Started using the fine line paint pen on it. The Dr. Color Chip kit is good at some things but not great at others. There are many dozens of tiny chips and fine scratches that need to be dealt with. A brush or applicator are like using an axe when you need a scalpel.
Most of these scratches are way too deep to buff out on this super thin paint. Some are to the primer. The fine line paint pen does the trick.
How well is it matching? Silvers can be such an SOB. One of the harder colors to match imo. is the tool basically a cup with a check/roller ball in the tip?
Curious how that works.
Ah yes, The red tire dot. For a long time I heard that its the lightest spot on the tire to be aligned with the valve stem. But then I heard it has nothing to do with that at all & its just a production mark. My Brother in law works at firestone corporate. I'll have to see what he says haven't thought about that in a long time until seeing your TRX pict
Silver is tough. It matches well enough though. The pen is used by calligraphers and the well is filled with ink. It's a wonderful tool for paint touch ups.
Here's a good video. Go to around 4:00 minutes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uz-zW-cLdUs
Last edited by chazman; 09-07-2018 at 09:01 AM.
I had planned on flushing the brake fluid and cleaning up the wheel wells while I had the wheels off, but........I said screw it, and threw on the LMR wheels. I took it out for a 10 mile spin. I'll tell you one thing, these 225 Ohstus won't light up like several decades old 190 TRXs.
Oh, I should have taken pics, but I was in the zone. The rear window trim was a clusterfark. The original owner lifted it to silicone the rear window louver mounts under it. I've been avoiding it. But yesterday as I had the hatch up doing paint touch ups, the wind caught it and slammed it down. Holy smokes! Lots of crud flew out from under the trim.
So, I removed the trim, cleaned about a full tube's worth of silicone from the trim, (what a pain!), and blew out the window channel with compressed air to get 36 years of New Mexico dirt out. What a mess! You'd think I'd have the forethought to close the windows ahead of time. Nope! Amazing how much dirt was packed in there!
Just wanted to show you guys these window channels once I cleaned them. Like I said, maybe no biggie for you guys from dry states, but if you're in the rust belt.....
Nice work, car looks awesome!
On a two stage, I just touch up with color and not bother with clear.
Here's a link to the pen. Interestingly, this pen was sold for around 9 bucks, previously. When that first video hit Youtube, everyone sold out on them completely. The price went up to over $1200, (yes, over One Thousand Two Hundred!!). I doubt many were sold at that price. A few weeks later, production met demand and and prices stabilized.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Loew-Cornel...53.m2749.l2649
Nice work, I miss threads like this.
Current Stangs+
84Gt (9W) T-top 347EFI
http://www.foureyedpride.com/content...984-Mustang-GT
84Gt(1E)Hardtop Turbo
http://www.foureyedpride.com/content...e-of-the-Month
Looks killer with the 16" TRX rims / tires.....
1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
1986 SVO Mustang - 1C
I think I found my exhaust leak. What is this valve and where can I get a new one? It's located behind the motor on the passenger side.
Also fixed the accelerator pump today. In addition to the leaky pump, a couple of vacuum lines were disconnected as well as the choke. The plastic connector that goes on the choke was broken, so I temporarily re-attached it with a zip tie. Man, does the car run better! I do have an intermittent rolling idle though. like from 900 to 1900 RPM. I wonder if that valve above has anything to do with it.
BTW, by the volume of gas that was leaking from the accelerator pump weep hole, i figured the diaphragm had a huge rip in it. It was actually a barely perceptible tiny, tiny pinhole.
That is part 9f the secondary air injection .
I believe that connects both heads together, and feeds air into the exhaust .
They may be reproduced .
clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right
Rock auto has these two. This one appears to be the same as the one pictured above.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=485&jsn=485
Or for double the money a Motorcraft part.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=486&jsn=486
I'm thinking this is what I need. Can anyone confirm?
Last edited by chazman; 09-10-2018 at 09:02 AM.
Check valve. Ford spat these things out as a whole unit , mass production part with great quality that comes from making hunderds of thousands of them a year. . You can integrate a new aftermarket Check valve into the old pipe only if you've got a good friend who welds. Welding or fitting a threaded union new to old tube is a bad practice, but results vary. Skill makes the difference.
Try and find New Old Stock for an 82 5.0. Any other 2-bbl 4.2, 5.0 might work too.
There are other ways using hi temp silcone pipe, but your best bet IMHO is an All Point Bulleten, and asking around.
About Respect https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bk9WG8KWW0
X's Album http://vb.foureyedpride.com/album.php?albumid=2922
Oz JPS Stang http://www.nzmustang.com/Images/Hist...cecars/jps.htm
4V (A)US Race V8's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqk18A-ibjA
ITZOLD 81 Fox http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-fun-and-games
6V i6's @ http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10 ; AWD i6's @ http://www.apetracing.co.nz/
113 mph 84 5.0 at Amaroo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTezv3Pzdls&t=8s
Techno KCM Loop Out: Severed Heads 1m³ Angels 1985 https://youtu.be/Wll6G1KpLqQ
Future Shock https://youtu.be/rDKGkWU0lWQ
I've already ordered the first one off of ebay. Appears to be identical to what's on there.
Done with the paint correction on this survivor. Just need to paint the spoiler and some trim.
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