Possible to replace upper control arm bushing without bending control arm?

[MN_Stang]

Yesterday, I tried to extract my bushing on the UCA using a good ball joint press kit. Like many UCAs, it was rusted. I used PB blaster and the correct size cups, but the force bent the UCA while the bushing didn't even budge.

Was there anything else I could have done? Or do people just splurge for new one any time they replace? -I'd like to keep the open/rubber stock style as I've read about the articulation benefits.

[mustangxtreme]

It is possible but not super easy. You need to have some sort of spacer that fits the space between the ears of the control arm to prevent the arm from collapsing.

[erratic50]

Maximum Motorsports produces the upper arms you want.

[ZephyrEFI]

Maximum Motorsports produces the upper arms you want.

Yeah, this. I didn't feel they were that pricey. Also, MM has a tool to help you do the axle end bushings.

[HotNotch]

I replaced mine 2 weekends ago. Take a drill and 3/8" bit and drill into the rubber and around the sleeve as much as possible. Then remove the sleeve. I then used an air hammer and chisel to "peel" back the inner sleeve of the non-shouldered end of the bushing, and then collapse the sleeve. I then used an air hammer to hammer the old sleeve out. Process was pretty painless when the arm is in a vice. To reinstall, I used the vice, a pair of flat plates to push on the face of the bushing, and a steel cup (to prevent the bushing from bottoming out or contacting the vise jaw). Then pressed the new bushings in until tight and bottomed out on the shoulder. I used a socket in between the "C" channel of the arm to prevent it from collapsing. I used the Moog brand bushings and it saved me well over $100 between not having to purchase the arms, and also having the axle side bushings.

[onetrackrider]

i replaced mine 2 weekends ago. Take a drill and 3/8" bit and drill into the rubber and around the sleeve as much as possible. Then remove the sleeve. I then used an air hammer and chisel to "peel" back the inner sleeve of the non-shouldered end of the bushing, and then collapse the sleeve. I then used an air hammer to hammer the old sleeve out. Process was pretty painless when the arm is in a vice. To reinstall, i used the vice, a pair of flat plates to push on the face of the bushing, and a steel cup (to prevent the bushing from bottoming out or contacting the vise jaw). Then pressed the new bushings in until tight and bottomed out on the shoulder. I used a socket in between the "c" channel of the arm to prevent it from collapsing. I used the moog brand bushings and it saved me well over $100 between not having to purchase the arms, and also having the axle side bushings.

bingo!!!!!!