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  1. #1

    Default Sealing up torque box reinforcement from moisture

    After seeing the underside of my car and areas that rusted due to bad drainage/crevices that trap water, it has me wondering what I should do to avoid problems with the lower torque box reinforcements I'm installing.

    As you can see, there will not be enough room to get in and weld all the way around the reinforcement to seal it up: http://umiperformance.com/catalog/im...1000ad_LRG.jpg

    So, I wondered if I should try to somehow slather some silicone around the edge of the bracket where the welder can't get to?
    I imagine water getting kicked up and staying between the reinforcement and the torque box.

    Or is it best to just leave it and hope it mostly drains?

    Maybe I'm over thinking it, but I don't ever want to put in the amount of work fixing rust spots on this car as I have lately. Trying to mitigate by sealing as best I can the right way.

    Appreciate any advice!

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Jan 2015
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    Barboursville, WV
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    Silicone is acidic and can cause rust to form. If anything, I would use a butyl or tar-like product. I thought about using some roofing sealer from the hardware store. In the end, I just decided some etching primer and rustoleum would be well enough for mine. I really don't plan on driving it in the rain, except for the occasional pop-up storm that closes the local cruise-in.

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Oct 2014
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    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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    Use autobody seam sealer. It's made for the job.

  4. #4

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    I basically did the same as Broncojunkie and used etching primer and chassis paint in there. I try not to drive it in the rain, and definitely not in the snow.
    Project "WinBacK" 1986 LX Hatchback
    - CA car, 5.0 w/5 speed
    - Cobra 17x8.5's + Modded Mach1 Chin Spoiler + 83-84 Hood & Scoop/85-86 "Blackout"+ FMS Mass Air Kit+ MM Clutch Cable & Quadrant + Fiore Cable Adjuster + MM SFC's+ Wild Rides "Battle Boxes" + Explorer Intake, Converted TB & Injectors, 70 mm Mass Air Meter + BBK Ceramic Shorties + 2.5" Bassani O/R X-Pipe & Cat-Back Exhaust w/ 3" Tips + 3L27 w/ Carbon Fiber Clutches​(out of retirement) + Pistol Grip Shifter + 99-04 GT Front/00 Cobra Rear Disc Brakes

  5. #5

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    I plan to do both, etch and paint, then seam sealer it up..
    1968 mustang, 1986 mustang gt... One done, one still slow.

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
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    SE Michigan
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    5,141

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    Have same brackets. Used VHT Chassis black epoxy spray.. Multiple coats after prep before install.
    Adding undercoat or bedliner are an alternative for rust belt DD cars.

    Did use black RTV long time ago to seal hatch and w/s glass trim moldings keeps out dirt and water.
    Works great. No rust. Lasts a long time.
    Butyl would work ok on new surfaces. And of course good ol seam sealer. May be overkill.
    Bracket is in a sheltered pocket of car, like under an awning.
    Making mine removable for replacement should it rust. Leaving it as is with paint touch up as needed.
    Floor pan is rusted out and gone above that area.
    Installing new plate metal floor pan section for bracket upper bolts.

  7. #7

    Default

    Thanks for the feedback, everyone!

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