Camshaft opinions needed

[Sask84gt]

Hey guys, so in 2 weeks we are going to start removing efi from my 91 302 and installing new dizzy along with new edelbrock performer intake with carb to follow( have not decided which way to go yet).
My son texted me today saying we should do a cam swap and install a ford performance f303 cam. He was all "dad its easy and its only like 200 bucks" lol I know that it's much more involved than that and that it will cost more and can also lead to replacing other things. Can someone give me advice on what else is all needed to do this and if that cam is a good choice for a mild build? If it's fairly straightforward without a lot of high level mechanic stuff then I might consider it.

Thanks
Brad

[mmb617]

This is just my opinion but if I wasn't going to change the heads from stock I wouldn't bother changing the cam. Waste of time and money.

[Sask84gt]

This is just my opinion but if I wasn't going to change the heads from stock I wouldn't bother changing the cam. Waste of time and money.

Well we will be eventually putting new heads on it just not right away. Figured if it was easy enough, do it now while motor is out then put new heads on later.

[Adriver]

You’ll need stiffer valve springs for the F cam. If you are running stock heads and a performer intake you might be better off just putting 1.7 rockers on the stock cam. The F cam is better suited to different/modified heads and an intake that has an rpm range up to 6500, like a performer rpm or a stealth.


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[mmb617]

I understand wanting to do it in the most efficient manner. If all you are doing now is an intake swap you won't need to pull the heads. But the cam swap will require the heads to be pulled which is why I think it would make sense to do the heads and cam at the same time.

Another consideration is that what heads you chose has an effect on what cam works best, so you might find that the optimal cam for your new setup is not a good choice at all with the heads you have now. Another reason I'd wait and do heads and cam together.

As easy as it is to pull the motor on these cars I'd just plan on pulling it out again when I was ready to do the heads and cam. Sure you can do that swap with the motor in the car but I've always felt it is worth pulling it to have the motor on a stand instead of leaning over the fenders trying to work.

[Walking-Tall]

My youngest brother has the F cam, GT-40P heads, factory headers, all off road and magnaflow exhaust, stealth dual plane intake, and 750 Holley vacuum secondary, and the ride I had in it... that little AOD '83 'vert certainly hauls a$$, right off the mark with crispy throttle response and bottom end and RIPS up past 6000rpm.

The 600 vacuum secondary we discussed within PM is now gone... there are others here, but in general, whichever way you decide to go, my carburetor build offer when you're ready still stands.

[Sask84gt]

You’ll need stiffer valve springs for the F cam. If you are running stock heads and a performer intake you might be better off just putting 1.7 rockers on the stock cam. The F cam is better suited to different/modified heads and an intake that has an rpm range up to 6500, like a performer rpm or a stealth.


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We are installing the performer rpm. Forgot that in the original post.

[Sask84gt]

Thanks for all the opinion guys. I think we are just going to install the new intake, a good carb,some shorty headers, off road h pipe and exhaust and be done with it for awhile. Save the cam for when we put new heads on. Should still have some pep

[Adriver]

For sure, that will certainly wake it up.


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