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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default Various codes coming up during scan

    My 84 LX 5.0 with a CFM setup is not a daily driver but it actually ram much better when I did drive it every day.

    last winter it sat in my garage from November till April of this past Spring. The idle seemed off, running high RPMs when I first took it out so I reset the curb idle as per Ford Racing sheets instructions. The car only gets taken out every other week or so as I had time to use it. In the summer months I noticed the idle was back to racing again. I reset it again yesterday and got it to run at 1000 rpms in park and 550 in drive but it still idle hunts in park. I disconnected the neg bat terminal to clear the ECM as well.

    Today i pulled codes and compared to last year when the car was pulling three 11's on a code read my results now are disappointing to say the least. I cant imagine why it turns to crap from just sitting.

    I ran the test twice and got same results.

    KOEO - 11
    CM - 18,22,42
    KOER - 21


    I think the KOER -21 was a false code since the car may not have been at 195 degrees when I ran the test. This year also for some reason my car struggles to get to operating temp. Seems to run cooler than it should in the heat of summer. the only exception is if I'm in stop and go traffic for a long time, then the gauge runs to almost pegged. Otherwise it barely climbs off the coldest setting.

    The CM codes are what concern me. I have changed the 22k ohm resister more than once and it still reads 22k ohms. So I could never figure out why the code 18 comes and goes. That one has showed up infrequently the past few years. Code 22 is MAP out of range, but only in CM not in KOEO? I dont get it. I have an extra I can try to swap. Code 42 is pointing to a rich condition in CM not KOER so that concerns me too. I've been to hell and back with my O2 sensor set up and I am 100% sure my ground is good, behind the head where its supposed to be and my voltage wire is clean, unbroken and still connected to the O2.

    So what can I do? The car seems to never warm up fully and find its correct rpm. Its been running choppy at idle.

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default

    Well I just swapped my MAP with a Motorcraft NOS DY-503. The exact part number is E6FZ-9F479-A and now I get code 22 in KOEO as well. I'm gonna leave the NOS part in a day or so and keep rechecking. If it stays the same I'll have to put the old one back in.

    I still get code 21 in KOER but I was only able to get the operating temp up to 185. It just wont go any higher. Its got a Motorcraft 195 degree thermostat in it

  3. #3

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    Code 21 means that the temp sender needs replaced. It doesnt mean it wasn't warm enough. Pretty much the map sensor and temp sensor control fuel, so I would start there.

    18 is a spout out if its in continuous memory. If its from while its running, its a loss of spark, probably ignition module or pip.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    Code 21 means that the temp sender needs replaced. It doesnt mean it wasn't warm enough. Pretty much the map sensor and temp sensor control fuel, so I would start there.

    18 is a spout out if its in continuous memory. If its from while its running, its a loss of spark, probably ignition module or pip.
    I just ran a scan after a half hour long drive. Code 21 is gone and I verified the thermo housing was at 190 degrees this time.

    No codes in CM but the code 22 still in KOEO with a brand new MAP sensor. im gonna put the old one back on and see how it looks tomorow.

  5. #5

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    My engine runs super cool (to me) at 185, always now, some times a hair cooler coasting down a hill. It used to be much hotter before I cleaned house with all the intake manifold sensors, and a new PIP in the distributor. I fixed that exact same idle issue with a new fan clutch from Amazon, super cheap and made in the USA. That replaced a new "performance" model from cjpony that was bad out of the box. All temps taken with a Lazer temp gauge...
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  6. #6

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    This is with a stock radiator, etc. I was getting lean and rich codes occasionally but I have an afr gauge and the car runs so well now I don't even care if it is throwing those codes.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  7. #7

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    I will say that when I start the car (warm) the idle jumps up to 1k for a minute or so (800 in drive), but always comes down to 550 when the computer gets its stuff together.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  8. #8

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    That's normal for the first 15-30 seconds.

    The code for map sensor is usually a bad vacuum like. I have a 195° thermostat in my car with stock everything. It gets up to temp fine at idle.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  9. #9

    Default

    I have the motorcraft 195 but I am sure it opens early. The engine is also just nice and cool, not much thermal momentum if you know what I mean. When I park it after driving, it cools down very fast (which was absolutely not the case when I was fighting those sensors). The 'engine' used to get so hot it was hard to remove the air cleaner housing without gloves. The coolant was still 195 or so when running but you could tell the engine itself was far hotter than it should be. I do have a Ford Performance water pump, not that it means much (it isn't the high flow type). Exhaust temps are all 200 C or so at the header.

