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  1. #1

    Default Leaking cruise control

    So.... Plugged the cruise control vacuum port and suddenly my power brakes are powered. I think my computer was doing a good job compensating but I can tell it is running even better now.

    From previous post I am thinking I have to pull the quarter panel to fix this. Is that the case and can I screw that up?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  2. #2

    Default

    Here is where it is located and also you can see the vacuum line routing if that helps any. It's under that protective rubber bag. It may be easier to remove the fender as pictured. I think so anyway. This was a southern car though with no rusty bolts. Also I'm not sure what you mean when you say you blocked it off but keep in mind there is also a vacuum line running inside the car with a cancel switch that connects to the brake pedal. You may get lucky and that is where the leak is.



    Last edited by homer302; 09-02-2018 at 05:21 PM.

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    Save yourself some wrench time, it's easily accessible by removing the wheel and INNER fender liner.
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ourobos View Post
    Save yourself some wrench time, it's easily accessible by removing the wheel and INNER fender liner.
    I don't know, if you let me use an impact it might be closer than you think including jacking the car up time, LOL. You must know an easy way to remove the inner fender liner that I don't. Those for me are always a PITA getting those @#$%^ push pins out and then you usually have to remove the lower fender bolt to pull the fender out enough to get the @#$% thing out! HA. At least that's how it goes for me. Notice I left the fender liner on the car. I didn't actually remove the fender to get to the cruise anyway. I was inspecting for rust and cleaning and painting. Orobos probably is right at the end of the day. That theoretically should be the fast way.

  5. #5

    Default

    Interesting. Didn't know about the vacuum to the brake. I will have to look into that first.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Waikoloa , Hawaii
    Posts
    1,879

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    I don't know, if you let me use an impact it might be closer than you think including jacking the car up time, LOL. You must know an easy way to remove the inner fender liner that I don't. Those for me are always a PITA getting those @#$%^ push pins out and then you usually have to remove the lower fender bolt to pull the fender out enough to get the @#$% thing out! HA. At least that's how it goes for me. Notice I left the fender liner on the car. I didn't actually remove the fender to get to the cruise anyway. I was inspecting for rust and cleaning and painting. Orobos probably is right at the end of the day. That theoretically should be the fast way.
    They can be a bear no doubt. I just consider it quicker than unbolting the front bumper from the fender, trying to get behind the door to the fender bolts etc. It might be a tight race
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  7. #7

    Default

    none of this is making me excited about fixing it.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

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