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  1. #1

    Default Opinion on wheel and tires for cheap autocross

    Ok... after autocrossing twice on my 225/60r15 all seasons, I am looking to do 2 simple things with very little money.

    Get a set of turbines for 100 bucks and put some 245/40ZR15 88W (Ventus R-s4, 133 a piece) on them.

    My priorities are

    1) not spend much money
    2) improve grip (pretty much anything will do that)
    3) lower the center of gravity

    My car sits very high on its snow tires (that is what the other drivers called my nice coopers) at the moment so I think I could gain a bit by the 1.5 inch drop that the 245/40 will provide. The 15s are small, will fit, will probably have the same offset etc. I don't think this combo will overtax my ancient TRX suspension. And the smaller circumference will also make my 3.73 gears into 4.21s or so.

    These would only be for racing.

    Good idea? bad idea?



    Last edited by emerygt350; 09-03-2018 at 12:05 PM.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member flyin5-o's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    Ok... after autocrossing twice on my 225/60r15 all seasons, I am looking to do 2 simple things with very little money.

    Get a set of turbines for 100 bucks and put some 245/40ZR15 88W (Ventus R-s4, 133 a piece) on them.

    My priorities are

    1) not spend much money
    2) improve grip (pretty much anything will do that)
    3) lower the center of gravity

    My car sits very high on its snow tires (that is what the other drivers called my nice coopers) at the moment so I think I could gain a bit by the 1.5 inch drop that the 245/40 will provide. The 15s are small, will fit, will probably have the same offset etc. I don't think this combo will overtax my ancient TRX suspension. And the smaller circumference will also make my 3.73 gears into 4.21s or so.

    These would only be for racing.

    Good idea? bad idea?



    Yes that would work. I have one cautionary note however. The RS-4's are a directional tire and limit your ability to rotate to even out tire wear. I would suggest the BFG Rival S-1.5's. They are a bit more pricey at $181.99 shipped from Summit racing but have an asymmetrical tread pattern. But if you are just using them for autocross they should last you a couple of years. I turned about 140 laps @ Gingerman on a set of 4 and saw about 1/3-1/2 tread wear.

  3. #3

    Default

    Yeah, I am thinking 3 or 4 races a year at most.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member E2ZZGLX's Avatar
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    I would spend a little more and invest is some 15x8 Bassett’s to take advantage of the 245’s to open them up and not “stuff” them on a 7
    Current keepers...
    77 Cobra II

    80 Bobcat Sport
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    86 SVO
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  5. #5

    Default

    Hmmm... now that I have investigated some more I am wondering about 225/45 vs 245/40 these are on 15x7 turbines so 245 is pushing it and I assume in autocross that kind of pushing is what you can't get away with (like just putzing around town or maybe drag racing). Soo... would 225/45s be a better tire for grip in the corners if I am restricted to the 15x7 wheel or should I just go with a 1/2 inch more tread on each tire and hope it is useful on the narrow wheel? Something tells me the 225 is going to be the smarter choice. Price is the same...
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Obviously stuffing as much rubber under the car as possible has it's benefits in regards to traction and handling.

    With that said, generally in autocrossing and road racing you are better to stretch a slightly narrower tire to fit said wheel than to run a wider tire than is recommended for said size. A wider tire squeezed onto a narrow wheel will bulge and that bulge will flex and move while cornering which will limit your grip and at times can cause some unpredictable handling.

    If you are wheel width limited in your class to a 7", then I would definitely run the 225, if you can run an 8" then a 245 or maybe even a 255 depending on brand and type of tire. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #7

    Default

    The CAM class isn't limited (except the 200w thing for tires), but sadly my budget is... I can get 4 turbines for cheap. I know the car is a little heavy for 225s but it ain't doing too bad on 225/60 all seasons with a completely inexperienced driver.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  8. #8
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    You could spend a few buck on a Harbor Freight tire-changing stand and tools, break down 2 directional tires per year for rotation purposes. A bubble balancer would probably work for low-speed competition, but you might want to have all the tires balanced by a shop every year anyway.

  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    Hmmm... now that I have investigated some more I am wondering about 225/45 vs 245/40 these are on 15x7 turbines so 245 is pushing it and I assume in autocross that kind of pushing is what you can't get away with (like just putzing around town or maybe drag racing). Soo... would 225/45s be a better tire for grip in the corners if I am restricted to the 15x7 wheel or should I just go with a 1/2 inch more tread on each tire and hope it is useful on the narrow wheel? Something tells me the 225 is going to be the smarter choice. Price is the same...
    I think you could go either way and be fine. There are lots and lots of examples of auto-xers running wider-than-recommended tires in classes where wheel width is limited. You're not running the car in a wheel width limited class (CAM), but your wheel width is budget-limited , so the end result is the same - you've got wheels that are more narrow than is optimal.