    The sensors I replaced were the ECT, MAP (the one on the strut tower), PIP, and the manifold air charge temp thing.
    Last edited by emerygt350; 09-21-2018 at 07:40 AM.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  10. #10

    Default

    My car doesn't overheat. After a 20 minute drive, the intake is hot enough that I can barely touch it. I think the thermostat is stuck open and you have a sensor issue due to temp.

    The temp sensor doesn't fail unless its under 50°f or above something like 300°f.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  11. #11

    Default

    Now the OP with his car getting hot during stop and go traffic... that is different. "the only exception is if I'm in stop and go traffic for a long time, then the gauge runs to almost pegged. " That leads me to think the fan clutch is gone. The thermostat as you say is probably stuck open too. but I suspect something amiss with the sensors since just idling wont cause the problem.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    Now the OP with his car getting hot during stop and go traffic... that is different. "the only exception is if I'm in stop and go traffic for a long time, then the gauge runs to almost pegged. " That leads me to think the fan clutch is gone. The thermostat as you say is probably stuck open too. but I suspect something amiss with the sensors since just idling wont cause the problem.
    I swapped out all my sensors too. All Motorcraft. I also have a heavy duty clutch on my car. it only pegs the gauge if Im in stop and go for an hour or so, otherwise it runs cool.

    What bugs me right now is the inconsistency in my idle from one day to the next. I set the curb idle a few days ago. Drove around for an hour and it stayed at 550 rpm. the next day the rpms were low and I had to adjust again. Also in the past whenever I turn on the AC it would bump up the rpms a smidge, but now its dropping rpm when the AC is engaged.

    Makes me thing the dashpot isnt doing what its supposed to do. I do have a spare ECM I could try to swap to see if performance changes.

  13. #13
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    My car doesn't overheat. After a 20 minute drive, the intake is hot enough that I can barely touch it. I think the thermostat is stuck open and you have a sensor issue due to temp.

    The temp sensor doesn't fail unless its under 50°f or above something like 300°f.
    Also about the Coolant temp sensor, I had issues getting one that would make the car run right. I tried 3 Motorcrafts and all made the car un drive able. I have a Neihoff in there for the past 5 years. And in the past i have always got a code fail if the car wasnt at full operating temp when running the test.

  14. #14

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    I wonder if a sending unit wire is in bad shape. I had the exact same ac issue (posted it but nobody responded), however that was fixed when I replaced all the sensors. Also, setting idle withe the votm is kinda a last ditch thing. I find that when all vacuum leaks are fixed and the sensors are doing what they are supposed to, the will idle correctly with that dashpot bottomed out.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  15. #15
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Freeport NY
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    I wonder if a sending unit wire is in bad shape. I had the exact same ac issue (posted it but nobody responded), however that was fixed when I replaced all the sensors. Also, setting idle withe the votm is kinda a last ditch thing. I find that when all vacuum leaks are fixed and the sensors are doing what they are supposed to, the will idle correctly with that dashpot bottomed out.
    I hate playing with the dashpot too. Theres no vacuum leaks in my engine bay. I dropped a crate engine in 2 summers ago and I replaced all the vacuum lines. I do think I may have a vacuum leak in the back of my HVAC though. Its not behaving as it should. When I turn on AC the dashpot should bump up the idle a notch but it drops instead. Also when I accelerate hard at WOT the AC cuts out and blows out the defrost vents temporarily.

  16. #16

    Default

    Wow, that is not right...
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  17. #17

    Default

    Have you checked the vacuum canister under the fender for leaks?
    My car would have the inconsistent idle and sometimes had the MAP code, it was the vacuum canister had a hole in it. I found it when the defrost was the only vent working.
    1978 Mercury Zephyr boxtop 5.0 EFI T5Z 8.8
    1999 Ford Contour 2.5 V6 5 speed
    2016 Ford Focus ST 2.0 Ecoboost 6 speed

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