Close



Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1

    Default How hot do spindles get / Will regular paint/primer work?

    I just finished painting my spindles and am hoping I don't have to undo/redo everything.

    I steel brushed them, then covered with Rustoleum Rust Reformer. Then, coated with a acrylic enamel. I believe the can said it can be used up to 200 degrees.

    Tonight, I was reading a forum where someone said to use high temp paint or POR15.

    The spindles look great and took a lot of time to get where they are. Please tell me I don't need to redo!

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    11,982

    Default

    I have painted spindles with regular ole' rattle can paint many times and never had any issues. I wouldn't worry about it. As long as your prep was good and the paint was applied correctly you should be safe.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I have painted spindles with regular ole' rattle can paint many times and never had any issues. I wouldn't worry about it. As long as your prep was good and the paint was applied correctly you should be safe.
    That is music to my ears. Thanks for weighing in!

    i also noticed some images of new spindles appear to have bare metal on contact points. I basically painted everything but the spindle shaft thinking I could sand later if needed. Thinking it through, it seems like the only areas that would need to be bare metal would be inside the holes where the tie rod and control arms bolts need to move. Does that sound right to you or do you think more needs to be sanded similar to this photo? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...yABEgJ0pPD_BwE

  4. #4

    Default

    I would clean the paint out of the inside of the holes using a home made walnut shell or soda blaster. The rest of it doesnít much matter.

    one place where you can run into trouble on spindles is not getting enough pressure on the inside of the bearing carrier to keep it from spinning rather than the bearing on the race itself.

    Not all bearings are created equally. The Motorcraft and the National bearings I measured were both 0.050 - 0.070 tighter on the spindle than the mcparts store bearings from various sources. this is critical if you donít want them to spin. Your other option is to basically make some areas that stand up on the spindle - effectively the same idea as nurralIing I guess.

    The spindles that were on my 1986GT were way past worn out and Iíve had bearings take off spinning before so this is the voice of experience. If you have a carrier take off spinning and do t catch it your king pin will overheat and the wheel will come off so itís no laughing matter.

    do as good of a job as you can packing the bearings but keep the inside of the carrier and the spindle clean as you can. Grease will get in there in spots as it heat cycles but donít make you be the source.

    The last few bearing jobs I did on my old spindles I had to polish down the back of the bearing carrier that faces the spindle seal. That brought to tapers to a resting location down a few thousandths and kept them from turning. Silicon carbide sandpaper on a piece of glass is the easierst way Iíve found to do that modification

    Worked for me.....

  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    11,982

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MN_Stang View Post
    That is music to my ears. Thanks for weighing in!

    i also noticed some images of new spindles appear to have bare metal on contact points. I basically painted everything but the spindle shaft thinking I could sand later if needed. Thinking it through, it seems like the only areas that would need to be bare metal would be inside the holes where the tie rod and control arms bolts need to move. Does that sound right to you or do you think more needs to be sanded similar to this photo? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...yABEgJ0pPD_BwE
    I would not paint inside the tie rod holes, the spindle bolt holes, brake caliper mounts, nor the actual spindle snout. Otherwise you should be just fine.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •