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  1. #1

    Default Air conditioning compressor replacement

    84 2.3 turbo GT vert got that very small AC compressor I think it is a hr980. What are you guys using to replace this with? Replacements that I found so far very expensive.
    I would rather be juged by 12 than carried by 6

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member SchoolBoy's Avatar
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    The quick fix is find another hr980 on ebay an put it in. The down side is that they are really not ment to work with r134A so its a gamble on the life span of the compressor. Now if you have the ablility to fab up the bracket and change out the other parts of the system a Sanden 9285 or Seltek 45021 compressor, with an idler arm and pulley must be sourced, paired with spectra 7-3554 condesor. These are the major components to the old hose wizards kit.
    If you blink at the end of the straight away you'll miss the twisties and what fun would that be!
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  3. #3
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    The Hr980 compressor was going for $100. New. A while back. I do not believe are available rebuilt since they are welded together.
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    FEP Power Member SchoolBoy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    The Hr980 compressor was going for $100. New. A while back. I do not believe are available rebuilt since they are welded together.
    That is correct.
    If you blink at the end of the straight away you'll miss the twisties and what fun would that be!
    1982 Capri RS 5.0L
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    1985 SVO 2A & leather.
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    Electronic boost controller and bypass valve
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-Bypass-Valve
    Opperation SVO Tunes http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...51#post1148551

  5. #5
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    Rockauto lists a Nippondenso 6P148A compressor for the 84 Mustang turbo. Not sure what the difference is between that and the HR980. What kind of prices are you seeing? I usally expect to pay $200-$300 for a compressor depending on what it is for.
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  6. #6
    FEP Supporter ccurtin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchoolBoy View Post
    The quick fix is find another hr980 on ebay an put it in. The down side is that they are really not ment to work with r134A so its a gamble on the life span of the compressor. Now if you have the ablility to fab up the bracket and change out the other parts of the system a Sanden 9285 or Seltek 45021 compressor, with an idler arm and pulley must be sourced, paired with spectra 7-3554 condesor. These are the major components to the old hose wizards kit.
    Anyone put one of the new compressors into the older serpentine belt brackets? Or have a picture of the newer compressor mounting tabs vs. the stock one to see how different they are (depth to the pulley as well as the mounting locations)?

    Thanks

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  7. #7

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    If you do buy from rock auto, be warned they make you buy a drier and an orfice in a kit. Not really that big of a deal, as the age of the parts in my opinion warrants it. What they don't tell you is you have to have some one flush your system also for any warranty to apply. I just learned this the hard way. I replaced my working but leaking, not broken, compressor. The new one hammered like crazy the instant it turned on. It would nearly kill the engine. NO WARRANTY! Ps. I have replaced many compressors over the years in GM shops so I feel more than qualified for this type of work
    Last edited by 2nd chance cobra; 09-04-2018 at 07:28 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    If you do buy from rock auto, be warned they make you buy a drier and an orfice in a kit. Not really that big of a deal, as the age of the parts in my opinion warrants it. What they don't tell you is you have to have some one flush your system also for any warranty to apply. I just learned this the hard way. I replaced my working but leaking, not broken, compressor. The new one hammered like crazy the instant it turned on. It would nearly kill the engine. NO WARRANTY! Ps. I have replaced many compressors over the years in GM shops so I feel more than qualified for this type of work
    Is that from RockAuto or the compressor rebuilder/builder? My guess would be the latter. I can understand why they would require that as they can't know why everyone is replacing a compressor and full compressor failure is probably more likely than a leak (which I have seen on several cars). The last compressor failure that I fixed I replaced everything but the evaporator. For the cost of hoses and a condenser it wasn't worth my time to mess around trying to clean them. That and condensers seem just about impossible to flush/clean anymore.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
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  9. #9

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    I just redid my entire system with restoring the car. I sourced an NOS HR980 compressor. Itís recharged with 134 and works great. Just make sure you get all the old R12 oil out of the system if your retrofitting it and put in new oil.


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  10. #10

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    Thanks guys I actually do air conditioning work but not on automobiles but it's the same thing basically. I already changed mind over to 134a couple years ago. Yes the New Old Stock hr980 300 bucks. I'm thinking of switching over to serpentine belt set up. Although I'm not totally committed yet. I think I will put new components in the system either way I go. After all my car is almost totally original still. I actually just changed the factory starter last year. Thanks again guys for your input and ideas
    I would rather be juged by 12 than carried by 6

  11. #11
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    I did a search and saw one of 5he new style compressors come up as a replacement but it was on a tractor. Sounds like it’s possible. Maybe an ac dealer might have options.
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  12. #12
    FEP Power Member SchoolBoy's Avatar
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    All you need to do is use one of the compressors I listed for v belts and have a custom bracket made up.Name:  FILE0011.jpg
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    If you blink at the end of the straight away you'll miss the twisties and what fun would that be!
    1982 Capri RS 5.0L
    Suspension Build http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...tion-and-Build
    1985 SVO 2A & leather.
    Motor Build http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=63505
    Dyno stats and exhaust install http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...Dyno-d-finally
    My FMIC build http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-amp-D-project
    Electronic boost controller and bypass valve
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-Bypass-Valve
    Opperation SVO Tunes http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...51#post1148551

  13. #13

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    Normal engineering in accessory drive area calls for a minimum of 3 mounting points, and something to preven twist perpendicular to the drive belt, FYI.

    I would add something to help prevent these types of torque induced flex or walk. It avoids eventual - 10K-20K mile down the road failure and drama associated with catostrophic breakages.

    Just what Iíve learned from the school of hard knocks. We made 100% of the brackets on a few swaps I did over the years and I learned a ton about what can permit failures down the road.

    I had a junk yard within walking distance and an I take now pay in less than 2 weeks or before asking for the next part type of arrangement with the guy that owned the yard. Prices were right so it was a lot of make the wrong stuff work. The ol guy saved my bacon multiple times, miss talking to him all these years later.
    Last edited by erratic50; 09-13-2018 at 06:27 PM.

  14. #14
    FEP Power Member SchoolBoy's Avatar
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    3 mounting points for the bracket to block or bracket to compressor?
    If you blink at the end of the straight away you'll miss the twisties and what fun would that be!
    1982 Capri RS 5.0L
    Suspension Build http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...tion-and-Build
    1985 SVO 2A & leather.
    Motor Build http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=63505
    Dyno stats and exhaust install http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...Dyno-d-finally
    My FMIC build http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-amp-D-project
    Electronic boost controller and bypass valve
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-Bypass-Valve
    Opperation SVO Tunes http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...51#post1148551

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