Being as open and honest as I can here...... four lug brake parts cost 2-3x more and are vastly less effective. If autocross is your goal dump the Stock crap as soon as reasonably possible.
Focus on removing unsprung weight.
i would not waste one penny on 15” or 16” rims. The volume of 17” that’s out there is insane if you look. Unfortunately most are 5 lug but no big deal
83 Ranger 2WD front rotors fit on spindles like those found on an 86 and older or 87-93 4 banger car. Stock bearings and seals work, stock dust caps do not. A 1/4” spacer MAY be needed depending upon how your spindles ride on your struts.
out back, get an 8.8 out of a 94-95 Mustang as it’s the cheapest way to go 5 lug via full rear differential swap. Added bonus is frequently you can get 3.27:1 or 3.55:1 rear gears. I hate the wider rear diff under a fox, but that can get corrected later with an axle swap.
Junk source 17x8 5-lug tribar wheels from a 94-95 GT with tires. These are the lightest rims available unless you drop a wad of cash on exotic stuff.
Most any 245/45/17 tire you get will be better than the 225/60 you are talking about running because you have 2” less sidewalk to flex and way more rubber on the ground
Ceramic and/or carbon fiber blended pads - especially in front - and you’re in business.
M1858 master cyl and an LMR plug and an adjustable proportioning valve will help
If you can get to a 255/40/17 tire do it
A lower friction balljoint in front will help immensely. SN95 or if you don’t mind a bit wonky bumpsteer then X2 will drop the car 3/4”. Source caster/camber plates - certain ones like old HP Motorsports plates will drop you another 3/4”
in back toss the factory spring perch rubber rings and substitute some thin rubber from the local plumbing store.
dump the stock rear swaybar and ideally get a Maximum Motorsports adjustable swaybar that doesn’t cause rear suspension bind
SN95 rear shocks with Fox bumpstops removed help huge
front and rear springs are a mismatch on the fox. If all you do is corner carve increase the front spring to around 800 like the 1993 Cobra R and leave the rear GT spring.
if you also drive on the street, swap rear springs to 4 banger LX as they are the same rate as the street version of the 1993 Cobra
Just my honest thoughts. Good luck
this focuses on the most bump and droop travel while dropping the car significantly for better handling
those who have read my build thread know the above is about to the letter what I did initially to my car. Then I went back and added 95 spindles and a bumpsteer kit and new A arm bushings, etc.
Once I put on my panhard bar and buy a torque arm I may add some more rear spring.
Its about the cheapest way to outstanding handling and street manners.
dont forget strut tower brace, lower K brace, and subframe connectors and a street cage from Kenny Brown.
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