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  1. #26

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    So, did you end up figuring out what to do with the driveshaft...good info by the way. Going to have to flag this thread. I'm maybe a month away from starting this journey too.

  2. #27

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    Oh, I didn't look before. Your up in the great white nort. Where red green lives. You know, hes more popular here in iowa I think, than up there. Those poly spring insulators will give you some lift in the rear too. Compared to sacked out 35 yr old rubber ones

  3. #28
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    If you want a little bit of a drop without swapping springs, hit the neighborhood hardware store plumbing department and toss in some big heavy duty rubber rings.

    Ive done that in the lower spring perch before, held up fine. Prevents the dreaded metal on metal.

  4. #29

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    Welp, strait6 you just as well start oiling up those 8 bolts now, every couple days. Maybe they will come out when your ready next month. It's not necessarily getting the nuts off, its getting the bolt from the sleeve. There in lies the problem. Dont be afraid to be use that penetrating oil

  5. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    Welp, strait6 you just as well start oiling up those 8 bolts now, every couple days. Maybe they will come out when your ready next month. It's not necessarily getting the nuts off, its getting the bolt from the sleeve. There in lies the problem. Dont be afraid to be use that penetrating oil
    I recently ran out of PB blaster anyway...So I need to buy some as it is. Yes, I should start doing that now!

  6. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    Welp, strait6 you just as well start oiling up those 8 bolts now, every couple days. Maybe they will come out when your ready next month. It's not necessarily getting the nuts off, its getting the bolt from the sleeve. There in lies the problem. Dont be afraid to be use that penetrating oil
    I tried that. Ended up using the grinder with a cut off wheel on thr bolts...

  7. #32
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    The sleeves have an expander slot. Drive a cold chisel or punch into the slot and it will open the sleeeve just enough to bust the rust loose. That’s how I finally got some of my bolts out. (Rusty damn old antichrist...... grrr). It will come out in therapy — eventually

  8. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    The sleeves have an expander slot. Drive a cold chisel or punch into the slot and it will open the sleeeve just enough to bust the rust loose. That’s how I finally got some of my bolts out. (Rusty damn old antichrist...... grrr). It will come out in therapy — eventually
    I might **** with it some cause I am cheap... can always put some rubber or a washer to make the difference
    I used cable lube pj1 and freed up the siezed park brake cables. I bought hardware kits for the new brake shoes.
    I had some new drums sitting around..

  9. #34

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    Ok. Update. I air hammered out the broken bolts on the lower control arm bushings.
    I reused all the brake lines. Parts store said 6 weeks to get.
    I electrical taped the lower springs(cant buy isolators unless wait for aftermarket(energy suspension)
    The driveshaft has just over an inch to bottom out with the wieght on the tires. So it is ok. Thats a factory c4 302 from a 7.5 to a 8.8 in a 78 futura it works just fine.
    Filled with 75/140 and friction modifier for the new clutches and gears.
    At 60mph at about 3krpm
    Drove 5 miles let it cool. Drove 5 miles. Did one 60%throttle and both tires spun maybe 10 feet on new pavement and new tires. First time it spun the tires off the line with close to 400hp.
    I hit it once around a cornor and tach went to 5k and started going sideways... taking easy now on the gears...lol
    Next spring subframe connectors and install line lock.
    Then track to try it out which is a 160mile drive.
    In the mean time work on my 68 mustang from 1995 project.
    I do have to race a built 383 in my brothers 74 charger.
    He knows it will lose. His friend said "yeah but the fairmont probably does not transfer wieght off the line."
    All I can say is that is one of the dumbest things I ever heard..
    It may wheelie who knows. I do have drag radails mounted in the shed that need to be burnt up...
    Snow is coming soon so will all be 5 months from now.

  10. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by 78futura View Post
    The driveshaft has just over an inch to bottom out with the wieght on the tires. So it is ok. Thats a factory c4 302 from a 7.5 to a 8.8 in a 78 futura it works just fine.
    Hooray!

  11. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by Str8sixfan View Post
    Hooray!

    I could not help myself and did a couple lauches.. light chripping for 2 seconds while flying up to 6k. No hesitation or bog. So very happy. Kinda wish it did a burnout but really that would hurt the times for racing. Will see next year at the track.
    Hoping to hit in the 12.5 range the first couple trys. Have to be at least a low 13 high.. high 11 would be very happy.

  12. #37
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Happiness and laughing gas...... both in the 11’s

  13. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Happiness and laughing gas...... both in the 11’s
    I am too much of a whimp to spray. Will settle for good enough. The kids are all sub 10 or it is slow...

  14. #39
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Agreed. But what often happens is an inability to take it to the streets or translate that sub 10 at the track to anything but tire smoke. Lol. Love it when they over play their contact patch.

    Back in the day that was always when I get paid ..... lol

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