Originally Posted by
stangPlus2Birds
Those quick connects can cut the wires. They are sized for specific wire gauges. Still, if the wire isn't centered, maybe old, etc, the "knife" slot may cut the wire in half. Again, those quick connects are used a zillion times a day. But, that does not mean that every single use works 100% fine.
If you lost vehicle power, it's because the battery positive, ground wire, or battery "went bad". Corrosion is a common problem that may come and go. Also, with the top posts, it is possible for the post to have a 'bad/stressed" internal connection. That was more common back before the 80's. They started making the supports stronger. But now, they make batteries cheaper. So, who knows.
The best way to find out is to take a voltmeter or test light, and see how the voltage is at the ends of the positive and negative cables. And, at the battery posts.
As long as the power to the vehicle problem is present, with a test light, voltmeter, and some clip jumper probe wires, it shouldn't be too hard to determine if it's the battery or one of the cables.
If it goes away, carry those items in the car. I had a flaky solenoid once in another car. At the time, I wasn't sure if it was the ignition switch, wires, etc. So, I got/made long extension probe wires and carried my voltmeter. After about 5 weeks, it happened again. Oh yea, a flashlight is also a good thing. Thankfully, I was near enough light. I hooked up the long probe wires, and found out that it was a flaky solenoid. After trying ~8 times to start the car, it started fine. And, the car kept starting fine until I got the new solenoid.
So, sometimes, it's easy to find the problem.
Other times, it requires planning in advance and being able to do the correct tests when the issue happens again.
Good Luck.
Connect With Us