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  1. #26
    FEP Senior Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Im going to replace the spring isolaters when I do the sprins and shocks so how does anybody feel about Energy Suspension? I'm looking at them because I am going to order some parts from Rock Auto and was just going to throw them in with the order.
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  2. #27

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    I used prothane, but I would bet there isn't a nickels worth of difference between the two. Be aware, you originals are likely junk, so you will get some lift in the rear. I would guess an inch give or take. I ended up using lowering springs eventually to get the right look

  3. #28
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I have used both Prothane and Energy Suspension. Either work just fine in regards to spring isolators.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

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    Current Mustangs:
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  4. #29
    FEP Senior Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    I used prothane, but I would bet there isn't a nickels worth of difference between the two. Be aware, you originals are likely junk, so you will get some lift in the rear. I would guess an inch give or take. I ended up using lowering springs eventually to get the right look
    I'm sure they're junk. Thats why I am replacing them. The lift will be ok since I'm using Eibach sports springs.
    Current Mustangs
    1966 6 cylinder coupe
    1984 SVO 9W
    1985 Saleen #132

  5. #30
    FEP Senior Member dagenham's Avatar
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    So I installed the new springs, shocks and insulators this afternoon. The car now sits 1-1/2 inches higher. I measured at the top of the wheel opening. I haven't driven the car yet because it's raining and plus I want to do the fronts too.
    And before anyone asks, yes I made sure the springs are oriented correctly.
    Current Mustangs
    1966 6 cylinder coupe
    1984 SVO 9W
    1985 Saleen #132

  6. #31

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    That's about where I started. I ended up with lowering springs in the back ultimately. You should also drive around the block a couple times before you cinch the control arm bolts back down.

  7. #32
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    So I installed the new springs, shocks and insulators this afternoon. The car now sits 1-1/2 inches higher. I measured at the top of the wheel opening. I haven't driven the car yet because it's raining and plus I want to do the fronts too.
    And before anyone asks, yes I made sure the springs are oriented correctly.
    Did you loosen all of the control arm bolts when you installed the new springs? If you did loosen them, did you install the springs, lower the full weight of the car onto the suspension before tightening up the rear control arms at ride height?

    Failure to loosen the control arm bolts both front and rear when doing a spring swap will affect the final ride height after the install. I personally loosen the bolts, install the springs, then take the car around the block a couple of times to cycle the suspension as much as possible. Then I jack the car up and put it on stands (actually I have wooden crib blocks that all me to set the wheels on @ 14" above the ground) jounce the suspension a couple of times to settle again, then tighten up all the control arm bolts with the car at ride height and full weight on the suspension. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  8. #33
    FEP Senior Member dagenham's Avatar
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    I did not loosen any control arm bolts.
    Current Mustangs
    1966 6 cylinder coupe
    1984 SVO 9W
    1985 Saleen #132

  9. #34

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    Seems like you may want to loosen things up and bounce it a bit then torque stuff down

    four car ramps work great. Drive up on the front the jack up the back and put them into place.

  10. #35
    FEP Senior Member dagenham's Avatar
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    So which bolts should be loosened? The uppers or the lowers and which end, the body end or the axle end?
    Current Mustangs
    1966 6 cylinder coupe
    1984 SVO 9W
    1985 Saleen #132

  11. #36

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    Both ends of the upper and lower control arms is the procedure youíll want to follow.

    Easy cruise around the block a few times then up in the air jacking off the center section of the rear diff then tires on the perch at the top of ramps is what I suggest

    torque it all down and see where things are from there.

  12. #37
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    I would loosen all 8 trailing arm bolts. The rubber control arm bushings only have a certain amount of flex built into them, If you do not loosen all the mounting bolts, and lower or raise the car, the bushings are not in the middle of their flex travel, so you could potentialy cause the bushings to eventually tear, and they could also make the car sit higher (or lower, depending on where the car is sitting in relation to the starting height.) By not having the bushing in a relaxed state at ride height, the bushing has a twisting load on it, similar to how a torsion bar functions.
    1978 Fairmont 2 door sedan, 428CJ 4speed. 9.972ET@132.54mph. 1.29 60 foot
    Replaced the FE big block with my 331/4 speed in my Fairmont, best 10.24ET @128 MPH.
    1985 Mustang LX hatchback NHRA Stock Eliminator 302 4 speed best in legal trim 12.31@107 mph, but has gone 11.42@115 with aftermarket intake, carb, and iron Windsor Jr. heads.New for 2012! 331 cube SB Ford, AFR 185 heads, solid flat tappet cam, pump gas; 10.296ET@128.71 mph, 1.37 60 foot.
    1979 Zephyr Z7, all original 302 auto, 2nd owner.

  13. #38
    FEP Senior Member dagenham's Avatar
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    One more stupid question. Should I need a compressor to put the Eibach sport springs in the front? With the Energy Suspension isolators on they need to be compressedabot 2 inches to be able to go in.
    Also I'm concerned about the ride height when I'm done. The new springs are taller than the old Racecraft springs. The rears were the same height when I compared old and new.
    Current Mustangs
    1966 6 cylinder coupe
    1984 SVO 9W
    1985 Saleen #132

  14. #39

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    YES.

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    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
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  15. #40

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    Iíve always just unbolted the co trial arm and used a jack when putting in lowering springs.
    Stock front springs definitely need a spring compressor.

    Ride height will depend on sprig rate and length. A lighter spring will compress more so even if itís longer it may end up shorter with weight on it.


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  16. #41
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    One more stupid question. Should I need a compressor to put the Eibach sport springs in the front? With the Energy Suspension isolators on they need to be compressedabot 2 inches to be able to go in.
    Also I'm concerned about the ride height when I'm done. The new springs are taller than the old Racecraft springs. The rears were the same height when I compared old and new.
    Most of the time, I can install lowering springs without a spring compressor. Although I generally loosen the front control arms so they will drop down and literally point directly down at the ground. That gives me the most room to fit the spring and makes sure that the control arm is not preloaded before installing the new springs. I will admit that if you have the good spring compressor OTC 7045B, then not a big deal, but I never have much luck with all the other types . . . At least not on a Fox. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  17. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I will admit that if you have the good spring compressor OTC 7045B, then not a big deal, but I never have much luck with all the other types . . .
    Makes the job so easy... right tool for the job.
    86 SVO 2R Comp Prep
    86 SVO 9L Comp Prep

  18. #43

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    Yes, big pain in the neck without the right tools


    Maximum Motorsports sells a tool that works well with lowering g springs I’m told. Without lowering springs, expect to compress the coil through the opening in the A arm and put it up into place and attach the spindle and strut. Very hazardous work, be careful!

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