sure.
    Last edited by erratic50; 10-29-2018 at 02:46 PM.

  16. #16
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Ok so thats two that have leaked right out of the box. Does anyone remember the brands they used? I was looking at Rock Auto and of course they have multiple brands with price ranges from $20 to $40 for the aluminum cores. No Motorcraft part listed. My experience is usually you get what you pay for but that isn't always the case.
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  17. #17
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    I got a Motorcraft one. All brass.

    After doing that job, I never want to do it again, so I paid whatever. Took my old Ford one to a radiator shop to have it resealed, and I'll keep it on hand.

    I was able to pull the box forward enough on my car to wedge the lid open enough to get it out. I was seriously afraid I was going to break the evaporator. Next time, which is hopefully never, I will suck the A/C charge out and loosen the evaporator.

    Oh and I completely removed the dash. It made things so much easier being able to work right up on the heater box. I couldn't imagine doing that with the dash hanging there.
    Last edited by 85stanggt; 11-03-2018 at 08:48 AM.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
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  18. #18
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Parts geek is another place to look for motorcraft.

  19. #19
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    I called one of my local Ford dealers this morning. The Motorcraft part is now obsolete. There are a couple still left at other dealers so I wont know until Monday if they are actually available. $127 plus s&h. If that doesn't pan out I might just fix mine.
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  20. #20
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Well I got the phone call today I didn't want to hear. No more available. I see NPD has the Mototcraft listed and it says in stock. Might bite the bullet and pay the price to get one from them.
    Current Mustangs
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    1984 SVO 9W
    1985 Saleen #132

  21. #21

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    So I am a little confused. You got 2 aluminum ones that leaked out of the box or 2 30 year old brass ones that have been shuffled around for 3 decades that leaked? I did post way earlier that I had good luck with an aluminum one.

  22. #22
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Homer, do you remember what brand you used?
    I have not bought any yet. I would just prefer the original brass part because it fits better than the aluminum parts that I have used in my older mustangs
    Current Mustangs
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    1984 SVO 9W
    1985 Saleen #132

  23. #23
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    Jc Whitney had some MC listed on eBay but they just cancelled my order.
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    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
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  24. #24
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    Hi guys...
    Just bought an 83 LTD with 3.8L, with AC. The heater core was bypassed, not sure why or how long ago. Car has been parked for a long time, only 30,000 actual miles. I've always been a genuine Motorcraft part guy...if you get cheap parts they might last about as long as a cheap part costs... LOL. No way I'd try to do this job myself, have to assume its' bypassed for a reason. But still need to get a new core put in.... oh boy

  25. #25
    FEP Member SECESH's Avatar
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    One thing to bear in mind with heater cores etc is coolant acidity. You can check it in seconds with a multimeter of all things. With a cool system, open the cap and check, using the lowest DC range, for voltage between the coolant in the radiator and ground. Do not touch metal with the red lead, just the liquid. Any voltage present tells you that your coolant is now acting like the acid in a battery, and will be eating away at things such as the inside of your heater core.
    Changing the coolant helps make things last longer. There is also CSA, coolant system additive, used by commercial truckers to get more mileage out of their large quantities of antifreeze.
    I have aluminum cores in several vehicles, I like the brass ones because I can solder them, same as I do brass radiators.
    Married to the same Mustang since 03/29/82

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