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  1. #1

    Default 1979 Mustang Roller Motor Swap

    Looking to the experienced folks here to identify the considerations I need to account for with my project. I am going to swap the stock 302 non-roller block for a roller block, GT40p headed motor. The car is a 4 speed so most likely will swap in a T5 at the same time. My goal is to keep as much of the original look of the 79 motor as I can. I want to keep the factory front accessory drive (has AC) and valve covers. Will these bolt to the roller block and P heads? Would like to keep the factory clutch pedal and cable (single adjustable at the fork end). What else do i need to consider to pull this off? As a side note, all parts will be repainted/coated in factory 79 colors
    Last edited by saleen428; 09-24-2018 at 08:50 PM.

  2. #2
    FEP Member bkm's Avatar
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    Everything is pretty much a direct swap, but there are a few things that need to be addressed. The roller cam requires a hardened steel distributor gear and the P heads have straight spark plugs and might not work with oem manifolds? You also have to use your timing cover and oil pan. The explorer stuff is different.

  3. #3
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I did a 4cyl to 5.0 roller / 5 Speed swap on my 79 PC.

    As stated above most of the parts are a direct swap/bolt in. If you have the distributor from the roller motor, you can swap the gear to your original distributor. The spark plugs/exhaust manifolds may be an issue, I would mock up on the stand to verify.

    You can swap to the 5 speed and keep your clutch pedal/cable combo, but you will have to use the 5 speed bellhousing if using the T5. Your existing bellhousing can be used with a Tremec 3550, TKO, etc. if you go that route.

    Depending on the year model roller motor, you may need the fuel pump eccentric from an '85 style roller motor if keeping the stock fuel pump. Some roller motors have the fuel pump eccentric and some do not in my experience. Probably something I am missing, but overall should be an easy swap. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

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  4. #4

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    Thanks for the responses so far. So will the 79 timing cover, water pump, accessory drive with AC all mount to a roller block with gt40p heads?


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  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by saleen428 View Post
    Thanks for the responses so far. So will the 79 timing cover, water pump, accessory drive with AC all mount to a roller block with gt40p heads?


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    Yes, everything should swap over.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  6. #6
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    You will want a nice 4 bbl intake , and Holley carb .
    An 85 Mustang distributor is a direct fit .
    Has the correct gear , and electronics .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  7. #7
    FEP Member bkm's Avatar
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    You're going to need a 50oz flywheel and balancer as well. 82-up 302's were 50oz imbalance vs the 28oz of your 79. Grab a 86-up 157 tooth flywheel so you can use the 10.5 clutch and from what I've read, a new Duralast flywheel from auto zone is 8lbs lighter than factory flywheels.

  8. #8

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    This is great info and I can now start putting my list together. As for the distributor, can I use my 79 and just swap the gear?



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  9. #9

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    Pretty sure the gears from the later model 86+ TFI distributors with the roller cams are different ID than the earlier 79-85 distributors. I believe you can get a replacement steel gear for the earlier model or just buy an 85 mustang distributor with the steel gear already installed and will plug directly into the duraspark system.

  10. #10
    FEP Member bkm's Avatar
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    A 85 GT 5spd distributor will give you the best timing curve too. Rock Auto usually has the best price on them and most won't require a core.

  11. #11

    Default 1979 Mustang Roller Motor Swap

    Quote Originally Posted by bkm View Post
    You're going to need a 50oz flywheel and balancer as well. 82-up 302's were 50oz imbalance vs the 28oz of your 79. Grab a 86-up 157 tooth flywheel so you can use the 10.5 clutch and from what I've read, a new Duralast flywheel from auto zone is 8lbs lighter than factory flywheels.
    Do you know who manufactures the Duralast flywheel? 8lb reduction is a lot!! I don’t want an inferior part


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    Last edited by saleen428; 09-29-2018 at 09:21 AM.

  12. #12
    FEP Member bkm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by saleen428 View Post
    Do you know who manufactures the Duralast flywheel? 8lb reduction is a lot!! I don’t want an inferior part


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    It's from Autozone, so I assume China.

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I have one in my 86GT that I constantly abuse. It has a heavy duty clutch kit Autozone had on the shelf that’s rated to 350 lbs of torque which honestly probably isn’t enough. My 450 lb RAM kit showed up without a disc and they wouldn’t do anything about it. Never buying from them again! Spec, Centerforce, or Zoom these days.

    2.95 T5Z low gear and 2.73 rear gear requires one hell of a lot of clutching to keep from bogging the motor or spinning the tires coming out of the hole but I’m used to it and have launched this car so many times. The Typhoon intake and other parts lets it rev past 6000. Good for 0-60 pulls in first, full powershift to 2nd, run it up to 90 and throw third, etc. loads of fun!

    The clutch doesn’t chatter, the starter engages properly, etc. it fitgood and it’s a nice piece. The only trouble I had was some idiot lost the pressureplate locator pins and this flywheel was the last one. Had to track down pins on a Sunday afternoon — I was ticked!

