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  1. #26
    FEP Power Member smitty54's Avatar
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    Run away from that shop. My body shop initially charged me $150 to do the stripe. After one year, it started to look a little blotchy. They resprayed it a second time for free. This was satin black and a year ago. Still looks great.
    "Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone driving faster than you is a maniac."
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    84 GT Convertible
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  2. #27

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    For this paint job to not even last one summer, I would be all over them to cover their choice of finish & the rust repair. $600 to strip that off & redo the stripe is the "I don't want to do it" price. If you just paid them to paint the car last year, this is absurd for a business to charge you that much for what should be some sort of warranty work on a car you probably aren't driving in last years NY winter. Now, in fairness I could see a body shop charging $400-$500 for a sand down, epoxy/seal, base coat, flattened clear to redo the stripe provided this was Never in their shop before.

    What did they charge you for the re-paint in the first place? Did they give you options the first time around, or was everything at their suggestions of how to repaint the car.

    Stripe paint failure aside, The bigger picture sounds like a bad deal. Do you mind sharing specifics & costs of what was originally done?

    Do you have any pictures of this rusted area before & after the failure came back?

  3. #28
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1983-GT View Post
    For this paint job to not even last one summer, I would be all over them to cover their choice of finish & the rust repair. $600 to strip that off & redo the stripe is the "I don't want to do it" price. If you just paid them to paint the car last year, this is absurd for a business to charge you that much for what should be some sort of warranty work on a car you probably aren't driving in last years NY winter. Now, in fairness I could see a body shop charging $400-$500 for a sand down, epoxy/seal, base coat, flattened clear to redo the stripe provided this was Never in their shop before.

    What did they charge you for the re-paint in the first place? Did they give you options the first time around, or was everything at their suggestions of how to repaint the car.

    Stripe paint failure aside, The bigger picture sounds like a bad deal. Do you mind sharing specifics & costs of what was originally done?

    Do you have any pictures of this rusted area before & after the failure came back?
    the deal I had with them last year was to do a resto job. They pulled the fenders to repair cracks in the frame. Stripped the hood to bare metal, stripped a large portion of the nose and doors. Stripped the front bumper cover to bare plastic. Did body work, fixed ripples, straightened the lines. Primed, painted BC/CC painted all the trim including the front grille, headlight buckets and hood stripe satin black.

    Total cost was $4500. They gave me this price because the shop was slow and they wanted work to keep busy.

    The hood stripe was a quickie "repair". They didn't charge me because they didn't do the whole stripe. They didn't address the rust spots in the trunk channel. They "fixed" the rust around the trunk hinges with a detail brush or a Q tip. I know I didn't pay a lot for the work they did but the fact that they did all the body work nice but skimped on the finishing is just asinine. I have had 3 go backs since picking up the car last September. And it was garaged from October till May over the winter so its only been exposed to the outside for about 4 months.

    Now I have to find another body shop that will redo this stripe with a BC/CC in matte or satin for less than 600.

  4. #29
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    There really aren't that many people out there that I trust to touch a darn thing on my cars. Some of them are a very long ways away, so when I need something I load the car up and take it to them. It's just the way it goes sometimes.

  5. #30
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I would take the car into the shop and ask the manager to explain how a fiberglass hood RUSTS!?

    I would also like to understand what D#MN difference the hood being fiberglass or metal has to do with the hood stripe? Crappy work is crappy work.

    Heck if painting fiberglass over steel allows the shop to not stand behind their work and turn out crap, then I am really stupid for putting some much time and effort into Erratic50's Saleen clone and all the fiberglass parts for that car.
    Last edited by wraithracing; 08-06-2018 at 05:19 PM. Reason: Spelling
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
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    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
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  6. #31
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I missed your post about the price and the work done. In defense of the shop, I will admit that $4500 is CHEAP for that kind of work. With that said, they set they price and agreed to do the work and should stand behind their work.

    If doing the hood correctly was above and beyond the original estimate or agreed upon price they should have told you that and negotiated the additional costs. That is a much better option IMHO then half a$$ing the work.

    At this point, my .02 for what its worth, the best option is to probably pay another shop to do the hood stripe correctly and be done with it. Hopefully you can find one that will do it for a reasonable cost and within your budget. I will warn you that I personally hate doing repair work on other shops screw ups. You never really know how bad it is until you get into it, so almost always you have to estimate it as the worst possible case which means a higher price to the customer.

    Just as an example we had a similar issue with Erratic50's Saleen rear wing. Even after multiple coats of high build primer and couple coats of sealer, we still had a reaction due to the paint by the previous owner. We finally had to clear coat the wing to stop the reaction before we could actually spray the wing in color. Those are the sort of things you never can predict beforehand. Thankfully that is the only part that we had the issue with, but still it was very annoying and cost us extra time and materials to correct. Best of Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #32
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Forgive my ignorance here, but why are people painting these stripes instead of applying a decal as they did from the factory?

    From the sound of it, I'd pay the $150 to have them strip it and then have the other place do the decal.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85stanggt View Post
    Forgive my ignorance here, but why are people painting these stripes instead of applying a decal as they did from the factory?

    From the sound of it, I'd pay the $150 to have them strip it and then have the other place do the decal.
    The 83/84 hood black was never a decal. That started in 85. The 83/84 GT hood black out did have a decal which covered the paint line. That decal is available.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
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  9. #34
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    I ended up with the body shop redoing the hood stripe after I complained more about it.

    I'm not sure how I feel about this result as I now have a mismatched color/sheen between the hood stripe and the front grille, windshield cowl and headlight buckets.

    Also they clear coated it so now there's an orange peel look I'm not thrilled with. Can clear be wet sanded or will that ruin it?

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  10. #35

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    Wet sanding will make it shinier but the answer to your question is 100% yes, it can be wet sanded. I believe you totally but in the pictures I can't detect a difference in sheen but I totally know what you mean, I just can't see it in these pictures.

  11. #36
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Wet sanding will make it shinier but the answer to your question is 100% yes, it can be wet sanded. I believe you totally but in the pictures I can't detect a difference in sheen but I totally know what you mean, I just can't see it in these pictures.
    I was also wondering what it would look like if I did the grille, headlight buckets and the windshield cowl with rattle can flat clear? I'd like to even out the sheen on the entire nose.

  12. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by kfxmatt View Post
    I was working on it.sorry.yes I used the template.sorry I see its a 84.
    Looks great! I have the decal for my 85 sitting in a box here in my office. I was considering using that but I have a cowl induction hood so I'm thinking that the decal will be too short. if I line it up where it should be down at the front of the hood, I won't cover the top part of my cowl. Been thinking about painting mine. Is the template you used available online by chance? Thanks!

  13. #38
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    The cars were not the image of perfection when they were new. The stripe and the area by the wipers didn't quite match even when new on the cars I saw if memory serves me correctly. 1984 and new..... wow, there's one I haven't thought about in a while......

    I'd leave it alone and enjoy the car. And stop pointing it out, or even looking at it like that......

    Heck -- on my 1986GT I painted absolutely everything gloss black base/clear because that's what I liked in 1992. Gave it a unique style that you still don't see even today. Its likely mine may get done again exactly like I've always had it next time I repaint it too. undecided.

  14. #39
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Congrats, I think it looks much, much better than what you posted on the first page.
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  15. #40
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Looks great! They did a much better job this time.

    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    The 83/84 hood black was never a decal. That started in 85. The 83/84 GT hood black out did have a decal which covered the paint line. That decal is available.
    This I did not know. Very interesting.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

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