Close



Results 1 to 19 of 19
  1. #1

    Default Project Vanilla Coupe

    New to forum, but not fox Mustangs. I found a 1982 Vanilla/Medium Vanilla 2 tone coupe with vanilla interior, (starting to sound like the car is and ice cream cone). It has the I6 and auto transmission. The car is straight and interior in reasonable shape for its age (dash pad cracked, driver seat vinyl splitting on bottom otherwise good to go), and the owner is asking $1200. I have a 1991 5.0 Auto Convertible that has seen its better days (needs paint and a whole lot of trim pieces, interior faded), but it only has 108000 miles and runs and drives good. Which leads me to seek advice from the forum. Immediate plan is to get these things done first, then possible go crazy with mods.
    1. Remove from the 82: Engine, trans, rear end, all suspension, brakes, and k member.
    2. Swap all suspension components, including K member, rear axle, a arms, spindles, struts, and brakes, from the 91 and put under the 82.
    3. Swap 5.0 bone stock engine and convert auto to T5.
    Questions/advise
    1. Since the 82 is Carbureted would you convert EFI motor to Carbureted? If not, how would you go about converting 82 to EFI (EECIV or aftermarket [read Fast EZ-EFI])?
    2. Will I run into issues swapping out suspension components?
    3. Are there any stumbling blocks/nuances to doing the T5 conversion on an 82 compared to 87-93 cars.
    4. Am I crazy for even contemplating this?

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    It’s been done numerous times before

    the k member in the 82 is more narrow at the A arm bolts than the 91

    you may have a steering shaft problem to solve — can’t remember what years are dis-similar right now off the top of my head

    The cheapest route to a car that runs as good as it does right now is to source wiring from an 86 V8 car. Convert the EFI pinouts over to MAF and use your existing ECU or get the ECU and map sensor with the 86 harness and convert your vacuum line routing to Speed Density EFI

    you will want a 60 pin extender and an ECU bracket to put your ECU under the passenger seat. Otherwise it takes considerable surgery to make it fit in the footwell in the passenger side like the 91 does.

    Brake lines and Fuel lines and cross member and exhaust can come over from the 91

    Crazy? No way. I’ve always viewed the aero cars and SN95’s as parts cars for the Four Eyed foxes

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member onetrackrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Denver, Colorado
    Posts
    4,660

    Default

    Sounds like a good project & I think pictures are required..
    Current rides:
    89 LX 5.0, 5 -spd..the Lemon
    86 RS Capri 5.0 Auto...
    86 LX Colorado SSP 5.0 5-spd (Sadly Sold)
    85.5 SVO, Finally Got Boost
    83 RS Capri 5.0, 5-spd (another sadly sold)

  4. #4

    Default

    Name:  20180508_210132_resized_3.jpg
Views: 367
Size:  139.4 KB

    Mebbe this inspires you....also a former low mileage 6 car. Has full drivetrain, K, brakes, suspension from an 88 GT now. Just polishing up the wiring for first fire....

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    DENVER CO, the 303
    Posts
    2,813

    Default

    82 with 85/86 nose, lets see the interior thats the hard to find stuff!!!!

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 4eyedblind View Post
    Name:  20180508_210132_resized_3.jpg
Views: 367
Size:  139.4 KB

    Mebbe this inspires you....also a former low mileage 6 car. Has full drivetrain, K, brakes, suspension from an 88 GT now. Just polishing up the wiring for first fire....
    Oh yeah that’s what I’m thinking. Unassuming, understated, sleeper. VANILLA!

  7. #7

    Default

    Here’s the first available pic. Will try and get it bought this weekend.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #8

    Default

    Well went to take a second look at the 82 Vanilla coupe, and while in route owner calls and can’t find title, but he went and applied for a new one. Anyway, got there and crawled all over the car to get a better assessment of what I’m dealing with. Here’s the assessment: Surface rust, some pretty bad around front and back windows, but no rust through. A pinky finger hole in drivers rocker. Back quarters will need work where inner and outer lips meet at top of wheel openings. Front drivers frame rail has rust below master cylinder with a small hole above the sway bar mount. Fit and alignment of the body panels is excellent. Frame and sub frame straight with no damage. All trim is there. Grill in faded but good shape. Interior as stated in original post is all there and will require a bit of work.

