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  1. #1

    Default Ebay Power Window Conversion Kits

    Wondering if there's anyone here that's done them. I bought one a few years ago that uses your original regulator and runs a chain from the motor to the gear your crank attaches to. Mine is broken already.


    I mean, yeah, it was cheap so I don't expect that much from it. But here's my question. I see there are a couple of different styles. One has two housings (tubes?) for the chain like the one I installed, and the other uses one housing like this.


    They can both be found for about the same price, but I'm wondering if the one-housing type has any advantages or anything.

    My other side one is still working fine, so I'm not ready to say the two-housing type is total garbage.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  2. #2

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    Tried to look back at when I installed mine, and didn't find much. I had to do some detective work to find out when exactly it even happened. I did find this FEP post.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...wer-Window-Kit

    I thought I remembered someone telling me they liked the single tube type better, but it wasn't there. In that post, we spent most of the time talking about F/Z power regulators and came to the conclusion they are different from the readily available Mustang ones. And, since factory Fairmont/Zephyr two door power regulators (stock stuff: the way I usually like to do things) only exist in myth and legend, here we are.

    Obviously it would be easier for me to get the same type again and simply slap the new parts in though. I think the reason it broke was ever since I swapped in the new bushings last year, I didn't take the time to adjust the window so it's smooth and straight, up and down. I tried, but failed. In case you're wondering, it's hard.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  3. #3

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    Following. I'd like to add power windows to my truck.

    Jess.
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  4. #4

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    After having ordered new 2 tube type ones, I found out my driver's side one is similarly broken too, although it still works. I think I'm going to have to secure the tubes in a way that will hold them in a more rounded shape.

    I'm starting to really think the single tube type would hold up better. The tubes themselves look pretty stout. I'll bet the can't bend as far though, so I'd probably have to start from scratch if I buy some for myself. At least these things are cheap enough that you can do some trial and error and not be out that much.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  5. #5
    FEP User
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    Oct 2017
    Location
    south-central WY
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    66

    Default

    Just spitballin' here. Your idea of anchoring the tube in the middle of the sharpest bend is a good idea. You could also slit a piece of heavy rubber hose and clamp it around the tube where that bend occurs, even reinforcing the shape of curve with a peice of curved metal clamped with hose clamps.

    If you had the spare time, you could experiment with the broken tube by straighting the kinked tube a bit, reinforcing the broken area, rebending it and then anchoring it.

  6. #6

    Default

    What am I missing here? Is there just no head available for a regulator that replaces the hand crank? That’s pretty much how power windows are setup on the Mustangs.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    What am I missing here? Is there just no head available for a regulator that replaces the hand crank? That’s pretty much how power windows are setup on the Mustangs.
    That's the way this works. It attaches to the splined shaft the crank mounts to. If there's a way to replace that whole gear the shaft is attached to, I'm not aware of it.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by darkd0r View Post
    Just spitballin' here. Your idea of anchoring the tube in the middle of the sharpest bend is a good idea. You could also slit a piece of heavy rubber hose and clamp it around the tube where that bend occurs, even reinforcing the shape of curve with a peice of curved metal clamped with hose clamps.

    If you had the spare time, you could experiment with the broken tube by straighting the kinked tube a bit, reinforcing the broken area, rebending it and then anchoring it.
    Good ideas to further strengthen the tube!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  9. #9

    Default

    Alright, well I've fought with this thing for hours and gotten pretty much nowhere. I installed the new kit on the passenger side, and despite the fact that I fiddled with the mounting points a LOT to get the chain housing into a nice, rounded shape, AND adjusted the window itself so that it goes up and down nice and smooth with a crank... the motor/kit STILL struggles to get the window up and down. It sounds as bad as it ever has. So, i guess I give up. Now we wait for the next time it breaks. Which it WILL.



    As for the driver's side, i had intended to install the new kit on that side too, since that housing is broken.