    When I first started auto-xing my Subaru almost 20 years ago, I ran 225/50s on 15x6" wheels - not optimal, but like your situation, they were available and cheap, so I ran 'em. Over the next couple seasons I stuck with 225/50s and went from those initial 15x6s to some 15x7s and then 15x8s. The main thing I remember noticing was that the wear was better / more uniform with the wider wheels. I can't recall what, if any, performance benefits I saw - other changes were made the car over time, so it would've been tough to attribute anything specifically to the wheel width changes. Note this was on a car with a "race weight" (with driver) of about 3250# or so, about 56/44 weight balance, probably not too far off from your Mustang.

    My guess is that the 245s would be faster, but the 225s would feel better (for the reasons that wraithracing mentioned).
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  10. #10
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    The CAM class isn't limited (except the 200w thing for tires), but sadly my budget is... I can get 4 turbines for cheap. I know the car is a little heavy for 225s but it ain't doing too bad on 225/60 all seasons with a completely inexperienced driver.
    I completely understand. Bottom line is either tire will work as others have mentioned. If you are budget limited then I would go with what fits the budget best in regards to both tires and wheels.

    Seat time is always the best investment when budget is limited, so whatever gets you out on the track and keeps you there is the best option. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  11. #11

    Default

    Thanks you guys, that helps.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  12. #12

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    Ended up getting another set of ten holes, the turbines were a little too beat.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  13. #13

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    Tires get here next week. Hope they are not too low...
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  14. #14
    FEP Senior Member gt4494's Avatar
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    back in the dark ages to pass pre-race tech they had too see the actual studs on the axles. Acorn style lug nuts would not pass.

    Maybe "wrathracing" knows if that is still in the rule book.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
    Almost "Stock"

  15. #15
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    ^^^ I started auto-crossing in '98 or '99, have never heard of that.

  16. #16

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    Yeah, didn't even make me pull the caps at the last race.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    I went through all this in my 81. The cheap option is to figure out what people don't think is worth anything, and pick it up.


    Just asking, I was able to get for cartage six Ferrari 400i rims and 240 55 415 tires which just fit if you do the BMW Rider LSC wheelarch mods that Ford did on the last 1991 to 1993 Mustangs. Or Mustang Marty's 79 mods.


    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...26-My-79-Coupe


    I have a set of MGB GT hub adaptors which are just like the early Ferrari Boranni wheels.

    The cost is finding a set of white gaurds, and being blod enough to cut them, and then be smart enough to haggle a price (rent borrow beg But not Steal)

    I devaned imports from Europe and Australia, and the European Derived Front drive Ford stuff sits on 4-1/4" Volvo/Ferrari 108 mm PCD hubs.


    They are convertable to 5 on 108 by redrilling your hubs. Daytona Cromodora 7 1/2 x L15 rims are around, and fake ones exist also.

    That allows you to use knock ons/offs for an MGBGT or rear drive Ferrari from the 69 to 76 Daytona era. 365 Ferraris. You'd be amazed how helpfull the Faz guys are. Some one might let you borrow there 15's


    The bolt securing situation for Fords is critical.


    A set of 15" Daytona rims with a set of big 245's should work. The other option is Porsche 928S 225/50 16 tires on some kind of 4-1/4, 4.25" rim with the four to five stud converion.
    Multifit five to four stud E35's on the 4 to 5 on 108 pitch alloy rims. They are around for Mondeos and Front drive Cougars and that kinda stuff. The US 1999 to 2002 was a Mondeo platform rehashed as the Mercury Cougar. The standard wheels had 215 mm width tires and rim fit is a beeatch for sure, but do the checking.

    I decided the Hossier A6 series dot tires like the PinePac 32 were the best option for me.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...kinnies!/page2


    You need to get 16x 8" and run the 225 or 235/60 16's scrubbed to clear the arches.

  18. #18

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    Yeah, I wanted to avoid any kind of mods so I figured this was both cheap and safe. I was tempted to go to the new trx wheels but 16 is a dead size for new rubber. 15 inch rubber is also significantly cheaper than 17 or 18 and still popular because of miatas and mr2s. Funny how much brands of the same size vary too. One of my 20 dollar rims has a bfg sport tore on it 225/60 and it is about 1/2 an inch wider and noticeably a lower profile than my coopers.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  19. #19
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    MGB GT knock on's are a PCD adaptor. I was gonna get a set for my 1958 PA Vauxhall which used a high proprtion of BMC Girling-Lockhead brake parts. The English did the sprts car knock on kick for a long time, and ferraris uesd a high proprtion of English parts too. The basic knock ons continued in race cars, and the Italians kept on with the same basic 108 mm pitch parts.


    AP racing bolt on hub adaptors




    Ferrari 5 star Hexagram wheels look cool, and 15" tires are still serviced.

