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  1. #1

    Default 2.3 cam questions

    Okay, I've got a carbed n/a 2.3 that I've finally got going. Right now it has a Ranger roller cam because I wanted to make sure it would run after cutting out all the wiring and feedback computer and going back to regular duraspark ignition. It runs great but it sounds like a stock 2.3. I have two new slider cams but they seem huge for a street motor. Both are Engle Cams. Both hydraulic. One is DZ-11 .464 lift, 270 duration 3000-6500rpm. The other is DZ-12 .485 lift 300 duration 4000-7500rpm. The rpm range is terrible but could I adjust that with an adjustable cam gear? I've heard the head needs work after a certain lift, is this true? I'm sure I'll need new springs but do I need new followers with a new cam? I'm still learning about 2.3s. On a V8 I wouldn't change rocker arms because I swapped cams but the followers ride on the cam so I'm unsure. My stock rebuild has got out of control. The roller cam was a good upgrade over stock but not enough now. Any help or experienced life lessons on the subject would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    New cam, lifters, followers. A package that goes together. Followers for sure on a non roller cam.

    Adjustable cam sprocket moves the power band up or down. No experience with that.
    Do know must match timing belt, crank, aux shaft, sprocket tooth style, square or round.
    Search: 'changing cam curve adjustable cam sprocket for 2.3 ford'.

    Cam guide from 1990 Ford Motorsport/SVO/Performance Equipment Catalog:
    Name:  cam specs 1990 svo.jpg
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  3. #3

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    Okay, I can get a new set of followers. All my 2.3s are square tooth setup. I thought I read somewhere if you went over .450 lift something had to be done to the head but I can't find it. There is some interesting things on the search but nothing real specific. One thing does say you don't want to go over +/- 6 on the cam. I don't think that would move the rpm range as much as I need to.

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Of course, stories and articles can help in forming decisions.

    Felt a nice surprise Thurs driving mine.
    Merge to urban Downtown Detroit e-way traffic, 3rd gear, 45 mph.
    Ramp decline, freeway below ground level there.
    Real good push. Rarely need to floor it in that situation but did. What a hoot.
    Easily got up to traffic speed in very short burst. Cam 'kicks in' about 3200 the sweet spot.
    It is the Ford SVO A231 in stock tc carb turbo 79. Installed straight up, or if anything one tooth adv.
    If it was non turbo, would have used the 234 or 237, prob the roller 237. Everyday driving was key.

    That's the problem with parts like this. Having a tick higher spec from stock is nice to know.
    Other opinions are of value but do not necessarily apply as to what we like.
    Say car runs ok, but always wonder what the other selection would be like.
    Sometimes wish had the slightly hotter cam and/or lower rear gear.
    Most of the time, glad did not go too radical and enjoy the ride feeling cam is right.
    Mine is daily driver. No need for performance in winter or going to store.
    Went conservative for longevity, ease of tuning, fuel econ, overall drivability.
    When rebuild, wanted to go a tick higher but not too much due to turbocharger.
    The late SVO/T-Bird turbo coupe factory cam got the nod.
    Next one may be roller Ranger or latest turbo roller found to work for daily driving.

    Have had no issues using regular 10w30 Valvoline oil with slider. No more 50w. OP too high cold.
    Usually Valvoline, or house brand synthetic/blend.

    The highest lift cams apparently can or should use v8 valve springs per Ford notes.
    +/- 6 is what i found too.
    Would be lot easier using adj sprocket with bolts.
    Then once set, pretty much functions as regular sprocket with one notch.

    Faced the same cam choice, 1982, on brother's 1980 Z28, 350 bored to 355. Stock everything else.
    Went with mid spec Crane. Not stock, not too radical, five hyd choices made that easy.
    Figured the best of both worlds number wise. We agreed it was later.
    Automatic trans, Hurst Dual Gate shifter.
    Car sounded and ran awesome, especially during accel and back off. Stock mufflers.
    Stolen 2 weeks later after failed first attempt. We miss it. Never got to see what it did.
    Last edited by gr79; 08-26-2018 at 01:32 PM.

  5. #5

    Default

    I have an EFI 2.3 '86 Ranger I drive daily and I have a 4x4 F150 for winter. I put this motor in an '87 Ranger just to play around with. I got it cheap with a blown 2.0 and my first instinct was a V8 swap but I just wanted to be different. Plus, I've got a lot of 2.3 parts around. The block came from an '88 Mustang. The D- port head is from an '85 and the 2-barrel D-port intake came from an '83. Cams are expensive for these motors. I got both these cams for $40 still in the boxes. I paid $30 for the used Ranger roller with followers so I'd like to use one if possible. It's a small journal block, .030 over, crank stayed standard. Stock bottom end just balanced and ARP rod bolts. All Clevite bearings. Head is rebuilt but has stock size valves and no porting, it was shaved just enough to make it flat again. It has a 2100 Autolite carb and a long tube header. It runs much better than my EFI motor but it just feels like it wants more than the RR cam can offer. Can an unported stock head make power to 7500RPM or will the head become the weak link? Maybe I should find a ministock head that's already had all the work done to it? There seems to be a lot of aftermarket intakes for the oval port heads. I don't know much about 2.3s. I've basically read what I can find and then try it and see what happens. For instance, I found a tubular Ranger header a while back and couldn't tell any difference at all, other than it was lighter than the stock manifold. If I just knew for sure the cam would work in the head without modification I'd try it and see but D-port heads without cracks are very hard to find where I live. The truck is quick and it's really fun to drive, especially in the rain, but it could always be better. It has 3.73 gears with a posi unit and a 5-speed. MS, MB, no A/C and factory radio delete. It feels like it doesn't weigh anything.
    Last edited by DLB1985nc; 08-27-2018 at 08:18 PM.

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