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  1. #1

    Default Tips for lubricating an emergency brake

    Mine is very difficult to move and doesn't release after engaging unless you pull the rear brakes and yank on the cable. Any suggestions?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member
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    Default

    Replace the cable(s).

    Since you are in NY, if they are sticky now, they will only get worse with rust. I would not consider it that bad of a job, get need to crawl under the car a bit. Much easier than a heater core.
    Last edited by KevinK; 10-05-2018 at 08:20 AM.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
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    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  3. #3

    Default

    That doesn't seem like an easy job... Is it?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  4. #4
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
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    14,206

    Default

    You can try lubricating the cables themselves and see if that helps. Otherwise as mentioned replacement may be the better option.

    The job is not "easy", but not a terrible one either. Getting the cable removed from the backing plate and shoes is generally the biggest pain. A 1/2" closed end wrench is the best and quickest way to release the clips holding the cables into the bracket on the body. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  5. #5

    Default

    Are those 'brackets' the odd little crowns I see where the cables enter the body? I have that second fuel pump right where the passenger side enters the body too. I assume one of the 'ends' of the cables are detachable and you just pull it through? Pushing through the new cable is not a pain?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
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    5,141

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    Pretty sure the cable itself cannot be pulled out. The ends are crimped or something.
    Not that hard to replace assy. As mentioned, the rear drum end is the most time consuming.
    Looks harder than it is. Think i remember the backing plate clip was the hardest part.
    And of course the fun part of fiddling with drum brake parts.

    Disconnecting it will determine if the cable or other parts are binding up.
    Thing is, although less costly, lubing cable well- if even possible- would be as much work as replacing it.

    Parking brake is a safety item. Best if repaired correctly and used.

    If not used regularly, gets 'rusty'. Most just park in gear, park, or use a curb.
    And after learning about curb parking on San Fran hills with wheels turned.
    Had mine roll away unattended several times. Once, the Ranger rolled into the street. Think i learned? No.
    Not using it, afraid to use it now concerned it will stick and lock up the brake shoes.
    Kind of a dumb reasoning on my part. What if i really needed it?

    If not used when parking, does help to test from time to time in a open parking lot, just to see how well it works.
    No it wont lock brakes, spin the car out or stall it unless ratcheted on. Is a gradual slowdown, depending on adjustment at lever.
    Keep button pushed down during test so pb is free to control up and down by hand.

  7. #7

    Default

    Yeah, just ordered new cables. Going to have the shop do it, my time is worth more than that. The drums are all fresh rebuild. It is an auto, so I never used it and this is my reward.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  8. #8
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    Are those 'brackets' the odd little crowns I see where the cables enter the body? I have that second fuel pump right where the passenger side enters the body too. I assume one of the 'ends' of the cables are detachable and you just pull it through? Pushing through the new cable is not a pain?
    Yes, the little "crowns" are the clips that hold the E brake housing in place and the cable is able to operate inside the housing. Those are the ones I recommend the 1/2" box end wrench for removal. Once the cables are disconnected from the E brake handle and the drums, they are fairly simple to remove. As others have mentioned the drums are the largest amount of work.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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