    The tire gap grading is due to cost plus margin for slow selling stock. Back in 1992 to 2004, it was out with the 245/50 14 wheel, and everyone was going 15" .


    Tires are going taller as cars progress back to the pre 1946 style of taller two box forms.

    Supercar tires, the 928S and SVO and Saleen tire size are still going to be serviced, IMHO its the "whole of life" cost you should look at.

    To create the advantage, you check off tire cost against Performance of intended function. Bigger tire height is okay if you can get the leading edge of the gaurds clear, and so is width.

    The stock hub and brakes should be your goal. The adaptors allow you to go nuts with the best wheels and tires that suit.

    The other option is multi slot alloy rims like my Eurobien Mantas.






    Or my Chinese multiple slot Toyota/Nissan Skyline wheel that allows 18" wheels. People offload these all the time. My son got them from a Corona that had a blown engine....it was just as easy as taking the car to a scrap metal merchant, and keeping the wheels and 225/45 18's.

  20. #20
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Go back over PanCakeShakes http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ri-Turbo-Build

    Dynamic Toyota paint code instead of conservative FoMoCo hues rock, then 5.8 Windsor, F cam, EECIV. Turbo.....And Black Hi Fat 17's


    There's too much sugar here


    His car was the reason I went to 18's on multi slot wheels.

  21. #21

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    Those do look awesome, and not cheap... Knock offs would be hilarious.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  22. #22
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gt4494 View Post
    back in the dark ages to pass pre-race tech they had too see the actual studs on the axles. Acorn style lug nuts would not pass.

    Maybe "wrathracing" knows if that is still in the rule book.
    I am not aware of any rule that "Required" that. I have seen recommendations of safety in regards to open lug nuts and thread engagement, but as long as the wheels were secured with appropriate lug nuts and tightened correctly they passed most tech inspections that I have seen at least in regards to amateur autocrossing/road racing.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  23. #23
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    I went through all this in my 81. The cheap option is to figure out what people don't think is worth anything, and pick it up.
    Perhaps in New Zealand that means one should shop for Ferrari wheels (), but here in the US, the cheap and easy option is exactly what emerygt350 got - 15" turbines or 10-holes. They're a dime a dozen, and they fit the car properly as-is, so no need to come up with some strange conglomeration of parts.
    '89 GT convertible - not a four-eye
    '82 Zephyr Z7 - future track car

  24. #24
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    True that....but Thou Shalt Have Fun with Thy Neigbours Junk....


    The BBS style AME McLaren and LSC style center hubs where copied off the racing BBS and Compomotive and MOMO Center Hub lock. All safety mided racers go that way.


    After 3 years, wheels like that are worth nothing, so thats kind what your looking for, used. Undamaged, circuit race Volvo, Focus or MGB or TR6 "junk" would be my suggested best pickup. Not 15 x 7 Turbines.

    However, a bird in the hand....

    The difference with Strange conglomeration is that we have to race what we have. And we really do race Eveything, Anywhere. Center lock hubs are safer if done right. I no like the stock four stud lock nuts, but again, its the least cost option that meets your needs.


    So there CNC machinists who work short order all the time, and stock old wheels have stock old wheel sizes.







    Over here, expensive mass produced or smaller order generic stuff is ultimately worth nothing when its 7000 miles away from anywhere else...Exceptions are rust free old Jags and early front drive Minis, and some of the Round and Square body US based Falcons.

    To save meoney, you then have to know whats different.

    The bolt on Momo hub is a cheap circuit racing part that Fords SVO boss used on the Zakspeed Escorts. Four stud, 108 mm pitch.

  25. #25
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    I understand costs, but you need to whittle down your ideal best, and then come back on costs.


    I think you need more than 15 x 7's. But its a convert, so chassis twist goes up as you over tire it.



    Maybee for you, 15 x7's are the only best option.







    Pancakeshake's Capri

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ri-Turbo-Build

    PhotoBucket restoration time, PO'B.

    Previously Brandon-ATOR's (BM62391) Old Beast!

    Hope the headgasket is healed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pancakeshake View Post
    Sorry to bump an old thread.

    But I have a new toy that may look familiar!

    In good hands now, gonna get the attention she deserves haha.

    I use the same tires on my AWD Stagea...great choice of rolling stock. Only I'm 18"s with less width and offset.The 17's look nice with 275 rear, 245 front, 6" backspace on 9" wheels.

    Center hub adaptors and knock ons have the same age old race car tech. With hex centers, the wheel has no PCD restrictions, so the wheel is worth more to any autocross car.


    Aftermarket 18 x 8" 4 on 108mm wheels. And the tires you like.


    If your unable to roll the gaurds, run 245's with the offsets carfully calculated to suit the clearances. Inner fender plastic gaurds get removed for autocross.


    653mm maxmimum unloade wheel diameter, maybee less with a stock fendered unrolled lip fender.

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