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  1. #1

    Default Advice on removing front control arms with no space to work?

    Iím wondering if anyone has replaced the front control arms and has any tips as everything seems impossibly hard to get to.

    The nuts on the inside need a deep socket, but as soon as I use that, there isnít even enough room to use a knuckle and my impact. Thereís not enough range of movement on the inside for a breaker bar either. For the outer bolt heads, it looks like I have to remove the steering rack for the front bolt and the rear one is just too tight for a socket.

    Appreciate any advice. This project looks like itís going to be a PITA.

    Also, anyone know what they use for torque values on those nuts. My Chilton book had the largest torque range Iíve ever seen: 150-220

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    I used impact on the bolt head and held nut with wrench. Did not realize had it on the wrong end.
    Expecting to grab a nut when loose, was very surprised to pull out a dang bolt. It was wtf and wow.
    Brother was there watching. Was so impressed with impact gun, he bought same one too.

    Ford manual also has same torque spec, arm to #2 cross member. Could not get torque wrench in there to check.
    Strut mounting torque is almost as high.

  3. #3

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    Two options.

    1) Assuming that the spindle and spring are out of the way, have a second person push down on the tip of the FCA with their foot. Hold it down against the ground if possible. Put the closed end of a 24mm wrench on the nut. Slip a large floor jack handle or a 2" ID tube over the wrench. Push down on the end of the tube. This generates plenty of torque to get the nut loose. Once the second nut is loosened, the FCA will fall down as the bushings will no longer be twisted.

    Alternately, if the car is high in the air, you can push the end of the FCA up and have the wrench point straight down. No tube needed. Just push on the wrench with your foot.

    2) A deep 24mm socket isn't really needed. Silde the 24mm socket about 75% of the way onto the nut. Then insert the square (drive) portion of a breaker bar as far as possible into the socket. This usually results in about 50% engagement between the breaker bar and socket. From this point on, the procedure is the same as #1 above.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  4. #4
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    82GTforME's Avatar
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    You will likely need to either loosen and shift the steering rack or remove it to remove the front control arm bolts fully.

  5. #5

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    I had to loosen the rack bolts and steering shaft to move the rack out of the way. I installed Maximum Motorsports low profile front control arm bolts p/n MMF-2. https://www.maximummotorsports.com/F...air-P1231.aspx
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  6. #6

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    Iíll be doing this job this winter, Iíve done it before and the bolts have always been frozen in the bushings.

    My plan this time is to torch the bolts off and replace with new bolts for $25 from Jegs


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    New User ID89GT's Avatar
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    I literally just finished doing this. I had to swap to Sn95 control arms to correct a camber problem. It isn't to bad. Take the spindle and spring out and it clears it up a ton. You'll need a 30 mm for the bolt side of the LCA and either a 24 mm or 15/16 for the nut side. You will need to pull the rack bolts out. You can push the driver side of the rack up just enough to get the bolt for the LCA out.
    1985 Mustang GT TTOP

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