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  1. #1
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Default Clutch kit advice

    So I need to buy a new clutch and will probably go with a clutch kit from lmr or summit. Need some advice though on what to get. Trans is a t5 from a 84.5 gt and the motor is a 91 302 that is converted to carb. We also just picked up a running 85gt but it has some transmission problems so while we finish our 84 we thought we would throw a new clutch in the 85 then swap over to the 84 when motor is ready. Is that possible?

    Something like this?
    https://lmr.com/item/SPC-SF481BK/msu...utch-kit-82-93
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 10-10-2018 at 06:31 PM.

  2. #2
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Hopefully that made sense lol

  3. #3
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Nobody? Anyways from the research I've been doing I can use any clutch from 86+ as long as I get a 50oz 157 tooth fly wheel. Am I correct in this? I'm also thinking of going stage 1 to future proof but as of now car will be stock except intake, carb and exhaust. Will that be overkill?

    So next is what's a good brand? I've read good and bad things about pretty much all of them lol Zoom? Spec? Ram Hdx? I know that's a loaded question as everyone has their favorite, just want some opinions that all.

    Thanks

  4. #4
    FEP User bkm's Avatar
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    To run a 10.5 clutch, you need a 86-up flywheel. I've read that a 10.5 clutch will fit an older flywheel if the dowels are removed, but I have never done this so I can't confirm that.

    At your power level, get a valeo clutch kit from Autozone and save the money. I used to run mid 12's and many guys have run faster with one of those clutches. They're a King Cobra clutch in a different box.

  5. #5

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    The dowels are what take the load as the clutch is engaged ó donít just remove them unless you want bolts or threads in the flywheel to fail and leave you sitting!

    Autozone carries an inexpensive 22 lb 157 too 50 oz imbalance flywheel for an 86-93 that accepts a 10.5Ē 86-2001 pressureplate/clutch/bearing kit.

    At 22, the flywheel is nearly 9 lbs lighter than factory flywheel. The 10.5Ē clutch and pressureplate usually clears the bellhousing on the 83-85 10Ē clutch cars no problem. I've heard a few early 83ís have webbing that has to be trimmed slightly.

    The clutch suggested above will work good. Iíve had good luck with Zoom also. Iíd avoid Ram Clutches because they do not respond when there are issues and do things like not put a clutch disc in a clutch kit!

    Overall the setup should work great with your 84.

    These parts are cheaper, lighter, and stronger.
    Last edited by erratic50; 10-11-2018 at 10:36 AM.

  6. #6
    FEP User bkm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    The dowels are what take the load as the clutch is engaged — don’t just remove them unless you want bolts or threads in the flywheel to fail and leave you sitting!
    Totally agree. I know some people like to live dangerously though.

  7. #7
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. The valeo clutch from autozone is most likely out of the equation unless there is a canadian company that sells them. Concerning the zoom clutch, what model should I be looking at?

  8. #8

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    Rockauto has the Valeo Clutch and will ship to Canada.



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  9. #9
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AldeanFan View Post
    Rockauto has the Valeo Clutch and will ship to Canada.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks, ya I noticed that after I posted. Unfortunately it's out of stock as of now.

    Edit: checked for 1986 and they have 3 or 4 different valeo clutches. Any one in particular?
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 10-11-2018 at 04:23 PM.

  10. #10

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    My main concern in a "kit" would be the throwout and pilot bearings. Those kits usually are cheaper because they include Chinese bearings. To me, (and obviously everyone is different) that job is WAAYYYY too much labor to install chinese bearings. I'm not even really that scared of a Chinese clutch as much as those items. a freakin' squeaking throwout bearing is the most annoying sound on earth to me (insert Dumb & Dumber scene here). And to back up my statement. In June of this year I removed and reinstalled a transmission in a 5.0 and only replaced the noisy throwout bearing. Put the entire thing back together without touching anything else.
    Do they have NAPA up there? I have real good luck with their drivetrain parts. I think theirs are Ram though I've never had an issue where I needed to call them for support anyway. There is no warranty on any clutch from any manufacturer so I'm not sure why I would be calling RAM anyway. If it was in the wrong box or wrong or missing parts, I'm calling whoever I bought it from and whoever I gave my money to, not Ram.
    I am going to edit this and say I agree that Valeo is good stuff. OEM Ford used to be and may still be Valeo. Autozone, Advance Auto, LMR, Summit, NAPA etc. none of them manufacture anything. They are ALL resellers of parts made elsewhere. I would not strictly focus on Autozone etc.
    Last edited by homer302; 10-11-2018 at 06:29 PM.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sask84gt View Post
    Thanks, ya I noticed that after I posted. Unfortunately it's out of stock as of now.