    My son has one in his 86GT convertible also. We swapped from the Stock 1352-169 T5 over to a T5Z as we swapped out the 30lb flywheel for the 22. We went from a worn out king cobra clutch over to a Zoom and dropped almost 3 lbs there also. The car spends the exact same amount of time in first as it did before the swap but it’s going 10 mph faster on the 1-2 with 2.95 than it was with 3.35. Very noticeable upgrade. More-so than an AL driveshaft even

    Everything on his car is great after the swap. The change is most noticeable in 3rd gear imo
    Last edited by erratic50; 10-01-2018 at 01:08 AM.

  14. #14

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    Did a tranny swap and clutch replacement in my 01 Bullitt yesterday. Used a factory replacement Valeo clutch kit which is the same as the original Ford part manufacturer. The disc is stamped made in Korea! The quality is there and this thing feels smooth as butter and is no longer a left leg weight press


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  15. #15
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by saleen428 View Post
    Did a tranny swap and clutch replacement in my 01 Bullitt yesterday. Used a factory replacement Valeo clutch kit which is the same as the original Ford part manufacturer. The disc is stamped made in Korea! The quality is there and this thing feels smooth as butter and is no longer a left leg weight press


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    good to know for stock or near stock rides.

    Stage 2+ is going into my 85 build due to power level

  16. #16
    FEP Member bkm's Avatar
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    I've never liked anything besides a King Cobra type clutch with a T5. Grippy clutches are usually a T5's death nail, but will live quite a long time with a less aggressive clutch. A member here has a YouTube channel, 50tussin, and uses slicks, 4.56 gears, and a T5 with almost all of his cars and they all pretty much use the stock/king cobra clutch.

    In my opinion, there needs to be a fusible link between the engine and a T5 to make it live. Along with a few small internal mods.

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Yea, Gforce kit and a few mods in my T5 in my 85.

    The flywheel in my 86GT mates to a HD clutch kit Autozone carried — looks exactly like the king cobra I’ve ran before.

    Clutch should be sized to power level plus 25-30% and no more generally.

    Good but sane Upper and lower control arms, u joints, rear diff, trans mount, motor mounts, etc, should all be spot on. Absolutely ZERO wheel hop. Adjust tire pressures to solve any there. Then T5 will live.

    There are a few 10 second cars out there with T5Z builds but everything is spot on....

    The lighter the flywheel the less inertia pounds the T5 on each shift. Rotating mass matters, big

    Ive killed plenty of T5’s and clutches. Probably more than my share.... so just sayin.

  18. #18
    FEP Member bkm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Yea, Gforce kit and a few mods in my T5 in my 85.

    The flywheel in my 86GT mates to a HD clutch kit Autozone carried — looks exactly like the king cobra I’ve ran before.

    Clutch should be sized to power level plus 25-30% and no more generally.

    Good but sane Upper and lower control arms, u joints, rear diff, trans mount, motor mounts, etc, should all be spot on. Absolutely ZERO wheel hop. Adjust tire pressures to solve any there. Then T5 will live.

    There are a few 10 second cars out there with T5Z builds but everything is spot on....

    The lighter the flywheel the less inertia pounds the T5 on each shift. Rotating mass matters, big

    Ive killed plenty of T5’s and clutches. Probably more than my share.... so just sayin.
    I hear you. I had to learn the hard way with the Super Duper stage bazillion mega clutches and horrible suspension before I learned what it took to make one live.

  19. #19
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkm View Post
    I hear you. I had to learn the hard way with the Super Duper stage bazillion mega clutches and horrible suspension before I learned what it took to make one live.
    Me too!!
    -- James

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    My four eyed foxes:
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    Also in the stable - my son’s car. 1986 Mustang GT Convertible. Black/Black/Black conversion. 93 leather. VM1 ECU. T5Z

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  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Yea, Gforce kit and a few mods in my T5 in my 85.

    The flywheel in my 86GT mates to a HD clutch kit Autozone carried — looks exactly like the king cobra I’ve ran before.

    Clutch should be sized to power level plus 25-30% and no more generally.

    Good but sane Upper and lower control arms, u joints, rear diff, trans mount, motor mounts, etc, should all be spot on. Absolutely ZERO wheel hop. Adjust tire pressures to solve any there. Then T5 will live.

    There are a few 10 second cars out there with T5Z builds but everything is spot on....

    The lighter the flywheel the less inertia pounds the T5 on each shift. Rotating mass matters, big

    Ive killed plenty of T5’s and clutches. Probably more than my share.... so just sayin.
    Do you have a part number of the Duralast flywheel and clutch kit that is similar to the King Cobra? Going to do some cross referencing; they might be the same manufacturer that Ford uses or not.


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  21. #21
    FEP Member bkm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by saleen428 View Post
    Do you have a part number of the Duralast flywheel and clutch kit that is similar to the King Cobra? Going to do some cross referencing; they might be the same manufacturer that Ford uses or not.


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    The Brute Power flywheel is listed at 21 lbs and I think the oem wheel is 30. They have a few Valeo clutch kits listed from $97 up to $239. I would think their "High Clamp Low Pedal Effort" kit is probably the King Cobra. My favorite setup was Ram's diaphragm pressure plate and a stock/king cobra disc. It gave just enough slip out of the hole and during the upshift, but had great clamping pressure at the top of the rpm range. Now this was on a 300-350 whp car, not anything high horse power.

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