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  1. #26
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
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    May 2009
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    Portland Oregon
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    Thanks all, just to update. I replaced a some of the O-rings with my generic kit. I didn't do them all and I did not do the Schrader valves. I had 7 cans of R12 at my moms house so I charged the system. Cools at around 38-42 degrees. The issue I am having now is with the compressor clutch. At first it would not engage at all. I had power at the plug when I jumped the low pressure switch but no clutch engagement. I whacked it with a 2x4 and it engaged. After I charged it, I took the clutch apart and cleaned it and then I cycled it on and off using the battery and some wire. It seemed to engage and disengage after that. Now when driving, it tends to disengage randomly. Sometimes after 5 min. Sometimes after 30 min. Random......Whacking it with a 2x4 makes it work again. Obviously something is wrong with the clutch. I might try and clean it again before I replace it. This time I will take the pulley off. It can't hurt as it is just my time.

    In the mean time. I have ordered an o-ring kit as I think I may have a leak in one of the connections I messed with When I repaired my air pump, I noticed that the AC lines were a little oily near the air filter box (the ones erratic warned me about). I cleaned them off but have not had a chance to look at the connections again.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  2. #27
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Dec 2016
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    I had to replace my compressor clutch on my 86 at about 350K miles. Autozone carried the kit, just needed a snapping Pilar and a few other basic tools. No bid deal.

    with Stock pulleys and stock pressure switch and stock compressor and AC system and 0.68:1 OD and 2.73:1 rear gear and 235/60/15 once I pounded the compressor to kick the clutch in I could drive easy at anything under 1850 RPM .... so around 75 ... all day without the AC kicking back off.

    Exceed 1850 for more than a moment and the pressure goes up and the clutch kicks off. Then it won’t re-engage without a beating again.

    That was my experience


    i converted to R134a with a conversion compatible oil 20+ years ago and I’ve never looked back. I did not bother to change out the pressure switch because the system blew 42 degree on a 95 degree day with the lower pressure R12 switch.

    Condensers and evaporator for Fox R12 vs R134 are the same. The only change is the pressure switch. Keep in mind higher pressure is harder on compressor clutches.

    The rubber line on my 86 finally went a few years ago and the compressor is absolutely shot after all the miles

    For what it’s worth my wife’s 89 ragtop was converted and my son’s 86 ragtop is converted the exact same way ... with the same great results. It will freeze you out of the car. Especially if the windows are tinted.

    All being said, my 85 Saleen build is being built with an entire set of new parts and it’s going R12 for now.

  3. #28
    FEP Super Member
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    May 2003
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    Roseburg Oregon
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    3,308

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    When you remove the clutch , there should be a shim , washer if you like .
    There is an airgap that is like .017 or something .
    I forget .
    All fords are the same .
    You measure the gap without energizing the clutch .
    Pull the bolt out , and get a washer that gets you to the proper gap , and the clutch will engage , and stay engaged .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  4. #29
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Dec 2016
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    Nebraska
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    here is a picture of the springlock clamps I was talking about. NAPA calls them a "spinglock repair kit".

    They will make the O-rings on the condenser last many orders of magnitude longer. Most foxes puked all of their refrigerant by around 80K miles. I went around 275K miles and mine were still holding when the rubber hose finally deteriorated enough to leak.

    If memory serves me correctly, they require two different sizes. I can't remember for sure what sizes are anymore, but they correspond to the size of the O-ring needed for the spring fitting so the parts guy at the counter should be able to figure it out. (hey -- if they can't they don't belong there)

    You can install them at any time. They aren't hard to put in either.
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    Last edited by erratic50; 08-04-2018 at 12:19 PM.

  5. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tigger View Post
    Thanks all, just to update. I replaced a some of the O-rings with my generic kit. I didn't do them all and I did not do the Schrader valves. I had 7 cans of R12 at my moms house so I charged the system. Cools at around 38-42 degrees. The issue I am having now is with the compressor clutch. At first it would not engage at all. I had power at the plug when I jumped the low pressure switch but no clutch engagement. I whacked it with a 2x4 and it engaged. After I charged it, I took the clutch apart and cleaned it and then I cycled it on and off using the battery and some wire. It seemed to engage and disengage after that. Now when driving, it tends to disengage randomly. Sometimes after 5 min. Sometimes after 30 min. Random......Whacking it with a 2x4 makes it work again. Obviously something is wrong with the clutch. I might try and clean it again before I replace it. This time I will take the pulley off. It can't hurt as it is just my time.

    In the mean time. I have ordered an o-ring kit as I think I may have a leak in one of the connections I messed with When I repaired my air pump, I noticed that the AC lines were a little oily near the air filter box (the ones erratic warned me about). I cleaned them off but have not had a chance to look at the connections again.
    What are your gauges reading when it disengages? It may be cycling based on head pressure etc. I'd make sure to put some gauges on and note the temp at the vent vs Hi side & low Side pressures. under some conditions, it may not be necessary for the clutch to be engaged to continue cooling. OR the clutch may be cycling off due to High head pressure or low pressure.

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