    Edit: checked for 1986 and they have 3 or 4 different valeo clutches. Any one in particular?
    I havenít bought a valeo clutch but my FFR has a LUK and itís been great.
    It was recommended by the shop that built the transmission.


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  12. #12
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Ok, doing some reading and it seems like the valeo clutches are basically the king cobra clutch that ford had? I guess valeo made the king cobra ones? Just trying to figure out which ones. I've narrowed it down to part numbers 62672005 which is a performance one, 52672001 and 52672006. Anybody know which one was the king cobra clutch? Think I'm leaning toward valeo. Seem to have decent reviews and are pretty well priced.
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 10-11-2018 at 07:06 PM.

  13. #13
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Valeo did make the King Cobra Clutch for Ford. I am not sure what the correct part number is anymore, but I did install one a few years back and remember Valeo was stamped on the pressure plate.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
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    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
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    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
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  14. #14
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Valeo did make the King Cobra Clutch for Ford. I am not sure what the correct part number is anymore, but I did install one a few years back and remember Valeo was stamped on the pressure plate.
    Ok, ya I'm getting mixed signals. Is every valeo clutch a king cobra or only certain models. Seems different dealers are listing different part numbers as king cobra clutches lol dont know what to believe

  15. #15

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    The least expensive Zoom kit from summit is nice

    10000% agree on bearings. If it’s not a quality piece, toss it! It’s not just squeak — some throwout bearings chew bearing retainers to hell because of poor tolerances and completely fail or cause a clutch to fail very early due to binding

    National is what I always use


    my comment on Ram.... ordered a kit from Ram kit via their Amazon store. Got a “kit” consisting of a ****ty throwout bearing and a pressure plate — NO clutch. Called them, sat on hold forever. Emailed, no reply. Total contacts made — 14. I never did get any satisfaction. The jackass I finally got on the line about 2 weeks after I ran into problems and had to try to source a performance clutch in Omaha on a Sunday did accuse me of being dishonest about what was in the box though. Yea— you know me— nothing better to do than make **** up! Time is money friends! Those Assholes and every part they ever make can rot. That’s how I feel about it.

  16. #16
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    The least expensive Zoom kit from summit is nice

    10000% agree on bearings. If itís not a quality piece, toss it! Itís not just squeak ó some throwout bearings chew bearing retainers to hell because of poor tolerances and completely fail or cause a clutch to fail very early due to binding

    National is what I always use


    my comment on Ram.... ordered a kit from Ram kit via their Amazon store. Got a ďkitĒ consisting of a ****ty throwout bearing and a pressure plate ó NO clutch. Called them, sat on hold forever. Emailed, no reply. Total contacts made ó 14. I never did get any satisfaction. The jackass I finally got on the line about 2 weeks after I ran into problems and had to try to source a performance clutch in Omaha on a Sunday did accuse me of being dishonest about what was in the box though. Yeaó you know meó nothing better to do than make **** up! Time is money friends! Those Assholes and every part they ever make can rot. Thatís how I feel about it.
    Thanks, that's enough info for me to stay away from them. Also can you link me to that zoom clutch? I think so far for with all the research and stuff I've looked at clutches are by far the most confusing. Lol

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post

    National is what I always use
    Yep!

  18. #18

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    I'm running a ZOOM clutch in mine. It is working great. I should have upgraded to the 22lb flywheel mentioned above, but as per usual, I was broke and so was my car. So I had the stock flywheel re-surfaced and put it all back together. It operates smooth holds good, I have had no issues with the clutch since I put this one in. I would also recommend ZOOM.

    I would link the one I got from Summit, but I can't seem to find it in my order history....
    When you have kids, you will find yourself saying things you'd never thought would ever need to be said. Ever. The other thing you will notice, is how often you will say them.....

  19. #19

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    pretty sure this is the kit we put in my son's 86GT convertible. At the same time we did the work we also put in a Ford Racing T5Z that was upgraded with an Astro Performance one piece steel bearing retainer. We also run a Maximum Motorsports clutch quadrant/cable kit and a 22 lb flywheel from Autozone and a Hurst Competition Plus shifter. Very happy with the results.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/z.../model/mustang

    I was not impressed with the throwout bearing and followed those instructions early.... and threw it out. We put in a National bearing.

  20. #20
    FEP Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    What's the clutch pedal like on those? Dont want a heavy stiff pedal especially since I'm teaching a 17 year old how to drive stick lol

  21. #21

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    Use a Ford cable. The aftermarket one I had felt like twice the effort.

  22. #22
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sask84gt View Post
    Ok, ya I'm getting mixed signals. Is every valeo clutch a king cobra or only certain models. Seems different dealers are listing different part numbers as king cobra clutches lol dont know what to believe
    Unfortunately I am not sure what the correct part number would be. I run Spec Clutches exclusively now, so haven't put a Valeo or anything else into one of my cars in years!

    Quote Originally Posted by Sask84gt View Post
    What's the clutch pedal like on those? Dont want a heavy stiff pedal especially since I'm teaching a 17 year old how to drive stick lol
    As Hammer Down mentioned Definitely go with a Ford Cable. DON'T buy the FRPP cable as it is cheap Chinese CRAP. You have to buy an OEM FORD or else buy this one from Maximum Motorsports. https://www.maximummotorsports.com/M...2-04-P897.aspx

    I also highly recommend the complete kit as that is what I install into all my Foxes: https://www.maximummotorsports.com/C...kage-P385.aspx

    Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  23. #23
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
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    Absolutely go with the MM clutch cable. It's the best you can get.
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  24. #24

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    I have never used a MM cable but I can 100% testify to the quality of every single part of theirs I have ever seen. They are still in the biz for a reason. I would not hesitate using a cable of theirs. I always have just used FORD ones in the past but I wouldn't think twice. They make stuff that actually FITS!!!!!

  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sask84gt View Post
    What's the clutch pedal like on those? Dont want a heavy stiff pedal especially since I'm teaching a 17 year old how to drive stick lol
    With a good cable like the MM unit Trey mentioned and a properly setup release mechanism they feel GREAT. Stock or slightly less effort. With an adjustable quadrant kit you can put the pedal where-ever you want it when it comes to release too.

    One often overlooked tip.... many of the replacement flywheels -- including the Duralast one mentioned above -- set the flywheel back just slightly from the bellhousing compared to where it was from the factory. Its not a huge deal at all, but if you install one of them or you resurface the flywheel you may want/need a spacer between the flywheel and the crank to get your release fork geometry where it should be.

    Throwout bearing vary in height a bit too which is another big factor.

    The hidden factor in all of this is the condition of the thrust bearing. If that is getting worn the flywheel will get pushed forward when you try to release the clutch. If its bad to the point it needs replaced, you'll know. Usually they will knock pretty severely before anything bad happens.

    They do make adjustable pivot pin/bolts now. I've heard they are the bomb. Honestly I have never used one.

    I got started with flywheel spacers years ago and have lots of them around my garage. The factory flywheel on my 1/2 million mile rustbucket had 13 resurface jobs done to it-- that I know of. By the last time it went in, it was spaced out far enough that the flywheel just barely sits on the hub on the crank because the rest of it was occupied by spacers. LOL

    So a little bit of education on which is better and why. IMO the adjustable pin/bolt is better provided it doesn't move on you once its set.

    The down side to a flywheel spacer is that they set the flywheel out where the starter doesn't engage as well as it did before. Knock on wood I've never had a starter head fail on a ford, but I have had mine make some pretty nasty noises at me before. That last job was probably one too many for my flywheel but it made it through a regular clutch service interval for what its worth.

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