    But, I thought the better of it. It's still perfectly happy to raise and lower the window. If I mess with it, I COULD and likely WOULD make it worse. So, I raised my hands and backed slowly away from that one. Just a matter of time before this one breaks too. Pretty damn frustrating.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    SE Michigan
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    3,487

    Default

    Yah too bad its not working out.
    Many times wished had power window on pass side only.
    People wanting to talk at red light, caught in rain on xway.
    Cracked console badly from leaning on it to reach over there.
    Powered with crank backup would be ideal to me. Console controls.

    Have successfully raised and lowered door window with a cordless screwdriver.
    A remote motor box on the crank regulator spline would work fine for me.

    Kind of pricey but...ttps://www.electric-life.com/product/45823-crank-switch/

    Do the Red Green mod:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uG6grzdUf8

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
    Posts
    2,898

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    Use thick wall emission tube split with a craft knife, and insert it, and then clamp it with two or three Jubilee clips where its broken. The Shores A softness of emission grade pipe will allow it to have its form held without making it overload the internal chain.

  12. #12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Yah too bad its not working out.
    Many times wished had power window on pass side only.
    People wanting to talk at red light, caught in rain on xway.
    Cracked console badly from leaning on it to reach over there.
    Powered with crank backup would be ideal to me. Console controls.

    Have successfully raised and lowered door window with a cordless screwdriver.
    A remote motor box on the crank regulator spline would work fine for me.

    Kind of pricey but...ttps://www.electric-life.com/product/45823-crank-switch/

    Do the Red Green mod:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uG6grzdUf8
    Yeah, exactly. If I want power ANYWHERE, I want it on the passenger side, dammit. I was caught in the rain once on the freeway and had to pull off in the ghetto to roll that window up.

    But, I suppose I can still reinforce the chain housing like you guys say and maybe keep the ones I have operating, even if it's not well.

    I've been wanting to look at getting factory power regulators again like I was when I first made this plan.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...wer-Window-Kit

    Of course, like I said they only exist in myth and legend. I wonder if I can modify a 4-door power regulator with the main arm from my 2-door ones. We need to get RED78 up in here. I'll bet he knows.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    SE Michigan
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    Default

    Yah i have no ac. Hot day, windows down. Starts to rain. Roll window up. Rain stops mile down the road.
    Plenty of times waiting at red light, someone asks "what year?". Then light greens just then.
    Someday people will ask what that crank is for. Am ready. Heck, it starts the car.
    Never owned a power window car. Even my 85 LTD LX had cranks but power 6 way seats and locks.

    At the upick yards here, power regulators are 25.00. May try one just for kicks.
    Never did like having to turn key to operate windows with car off or the fact if they fail window is stuck.
    Guess its the rare car in pond trapped driver reports on the news.

    Auto companies changed the horizontal factory window switches on armrests.
    Dogs stuck head out open window, paw pushed on switch, window went up.
    Now window switches have to be pulled up with finger to raise window.
    Found that out driving niece's '15 Challenger. Could not figure out how to raise window.
    Her dad in pass seat (GM body engineer) explained why.
    Last edited by gr79; 08-15-2018 at 03:33 PM.

  14. #14

    Default

    one time my power window failed on my '89 Mustang in the winter when I was warming up the car in the shop. Got to drive the car home with the window down.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  15. #15

    Default

    Brad, In the other thread, you said you would measure your 2-door sedan regulator. Either I missed this, or you did not tell what the measurement is.
    I bet the measurement falls somewhere in between the coupe's and the 4-doors. You would have to shorten one from a Mustang to the length you need.
    Or do what you said and Frankenstein a 2-door manual onto a 4-door power. Also, to have power windows on the 4-door, you had to have vent windows.
    Might be why the arm is bent on the coupe. Had to have room for the glass to clear the motor. So look and see if yours are bent or straight. The coupe's are bent, but the 4-doors are straight. I do not know what the Mustangs are. Some one that is skilled at welding can make an arm that would work.
    Lots of FREE F/Z info on my site.
    http://myzephyrs.com

  16. #16

    Default

    Sorry, I never did measure it. I'm fairly sure coupes use the same door panels as 2 door sedans. You think their doors are longer? That would complicate things.

    I actually did end up finding real, actual 2-door electric regulators after I emailed you. I still can't believe it! I'll still measure mine and the power ones and let you know. And take lots of pictures. Thanks for the expert input!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

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