    Now to the drive train, the car has not been started in 5 years, so I came armed with supplies to get it up and running to see if I could sell off the drive train later on. I checked the oil and nothing showed up on the dip stick, brake fluid level was ok, power steering fluid low, radiator half full, transmission fluid low.
    Topped off the fluids. Put a hot battery in it, and put 2 gallons of fresh gas in the tank which was empty, then poured a smidge in the carb. Had my better half turn the key on, fuel gauge came up to the empty line. I told her to crank it over and within a few revolutions the car fired, spit and belched and fell flat on its face. After about 5 episodes of pouring a smidge of gas in the carb and refiring it took off and stayed running. The lifters chattered for a few minutes then a low pitch knock developed, the knock didn’t continue to worsen but it was audible. Oil pressure was good, temp came up like it should. The boss moved the shifter back and forth between r & d, transmission fluid rechecked and topped off. Since amp meter didn’t seem to be working pulled negative battery cable and car didn’t die, so the alternator works. We then jumped in the car and took it for quick spin the tires had flat spotted so it bounce up and down for a bit, but steering was tight and effort light, brakes felt good, and the transmission shifted good.

    Took the car back, popped the hood and took my battery out it and we headed home undecided if we should tackle this car. With the mild to moderate issues of rust in a few areas, and the low pitched knock in the motor, and the need for a full pain job, and rejuvenation of the interior we’re left wondering if this is the car.

    I’m utterly torn, I love that the car has just the right options i.e. power steering, brakes, and a/c. No power windows, locks, or mirrors, no cruise, to me adds up to no excess wiring to deal with. I actually really like the Pastel Vanilla lower paint. The Medium Vanilla on top, on the other hand has to go. Not a lot of Mustangs around with this color combo. I also like the Vanilla interior, I love the 3 spoke steering wheel, and the instrument cluster of the older foxes.

    With all that said what do y’all think? Should we go for it, or wait for another car to come up? Here are a few pics from today.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #9

    Default



    The interior and trunk.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #10

    Default

    2875afc12b86c69.jpg[/IMG]

    The exterior and under the hood.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #11

    Default

    And a closer assessment of the problem areas. Pay no attention to the bald spot on my head it’s a solar panel!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #12
    FEP Super Member STANGMAN116's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    DENVER CO, the 303
    Posts
    2,813

    Default

    I think it depends on price, and how much of a project you want to take on.

  13. #13

    Default

    I believe you will find the rear holes of your 91 k member are slightly wider/narrower than your 82. You can easily notch them, I did that for mine. Just something to be aware of. Also you'll need to keep your 82 rack or buy/ make an adapter to use the newer rack. Go back and look where I started. You can do it if you want to
    Last edited by 2nd chance cobra; 10-20-2018 at 07:39 AM.

  14. #14

    Default

    If you want a big project this is a good candidate.
    I did way more body work on my ‘83 than this car needs, and swapped in an ‘89 drivetrain. It’s been a fun project but I could have bought a completed rust free ready to drive car for less than I have in it.
    But that wasn’t the point. I don’t golf, I play with cars. For me it’s all about the challenge of doing the work, searching out the parts and solving problems. If you like all that and are willing to have a long term project that you can’t get all your money out of then go for it!



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  15. #15

    Default

    Unless you are good at metalwork I would pass. The rust in the rocker alone would drive me away. Up here in Spokane WA you can find better candidates for the same or less. A complete interior is cheaper, quicker and easier the the simplest rust repair. I like the car though... The two tone is cool.

  16. #16

    Default

    Yup, same for me. Some people run, some people knit. I dont drink much I dont wear fancy clothes. The challenge of cars is the peace it brings me, because when it's done, its mine no one elses. Plus it keeps me from killing random strangers from the pent up anger of dealing with the stupidity of the general public.

  17. #17

    Default

    Much better option here. Shipping costs are worth starting with a rust free car.

    https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/c...710631888.html

  18. #18
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    1,953

    Default

    title status: missing
    Bill of sale only


    Mike

  19. #19

    Default

    Save the car! Here's more inspiration! Full factory 88 EFI....

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqJM...ature=youtu.be

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •