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  1. #1

    Default Rear Drum getting way too hot... Possible Causes?

    I recently had to do axle bearings, and rebuilt the drums while I was inside. Brakes work a lot better now because the old pads were covered in gear oil! But I cannot figure out why my passenger side drum is getting so hot that you cannot touch it.
    I have adjusted them correctly, even backing the adjuster almost all the way down. Both brakes work perfectly fine, and neither one grabs if you spin it. Each was bled until getting lots of fluid. Neither drum was replaced or turned, but the car has 30k orig miles and they looked brand new.
    The only problem I had with the whole thing was adjusting the e brake. After I put the brakes together, I adjusted the e brake cable to be way too tight, because it turns out that the passenger side (the one getting hot) bracket had come unclipped and was just bouncing around. Last night I was able to put that all back together but the e brake was at first so tight that a drum wouldn't fit (not engaged). After backing off the e brake a noticeable amount everything went back together perfect. Took it for a test drive with the adjuster where it just catches the drum and then again lower than it should be and its still getting super hot.

    I'm lost with where else to go so any tips would be nice. I originally thought the drivers brake wasn't working at all, or the pass was locked up. However they both seem to operate just fine and don't squeal or have any weird wear patterns.

  2. #2
    FEP Member James2488's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vertlyfe View Post
    I recently had to do axle bearings, and rebuilt the drums while I was inside. Brakes work a lot better now because the old pads were covered in gear oil! But I cannot figure out why my passenger side drum is getting so hot that you cannot touch it.
    I have adjusted them correctly, even backing the adjuster almost all the way down. Both brakes work perfectly fine, and neither one grabs if you spin it. Each was bled until getting lots of fluid. Neither drum was replaced or turned, but the car has 30k orig miles and they looked brand new.
    The only problem I had with the whole thing was adjusting the e brake. After I put the brakes together, I adjusted the e brake cable to be way too tight, because it turns out that the passenger side (the one getting hot) bracket had come unclipped and was just bouncing around. Last night I was able to put that all back together but the e brake was at first so tight that a drum wouldn't fit (not engaged). After backing off the e brake a noticeable amount everything went back together perfect. Took it for a test drive with the adjuster where it just catches the drum and then again lower than it should be and its still getting super hot.

    I'm lost with where else to go so any tips would be nice. I originally thought the drivers brake wasn't working at all, or the pass was locked up. However they both seem to operate just fine and don't squeal or have any weird wear patterns.
    Did you purchase new drum(s)?
    2015 F350 6.7 CCLB Platinum
    2008 Taurus 3.5
    1997 F250 7.3 RCLB ZF5
    1985 Mustang GT T-tops 5.0/T5
    1968 Pontiac LeMans 400/ST-300

  3. #3

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    Is the parking brake cable on the passenger side free? It could be dragging. I would disconnect both ends and check for smooth movement of the cable in the sheath.
    Also I have seen a parking brake apply as the suspension moves up and down, but that was not on a mustang, but it could be a possibility depending on the cable routing.
    Mike
    85 GT - owned since 87

  4. #4
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    He said he reused the OE drums without having them turned.

    Did you (Vertlyfe) replace the wheel cylinders?

    I would back the passenger side adjuster way off and see if still gets hot. I would hate to think the heat is coming from a bad brand new bearing.

    Be ready to handle any pull to driver side if you do back the passenger side adjuster very far off as I suggested.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by darkd0r View Post
    He said he reused the OE drums without having them turned.

    Did you (Vertlyfe) replace the wheel cylinders?

    I would back the passenger side adjuster way off and see if still gets hot. I would hate to think the heat is coming from a bad brand new bearing.

    Be ready to handle any pull to driver side if you do back the passenger side adjuster very far off as I suggested.
    I did replace everything except for the drums, just sanded them a little nothing major. They looked very nice. And I have backed the adjuster that far out. I haven't thought of the bearing being a problem until you mentioned that. I replaced both bearings but knew if there was one that had a problem it would be the pass side....

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by JKengineering View Post
    Is the parking brake cable on the passenger side free? It could be dragging. I would disconnect both ends and check for smooth movement of the cable in the sheath.
    Also I have seen a parking brake apply as the suspension moves up and down, but that was not on a mustang, but it could be a possibility depending on the cable routing.
    Mike
    I had the problem even when the e brake was not connected unfortunately... as I stated the bracket for e brake had fallen off and was flopping inside drum.

  7. #7
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    Did you get the left and right adjusters mixed up? Sounds like it’s adjusting up too tight. Maybe things are moving and the ebrake cable is getting pulled
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