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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Default Installing front coils

    Just so I'm clear. I have to unbolt the spindle from the control arm to change the front coil springs, right? Do I absolutely need the tool from Maximum Motorsports?
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  2. #2

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    That or the strut and the outer tie rod. Both is even better. You will need the room and it is not all that hard to do.
    That tool would make it much easier. I rented the standard compressor from the store for free and did it the hard way.
    You will need a strong helper as compressing the spring is not that easy. Once in, you need to take apart the compressor
    by the jaw bolts which are not exactly easy to get to once on the car. But it saves lots of money if you are poor like me.
    Also, when removing the spring I wrapped a chain through it and bolted it together so it could not fly out and kill anyone.
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    Last edited by RED 78'; 10-06-2018 at 10:10 PM.
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  3. #3
    FEP Power Member gmatt's Avatar
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    Default

    The tool will help. The spring has to bend when you install it and that makes it very difficult to keep it in the pocket of the control arm. It can be done without it, but you'll likely invent some new swear words. The spring compressor is also essential.

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member gmatt's Avatar
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    Default

    Also, take some precautions when installing/removing coil springs. I've put a strap through the coils to keep it from flying. They are under a LOT of pressure and will hurt you.

  5. #5

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    Get the tool. I've had to do this job several times, and it's my least favorite thing to do ... on a car... in the world.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Default

    MM tool only works on lowering springs

    the tool Ford used is available

    I hooked my spring through the bottom hole in the A arm with a balljoint press plate. Cranked it down then put the A arm into place and started the bolts. Put in the strut bolts and tightened them up. Loosened up the compressor and make sure the spring seats properly.

    Put the A arm on a jack at the balljoint and torque the A arm bolts when the spring is getting the entire load.

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default

    Recently did a rear LCA. Spring must be removed.
    Have that exact spring compressor. Works well.
    Did the ft springs with it too doing the lcas.

    Trick is to remove the threaded rod before inserting the hooks into the spring.
    Removing the rod allows the hooks to fold tight and clear the coils when moving into position.
    Almost impossible to position hooks with threaded rod installed or even get the tool inside the spring.

    Remove both hooked pivot assys from threaded rod.
    Make sure hook assy with threads is on top. It goes in first.
    Fish one hook assy at a time sideways up thru the spring pocket hole.
    Once hook assy is inside the spring, tilt, fold and hold hooks together.
    Hold top assy hooks together facing upward.
    Move into position and hang the hooks onto the upper coils like in pic.

    The hook pivot with no threads goes on bottom, upside down.

    Poke the threaded rod, nut side down, thru the spring pocket hole.
    Keep going, thru the bottom hook pivot, up to the top one and hand thread rod it into it.
    Wiggle the bottom hooks into coils. Snug up and adjust hooks.
    Tighten spring compressor nut with tool of choice.
    Reverse procedure to remove tool.

    Use air impact gun to crank the spring compressor nut. Helps make the job easy.
    Lube the upper end of threaded rod and top of nut washer for less friction.

    Stack of grade 8 washers, or large nuts, can be used as spacers so rod end will not hit rear shock mount upper pocket.
    Stack spacers between lower hook pivot assy and nut. This lowers the rod for clearance at the top if too long for job.
    Whatever is used for spacers should have a larger id than the rod, so rod turns freely inside spacers.

    Using a backup safety item on compressed springs before removing from position is ok.
    Being inside spring, above tool really won't let go if everything is treated with respect.
    Move it out of the way to a safe spot until ready to reinstall.
    Compressor tools that hang on the outside of the spring are scary.

    Shop manual shows a spring compressor that uses plates instead of hooks to compress the coils.
    Auto parts chains rent similar.
    Last edited by gr79; 10-07-2018 at 01:48 PM.

  8. #8

    Default

    Yeah, the plate type compressor helps. Mine has plate on one end, hooks on the other. I also end up cutting the threaded rod pretty often (I've gone through SEVERAL spring compressors--spend the money now and get a good one, otherwise you'll be spending more later) because the front spring has to curve to go in, like others have said, and the compressor just won't do it's job and fit in the spring pocket while sticking out the bottom. Then you have to loosen it with an open end wrench... very slowly... a little bit at a time. Is it becoming clear why I hate doing this so much?

    Also, the Ford tool sounds like a lifesaver, but be prepared, it's VERY expensive.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  9. #9
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    Just so I'm clear. I have to unbolt the spindle from the control arm to change the front coil springs, right? Do I absolutely need the tool from Maximum Motorsports?
    The tool does help. I believe you are doing lowering springs if IIRC. That makes things a bit easier. You may or may not need a spring compressor due to the lowering springs. If installing stock springs there is no way to do it without the spring compressor.
    ​Trey

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  10. #10
    FEP Power Member gmatt's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    The tool does help. I believe you are doing lowering springs if IIRC. That makes things a bit easier. You may or may not need a spring compressor due to the lowering springs. If installing stock springs there is no way to do it without the spring compressor.
    My experience was that without using the compressor, the spring would not compress far enough to get any bolts in. Even with the spring properly seated, it would go just so far lifting with the jack, then the whole car would raise up.

  11. #11

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    There are a number of factors.
    So, you'll get/read a lot of different answers. Of course, some won't apply to you.
    That is especially true with the final install height, and if the springs would even work on the car.

    Imho, B-springs with an 94-98 FCA on a 4-eye with the M2300K kit, *I* don't believe it for a second! Saying "I did it, but I have a different setup now" also does not cut it. Show me the pictures, the spring tag, the tires, etc. I tried. My tires rubbed on the plastic liners.

    Because of the lowered height, I went back to the FRPP Fox FCAs. I still have those FRPP sn95 FCAs somewhere buried in my basement.


    I used the OTC 7045B tool:
    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...C-spring-tool/

    My car and the specs:
    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...Mach1_springs/

    Fwiw, installing my spring setup required that the lower bolts were off.
    Maybe, if I had a car lift and tranny/suspension jack, then I might have been able to put in my setup with the lower FCA bolts installed.

    Bigger pictures on the links in the web page I mentioned above.







    Good Luck!

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